emccallum

Long story. I installed the rear diff on my 3/72 restoration. Later I found another new diff insulator on the shelf. The one I installed was Part #55415-E4102. Seemed to fit fine. I know now this insulator is from an early 240, and I must have had it in some old parts left over from another restoration. So I swapped the E4102 with the proper insulator, as I figure someone would likely need it in the future. As I scratched my head trying to figure out why both insulators seemed to fit fine, I started digging through some really old stuff looking for a diff crossmember to compare. I didnt find one, but I found this muffler part and I cant figure out where it is from. I thought it was the muffler hanger at the diff, but it just doesnt look right. I am thinking it might be from another car. I still dont understand the diff insulator. The one I ended up installing was 55415-N4301 which seems to supersede earlier ones, but not the the E4102. Maybe i just didnt realize the E4102 didnt fit, as I had not tightened the suspension completely, and its only about 35mm different. Muffler part: Early diff insulator

A little progress this weekend, but nothing significant. I am still waiting on my carbs to come back from Ztherapy. Hopefully in a week or so.

Yes, it had some debris fall out. If nothing else I can use the system as a template to have a new one built. I will probably give it a try and see what it sounds like.

In one of our storage sheds, I found an old 1974 (early) oem exhaust. It has been in the rafters since 1975 or so. My dad bought a new 260 and in short time, swapped the carbs and exhaust. I test fit it and it fits well. I need to source a chrome tip and a couple of hangers. I am thinking of painting the rear exhaust and resonator black, but I cant decide if I should just clean the pipes up as best I can, or hit them with some silver. Or should I keep the header pipe and scrap the rest? I think it would be neat to have an original exhaust, assuming the entire inside isnt completely trashed. Any thoughts?

You could try pushing/burning the rubber out and hacksaw the sleeve, then heat and press out the sleeve. That will usually get them moving. Time consuming and you dont want to cut into the control arm. I have resorted to that a time or two.

@Patcon you have a ton more projects than me! Thanks again for the help.

I was getting ready to post that I bought a gasket (a while back) and it fit fine.

Motor/trans installed yesterday. It sure takes a lot of tipping to get it to slide in. I had a good helper and got it in without scraping the hood latch or rad support.

Pretty pleased with most of the parts I have bought from zcardepot. The stuff I wasnt pleased with, they were responsive in returning or replacing them.

Well, they mailed back my VIN tag and it looked like they guy that drilled out the rivets was having a bad day. I ended up ordering a new one from a guy on ebay that makes them. Just Dashes agreed it was not acceptable and is reimbursing me for a new VIN tag. I really dont mind when people make mistakes, as I make plenty. It's how we handle it. Just Dashes made it right, I like that.

Sorry, it's in the mail to texas

I dont think they could ship it for $68! My 20T is pretty heavy. Get the HF 20T and sell the old one, thats what I did. As others said, heat helps. https://www.trustpilot.com/review/strictlymot.com Here is where they stole the image from....scam https://perfectionindustrial.auctionserver.net/m/lot-details/index/catalog/132/lot/21978/ google images is a neat tool

Same here, I have tried to seal up everything during my restoration.

20T HF press was able to remove mine as well.

No problem, IIRC, I used a kit like this to remove those bushings. I think the kit was about $60 when I bought it a few years ago. Crazy how much stuff has gone up. Love seeing your progress. https://www.amazon.com/YUAN-Universal-Sleeve-Install-Bearings/dp/B07ML8N9X5/ref=sr_1_16?crid=1B59JLDEHYZCR&keywords=bushing+removal+kit&qid=1679261019&sprefix=%2Caps%2C150&sr=8-16&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0

If you are talking about removing the rear spindles, I have a pretty good tool that I bought many years ago. Homemade by a guy, you are more than welcome to use, just let me know.

Got this one and bead blasted it for you. Let me know if you want it. Just pay for shipping.

Crazy cool weather overnight for the last week here in SC as well. I have been covering up the blueberries! I wonder if those marks on the front strut tower are for assembly?

I have two old unusable blocks. I can try and get one out if they are in decent shape.

Thanks. Great picture, shows where the wires came out of the harness. I have looked through my pictures and dont see those wires at all. Now that I know where they came from, I can get under the dash for the 100th time, forget the flashlight, get back out, get the flashlight, and see what I can find! Maybe the buzzer was removed and I noted they were unused, and taped them off. Thanks again guys, I appreciate the help.

Thanks Bill. That is exactly what I am looking for. I cant seem to locate the wires. Not that I am dying to hook up the buzzer, just cant recall the wires. I will go back through my pictures and see if I see them. I am pretty sure the buzzer wasnt there.

My car is a 3/72 and I just reinstalled the wire harness and dash. I noticed in the manual and wiring diagram a key buzzer in the area of the pedal box. I cant find the wires that would have gone to the buzzer. Did all the 240z's have a buzzer? I just have what I believe is the flasher relay. Although, I had two wires coming out of the key switch which I would a assume would be the trigger for the buzzer. My flasher has a white wire and a green wire, as described in the wiring diagram. Buzzer is shown as Yellow and red wires. I dont think they are in my harness.

Really nice finish on the parts! I use a wire basket in my vapor blasting cabinet, works great for small nuts and bolts. If I could find a mesh shaker billiard bottle that would be the perfect tool. Just put the nozzle in the top and shake it around.

I just got an email from Just Dashes, they have my VIN tag and are mailing it back with some rivets. That was lucky.

I installed the dash on Sunday and discovered the VIN tag missing. Just Dashes must have removed it to paint the frame. I hope they still have it, but I doubt it. I found a vendor on Ebay that reproduces them, so I may have to go that route. I wrote myself a big fat note to avoid installing the windshield before the vin tag!