smg1404

I always wanted one of those cool tools. I have always had to rebuild on a bench or the floor.... Too much money for the stand... If you prepare the work area (make it very clean. You do not really need a stand. Think about it the rebuild will take a month at the most. And unless you are going to make a habit out of rebuilding engines, you may never use it again.... Save your money, a good hoist (rented) and a clean work area is all you need.

Sounds like the best possible answer..

That is a very good post .... Thanks Phred.

posted above

This would be a good explanation, if the rpm did not go on up past the 5200 point.. But the description said that it only hesitated, or stumbled at 5200, then accellerated fine on up past 5200 rpm... I tend to think that it is more likely an ignition break down, ie weak coil, wrong or worn plugs. It could be caused by a combination of heat and pressure in the combustion chambers, causing the resistance of the plugs becoming too great to allow a reliable spark. In my experiance this has happened to me in about this rpm range. I was able to correct it with a better set of plugs, and better wires.

Does this happen in every gear, or just first??? Could make a difference.

Hey that is what I run...... Steve ... That is a good name, since its is also mine.... Do not defend your driving habits.... In the right place (judgement required) I do no thtink speed laws apply. To heck with the guys with the guns, and stinking badges. Runn your arse off, If you run into the weeds and blow up it's your buisness. Try not to take anyone with you, unless you get lucky and get some psycho on the way. I think I would not get too concerned about the issue with the oil pressure. After all does the car still run OK?, dioes the pressure now look OK?, Was the circumstance a little beyond normal operating conditions (what the car was designed for).... SO what? If you plan to extend the operating parameters to include long term full throttle rides. then modify the car to handle the extra load. otherwise I think you do not need to spend your money chasing ghosts.

I thougt you were still talking about the boobs post.

Still no answer.....But I have made some untested changes tonight.... I did find a big difference in tire pressure... ( I have a slow leaker front left) any way I adjusted the pressure but did not have time for a road test... maybe tomorrow... I saw some other ares of concern, but I am not sure they are serious enough, or relevant. Anyway I WILL find this and let you know....

I thought about this ... and assuming that the car could reach higher rpm before. the problem could easily be point gap, as I think someone else already stated... If the point gap becomes too small you will not allow enough time for the coil to saturate... Check the dwell... I have found that to be the most accurate way to set points... throw your feeler gauge away for points... Use for the valves though... Just a thought.

Also don't forget to check your plugs... You may need a colder heat range.. If they are a hot range, they may heat foul under high load conditions. This is probably not your problem, but it is worth checking. Also check the fuel filter, and air filter.

If you are going to run hard for extended periods of time, or run in very hot conditions, it might be a good option to check out.

The triples is what I have.... I cannot imagine why anyone would but the double setup. It just does't look right.. Sort of like a performance down grade... But like I said I never had any so I don;t know.. The triples do work very well, they just take a bit of learning to get used to the setup. I currently have one of the older sets, they have a pronounced flat spot when transitioning from the primaries to the mains, but driving technique takes care of most of that... I suspect that I will eventually improve that some, butif not , I can live with it. The throttle responce, and full throttle sound, and feel of the triples is fantastic.

That does sound like a possibility. I wondered if that was not the cause when I first read this.. I only wondered why it took an hour. But I guess the heat could slowly climb. Are you running an oil cooler.

I agree on a stock motor that the Webers are not much benifit. But I do not agree that they have problems at higher rpm's. If anything that is where they do their best.

I started with about 400, and worked down to 2000 grit... As you are doing this you will find more and more little spots that need more filler. I still have many spots that need work, but they are mostly pretty small. I have got to start rereading my posts. I sure am a bad typist.

I used the 16oz cans they were on sale at Meijers. It took about 4 cans of primer, and 6 cans of white.. Be carefull some pain colors cover better than others. I painted it yellow the first time, It looked pretty good, but I ran out of primer, ao I used a different color to finish priming... I showed through the paint. And it became obvious pretty quick that I could not afford enough to make it cover the difference. Of course I was using cheaper paind that time also. It was Meijer brand..

I was going to use a paint sprayer and shoot the rustoleum on that way. But the paint didn't harden very well.... The stuff in the spray cans gets real hard real fast.. Shoot it today, wet sand it tomorrow... I still need a little more work to be as good as possible (for me), but it looks good enough for now.. Remember tha hard pard is the surface prep... Total work = 95% surface prep 5% paint and polishing.

See Spray bomb example.

Yes I am.... I cannot afford the outrageous price from a body shop.... Heck most want more to paint the car than I paid for it... I would much rather put my money into parts that make the car run better. I am no body man ,, but the car looks good enough to drive..

On a stock engine, (like I have) the webers do not add much performance increase. I like them better than the su's in some ways.. If you get the webers, get the triple setup. It just makes more sence, but the cost is considerably more.... You can occasionally find a used set for a reasonable price. That is how I got mine. If you start to modify your engine, (Like I plan to do) then the Webers will make considerable performance gains. For a stock engine the SU's are fine..

I got the brakes today.... I hope to install them within a week..... Thanks.

I met the guy I bought my Z from tonight ..... He had the confused idea that his Honda would provide me with a challenge from light to light.... Boy was he confused. It was like a joke from start to finish... I was almost embarrassed blowing him away his car was so slowww. He even had the idea that he could do better on a second try.... He should get a faster car , or stop trying to show speed ...

He is just trying to figure out which loud pipe to put on his Honda. Ya know that makes them go really fast!!!!!

I have a paint job! although it is about 8 cans of Rustolium white... I figured I might as well shoot it with something to at least slow down the additional rust.. Might not be pretty, but I have something to put my feet on.