motorman7

Put the rear suspension in this evening. Borrowed a couple tires for the rear. Two more Bridgestones will be here on Saturday, so this is temporary. Lighting is funny as always. The undercoat looks gray. It is actually flat black.

Your right, I should have kept it and left it on the car. Unfortunately, I sold the car late last year and now the beautiful NOS knob is gone. ☹️

I agree with you on the shift map. Bought one and was disappointed, so I ended up re-selling it for a bit of a loss. I ended up buying an NOS one for almost 3 times the price, which looked absolutely gorgeous. But then, the problem I had is that it looked so nice that I didn't want to touch it and cause any wear. Had to shift by just using the stick. ? Oh well

I am running an electrical and a Nikki mechanical fuel pump on my Yellow 1971 Z. I have the electrical on a switch and typically just use it for when I start the car, otherwise I run it on just the mechanical. I use the electrical because I park my Z on a hill and don't drive it very often. Takes forever for the mechanical to get the gas into the carbs when the car sits for so long. With the electrical, I flip the switch, wait a couple seconds, then start the car. Works like a charm.

I'm looking forward to following your progress on this. Will help out with info when I can...Enjoy!!

I used this stuff one the engine bay plate. I like this stuff a lot and use it on the rain gutter trim and similar items.

Sorry, just one more post. Here are my roadster before and after pics.

Actually it was the 2000 that had the timing chain problem. The 1600 motor is overhead valve and if I am not mistaken, the crank is geared to the cam 2:1. 5 speeds came on the 1967.5 and on 2000, never with the 1600. Also the 1967.5 2000 roadster is the Holy Grail of roadsters, very pricey.

Congrats! That is totally awesome. I have to be honest here, I actually like driving my 1600 Roadster more than any of my Z's. I think mostly because it is a convertible. The roadster are also pretty peppy and quite nimble, great cars. And, the women love them! Whenever I bring my roadster to a car show, the ladies are always checking out the roadster. Who cares about that original low serial number Z when that cute little roadster is right there. Oh, and that original gas cap is pretty pricey....keep and eye on that thing.

Got those from Harbor Freight for $48 after the 20% discount with coupon ?. They had cheaper ones, but these ones had the wheel locks which I preferred.

Put most of the front suspension in, except for the sway bar bushings. Also put in some of the other attaching hardware. Here are some pics. Pics look a little better with the natural light. May try and get the rear suspension in tomorrow.

Got my parts shipment in from Zcardepot. Firewall insulator, glove box, emblems, spindle pins and lots of small rubber parts. It's the little details that make everything look great. Still having a hard time getting the pics to come out well. I have to use the flash, otherwise all I get is reflection.

Got two of the Bridgestones mounted, 175/80R14's. That's pretty hard to find.

Never thought of that. (not sure if I've ever seen that) Would only be an issue for the back side. Maybe I'll hit it with some gloss clear just in case. Wouldn't hurt and would actually make it easier to clean Sent from my C6902 using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Technique is pretty old school. No vapor blasting here. For the Back side which was pretty caked, I attached an old wire wheel from my bench grinder to my Makita angle grinder. It worked great. Plenty of power and RPM's. It cut through the corrosion pretty quick without eating up the aluminum. Then I Used my cordless drill with the little conical wire brush attachment and got the crevices. For the front, I used small wire wheels on the slots. Then I used sandpaper, then polishing compound, then Mothers Power Ball to finish out. I used 220 grit on the road rash that was on the lip. Otherwise it takes forever to smooth things out. Then I used 500, then 1000, then 1500 grit on the entire front of the rim. I sanded mostly in a radial direction. Then used the Dark Gray polishing compound with polishing wheel attached to my $18 Harbor Freight 3000 RPM corded drill. After that I went over it again with the finer white polishing compound. After that I used the Mothers power ball along with the Mothers polish and then wiped clean. It takes about 2 hours per wheel going through the whole process. Also use the sandpaper and polish on the slots. So, that's it.

Cleaning and polishing the aluminum mags now. The back side was pretty corroded. Cleaned it up a bit before taking to Discount Tire to have the old tires removed. With the tires removed, I will start polishing these up.

True. And as @jayhawk noted above, sounds like some re-builders don't see the filter as necessary.

I am pretty impressed that you have two 'reasonable' looking filters here. Of the 6 carbs that I had at my disposal, 4 of the filters were completely disintegrated. And, I think your two are better than mine. It will probably be about a month before I put the carbs on so I have a little time to piece something together before then. Below are pics of the SST 60, 80 and 150 mesh. The 150 mesh appears to be more like the brass mesh size. The 80 mesh (in the middle) is actually pretty nice because it has reasonably small holes and is still somewhat stiff. The 150 mesh has opening size of .0041" while the 80 mesh is .006", 50 mesh is .011".

These are probably pretty close. Made these at my desk at work. Also, looks like stainless steel would work well in a gasoline environment. http://hayata.com/stainless-steel-chemical-resistance-chart-f-l/

Painted the engine bay front panels satin black. Also installed a few more parts; coil bracket & hood prop (Just a side note: with fresh paint, pretty much all holes need to be re-tapped before installing screws, otherwise they don't go in very well ?). Polished up and installed the trim that goes on the rain gutters. Also cleaned up the spare and set it in it's compartment. @Captain Obvious you were right about the filter being too long. I set it in the carb and it is pretty close to the threads as you can kind of see in the picture. Looks like I will need to find a different method.

So here is a side-by-side pic of the Original Carb filter and the Injector filter sent by @grannyknot. Looks like this may work if the injector filter is not too long (I guess I could file some to make it fit lengthwise if needed). From the carb design, it looks like the open end of the Carb filter is 'capped' by the bolt that holds it in place. Since that is the case, looks like the closed end of the injector filter will be OK as is. It's actually a nice design for filter replacement since you just remove the short bolt on the side of the carb to access the filter. I checked the filters in some of the other carbs and they were pretty much completely disintegrated. I guess that happens with age. I know, the challenges that we here in San Diego face with our weather is tough. If its not 80 degrees and sunny, we have a hard time with things. I think there has been a run on jackets at Costco...and I have to wear socks.

Yes, saw your car there last week. Looks like a great project. Second lowest Z VIN I have seen in person. I think HLS30-000222 is the lowest that I have seen personally.

Thanks for the link. @grannyknotis sending me some injector filters that look very close to the correct size. Will show side by side pics with the original filters when they come in.

The stuff I just bought and do not like is the Rust-oleum brand. It did not 'crinkle-up' well at all. It went on almost like thick paint. I had to double check the label to make sure I grabbed the right stuff. Might have been because it is a bit cold and damp here in San Diego, but it just did not come out well. I tried the new brand because it was a package deal on Amazon with free delivery. I will go back to the dupli-color brand which I have used on all the previous vehicles. The texture is much more consistent. Of course, now I need to cover up the parts that have been installed.

Yes, I had the original fuel lines replated. I had to bend the long tubes into thirds to fit in the 48" plating tank. I put a large radius bend in two locations, approximately thirds, to prevent the tubes from kinking. I bent them back after they came back from plating. The bend locations are in the tunnel so not highly visible. I stuck with the black because that is what the car was originally. I tried a different brand of undercoat, but am not very happy with it. It is not producing consistent texture. Will go back to my old brand and redo most of the areas. Sent from my C6902 using Classic Zcar Club mobile