emccallum

See the fuel line on the bottom? Push that part up to make sure its seated. Pull the choke lever back and forth and watch them open and then close. Make sure they arent getting hung up. I think you said these were ztherapy, so they should be pretty good. I second the others on ignition.

you can check the cables, but make 100% sure the choke lever on the bottom of the carb is not stuck on.

I use a wire at work called Elgiloy that is easy to bend, then becomes resilient when heat treated. I think different wires react differently when heated, so you would need to know what you have. Wire that I use for tiny springs, are heat treated. They require patience to bend as they are brittle and can only be bent one time.

.016 diameter wire? That is pretty small. I have plenty of 016 wire in various SS grades. If Cody is coming my way anytime soon send one with him and I bend one or mail you some wire.

When I did a 5 spd swap on a 70 model (4spd car) I had to trim the trans tunnel and the console a little. I also did an r200 rear end and recall having to swap the mustache bar and had some issue getting the proper driveshaft. Thats one reason all those mounts and driveshaft stuff was in that parts car you got. Do you think the position of your rear end is making a difference in the sway bar? Would an offset rear mustache bar help? Others would know better but I think the early cars were set up with the rear end forward a bit. Just throwing that out there.

I think the metal (on the trans tunnel) is dimpled and marked to cut out the area for a manual. Peel back the insulation and look closely. That trim ring looks right and its held in with phillips sheet metal screws. You are getting there!

That is a problem with restoring a car. It may look great to others, but you know every flaw and its hard to unsee them! There arent a lot of people out there that can completely tear down and rebuild an entire car. Dont sweat the small stuff it looks great and you will have more fun with it out of the shop than collecting dust worried about a mismatching body panel!! At least thats what I told myself 🙂

I typically bleed a clutch like this. Should be able to do this on the ground, but i have never done it.

Wow, thanks for the detailed pictures and instructions! This was the part I couldnt figure out: " To remove the sleeve, you just have to depress one of the "wafers". Then (2) slides out of the sleeve (3). " I am going to give it another try, as mine is pretty beat up.

Were you able to rekey the hatch lock? I have a bagful of them and I couldn't figure out how to get them open without damaging. I even took some to a locksmith and he didnt feel comfortable after messing with them. If there is a link or video out there that I missed, please let me know. Thanks.

I think I would lay that harness out on a board and go through it from one end to the other. Check every connector and bulb. Once you get it laid out it isnt quite as daunting. When I got mine all back together, I was having an issue. It turned out to be one terminal on a connector at the passenger firewall was pushed out of place. I was panicked it was something deep under the dash! I have a box of gauges, and maybe a partial dash harness. Let me know if you need anything. Great progress!

If you want to make some measurements, I would be happy to check them against mine. I know where there is another pedal box that is yours 😁 When I was messing with my booster I remember there were some differences in the push rods that go into the master, but I dont recall anything on the pedal side.

You swapped from an automatic to a 3 pedal box, are there differences in the pedal boxes over the years? Maybe there were different length adjusters going from the booster to the pedal for different years or auto and manual. Silver part in the picture. Just throwing it out there.

Isnt there a stop on the pedal box that can be adjusted?

What happened to the original pedal stop? I had to add a hood hinge latch on my FJ40 restoration after it was painted. I used some 3M panel adhesive that I got from a body shop. It hasn't budged, that stuff is strong. But, I think a couple of spot welds in that area will not be noticable as the carpet covers it.....and who (besides us) lays under the dash! I had to remove my clutch master and adjust the booster rod a couple of times, as the aftemarket master was way different.

Glad you found it! You may want to consider going with a LED compatible flashers (blinker and hazard). When I put my car back together the running light fuse was getting really hot. I swapped all the bulbs and flashers to LED and it made a huge difference. Several threads on this. I think I bought everything from Amazon.

Same screws on mine as well.

What fun would it be if it worked right the first time!

Is the hinge hitting the metal piece thats on top of the rubber? I think it is supposed to be offset.

https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/nikki-fuel-pump-rebuilt-kit-for-prince-ha30-fairlady-s30-skyline-gc10-with-l20-l24-engine?variant=39616128811117 This may work, but check to be positive!

I did buy this Nikki pump from ebay, but I cant recall if I just used parts out of it or swapped the hose connections. Chances are I spent too much time and money to get an OE pump to look and work properly!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/163290448232

Just a heads up, I think I remember some posts about aftermarket mechanical fuel pumps not working because the arm wasnt hitting the eccentric. Best to see if you can find an NOS one or if you have an original rebuild kits may still be around. I wish I could remember exactly what I went through to get an OEM rebuilt, but I recall having a large ziploc of parts and pieces. My car (72) does just fine with the mechanical only. A bit long to start after sitting, but no other issues.

@kcpope, I have one. PM where to send it too.

Let me look around and see what I have.

As soon as you lay under the dash, you realize you forgot the first tool you need, or its under your back and you cant reach it. Great work!