emccallum

I know it will turn out great and you will be proud of it. That is the real reason we do it. Like a lot of other hobbies, you shouldn't do a cost analysis. I throw all my receipts in a box for the next guy to add up!

I am getting ready to start putting the car together. Do you think it would be easier to install the hatch glass with the hatch on the car or on a table? I am thinking it would be easier with the hatch mounted on the car.

It was a raptor liner kit, then sprayed silver over it. I used it under the fenders and inside the doors. I had one or two small places that we missed with the Raptor liner. I touched them up with some regular undercoat. In those areas the silver did not react well and left a yellow tint. I guess it is was the oil in the undercoating. The raptor liner is made to be able to overcoat with color. Your car is looking great! Mine should be finished this week from paint. I am trying hard to keep up to your standards, but you are setting a really high bar!!

Thanks for sharing! I didn't know that was available.

Yeah, that looks a lot like my garage during disassembly!🤣 Does he wash his hands between every bolt removal? Looks like a nice car to be restoring.

Having some brake issues. Everything new and bled but still had poor pedal. Discovered a difference in the pushrod length between OEM master and aftermarket. I couldn't get the rod to adjust, so I added a shim. That gave me a good pedal, but very hard. I am going to need to rebuild/replace the booster. 1972 7" style booster. Does anyone have any experience with Harman classic brake service? I can get a full rebuild kit for $135 or send it to them and have them rebuild it for $245. Any other thoughts? I would prefer to keep the original style. Motorsport has an exchange service. Just wondering what others have done. Thanks.

Thanks guys. Fingers crossed. I still have a ton of work to do. Yarb, valve lash is set per specs. I don't know why it sounds so loud in the video. Much quieter in person.

I finally got the motor back and installed. Ran it for the first time today. Fingers crossed it seems ok, slight hint of smoke when revving, but nothing like before. I haven't had a chance to do any fine tuning. Just happy its back together and not creating a smoke screen. We replaced the rings with a new set (Hastings). Best he can figure is the oil rings were poor quality and weren't scraping the oil. He didn't like the way they felt or looked. I am really good at removing and installing the engine. Pro tips.... Leave engine mounts loose on motor. Have a good load leveler on the hoist. I rigged mine so I could use a 3/8 impact on it, instead of the handle. 20230611_205016.mp4

I think raptor liner and 3M body Shutz are basically the same. To me the advantage to Raptor is the kit comes with its own sprayer that hooks to an air line.

I did raptor liner with body color over it. I am really happy with how it turned out. Maybe one day the other side will get paint!

Still waiting to get the motor back together. Hopefully next week.

To answer your question....No, I have never heard of anyone advising over filling the rear diff. 😁

Are the prices the same on Ebay? I would think they would charge more on Ebay as Ebay has pretty high fees.

Ordered several things yesterday from Zcardepot. Shortly after I ordered I remembered I needed a gasket. I sent them an email last night. This morning I got a notice that the order had shipped. I thought, oh well, I guess they didnt get my email. A couple of hours later I get an email saying "Here's an invoice for the gasket, just pay it and will will drop in the box, we are holding the shipment for you". Hard to beat that kind of attention.

Ca Datsun is where the engine parts came from.

I dont have any pictures but I just got off the phone with the engine guy. He said oil rings were collapsed. He said they were total garbage. He said the compression rings were already showing wear that he didnt like. I sure wish I knew the name of the rings we used. I wish I would of had a recording of him when I asked if they were in right side up! I got an earful. It looks like its going to work out. I will keep the gang posted.

No news yet on the motor. However, the hits just keep coming. I had the heater core pressure tested before I put it all back together. Guess what? Yep, it is just barely dripping. I cant decide if the car should be named Christine or Murphy.

So you were taking pictures while I was doing all the wrenching?? Just kidding, I really appreciate Charles driving down and helping me get the motor out. It's really nice working with someone that knows Z's. We had the motor out and torn down in about an hour. Motor is loaded in the truck and headed to the builder in the morning. I will post up what what we find. Good day.

I have a box of old jacks. Most arent in great condition, but I will check and see if I have anything close to 6/71.

FWIW, when I replaced the valve seals (which were fine) I used compressed air to hold the valves in place. On several cylinders I could hear air escaping somewhere at a pretty good rate. It wasnt coming up through the valves. I couldn't feel it through the dipstick but I didnt close off the PCV hose, so it may have been coming through there. At that point I knew swapping seals was a waste and the motor needed to come out. Pretty sure the issue is going to be rings, but I will know for sure pretty soon. Thanks for all the comments and support. @Patcon has offered to drive down and help me pull the motor. Great group here.

Thanks, I am past that. I leaned it out until it was starving for fuel with the carb floats and mixture. Zero change in smoke. The smoke is even more impressive in person.

I had just started it up and had it idled up to check fuel pressure at different rpms. Smells of oil

Good points. PCV is clear, and oil was 5qts and to the full mark. Like a dumb*ss I threw away the old rings and boxes, so I dont know what they were. I bought rings, rod/crank bearings. No pistons or head stuff. Spoke the the engine guy at length today. He did some homework on the SU's and asked me to check the fuel pressure. 2psi. He said pull the motor. I checked the dipstick for any fuel and noticed its about a qt low. I think the missing quart is all over my shop and concrete! I will post up what I find. May pull it on Friday if I can find a spotter. Bad video attached.Enjoy my pain 🙂 20230424_181138.mp4

all look black. None of them look good.

Its a tough situation. The builder has been a family friend for many years. He has rebuilt numerous motors (BMW, toyota, Ford, Z's) for me over the years. I had a problem with a 351 (marine motor) he built and he gladly tore it back down and we discovered the problem was me. I installed a different flex plate from the original and it took up all the crank end play. He is laser focused on the fuel and assures me the bottom end is fine. He admits he doesnt know SU carbs and says that everyone he knew that messed with them are dead. It is hard for me to question someone with way more experience than me, especially someone that has bailed me out more than a few times. I think when I get him back over and he sees it run, he may change his tune. At the time I ordered the parts for the rebuild, it was hard to get stuff due to the supply chain issues. I wont mention where I got some stuff as they are not the most popular vendor on here! Who knows, its all speculation until we look inside. It will work out, just not sure exactly how right now!