CoastGuardZ

You know... Being that i am from South Carolina...The state that started the Civil War... I almost have to take offense to that! Nate

Dude, that sucks! You can buy the Turbo cartridge (internals) at most parts stores--- or at least order it. Never rebuilt one myself, could be fun!!! Find out why she seized!!! Lack of oil? Lack of Coolant? Just plain old? If an oil line is plugged or busted You have to fix it first. Good luck and have fun! Nate:cross-eye

American Drummond makes a paint remover in a spray can which I think is safe for plastic. Best bet is to find some stuff and read the labels. Might want to try a boat supply place too, a lot of boats are fiberglass and require special chemicals too. I wouldn't think sandblasting would be safe and definitely not a sander. Maybe if you used a bunch of different grades of sand paper and gradually worked the paint off. ie: 120-440??? My $.02 Good luck Nate:cross-eye

FNG!!! Had to be affiliated with the military to even use FNG. Nobody uses FNG but us! Welcome! Hey my grandparents live in Hurst, just down the road. I'll be out there in about a month or so. Welcome again! Nate:cross-eye

Being that I am in the market for a low cost 240 for complete restoration I too have noticed a lack of Z's in the area...(I'm in western NY, but I get around). If any of ya'll look at starting a Western PA club I'll pay some dues even though I'm Z-less. There is a club in Rochester, NY (ZCCR) but that would be quite a haul for you. Also one in Syracuse (ZACNY) Really a haul! Hey Zmefly, I get married in a month so now she's got me on hold till after the wedding, but I'll resume searching sometime afterwards most likely next spring after the thaw, lord knows it snows like crazy here in Buffalo. Also looks like in order to get a Z I'll have to sell my bike:cry: . '97 Ninja 600:cry: . Later Nate:cross-eye

Search engine, Yahoo i think. I typed datsun 240z and Voila!!! Nate :cross-eye

I'm always ready to add my 2 cents on these topics!!! I sold cars for a while... 8 months @ a Nissan dealer and 2 months @ Ford dealer. I also work part-time @ Autozone now and get to talk to people about their cars and see what parts they are buying...ie plugs and wires or Starters and ignition modules. The new cars don't tell you a whole usually but the 1 and 2 year old models tell you everything. Dodge a dodge...track record and the fact that 9 out of ten spend more time in the shop in two years than a Nissan or Toyota do in 15 years! Initial build quality is big. Dodge doesn't stack up. I also got to take a ride in a Turbo PT last week...not impressed. I did get to take out a pre-production standard Mini at a ride and drive for Nissan (the local BMW dealer was gracious enough to bring it by during our test session at the track.) The mini was alright good power good handleing, but it was pre-production and had been a little abused so I can't vouch for build quality. Do your self a favor and seriously check out the SE-R sentra. 4 doors 165hp (175 Spec-V) more trunk space, more room and really nice to boot. And build quality check out a 2 or 3 year old sentra---they hold together. $.02 Nate:cross-eye

When it comes down to it my favorite amrican car has always been the the stang. And you can't help but love that exhaust note. My friend has a 93 (last year of the fox body) and has everything short of changing the rods and crank. It now has the gt-40 upper intake and the edelbrock lower, comp cam, complete BBK exhaust with stage 2 Flowmaster and 2 1/2" pipes and a myriad of other things. It puts a dyno proven 325 horse to the ground (thats 115 more than stock!) While it is now louder than original she still has that same note. And how truly beautiful it is!!! Ever hear the original Windsor motor, the 289 hipo? Sounds almost exactly the same! It's gotta be the motor!!!

For future reference go to AutoZone. NAPA sucks. AutoZone carries steel metric brake line. Sections are 8, 12, 20, 30, 40, 51, or 60 inches long. They carry them in these lengths with country style fittings ie: Japan, British, European, and one other that I can't recall. Nate :cross-eye

Very very nice color!!! I'm a big fan. Porsche always has nice colors, I also like Guards Red. That blue is truly an amazing color and would look great on a Z! Nate :cross-eye

What color are you painting it? Always remember dark colors always always show more imperfections and bodywork! Light colors hide, esp. white. Ex: My good friend is restoring a '65 Beetle. He is an outstanding bodyguy. When he finished prepping the body you could not see any problems with the work, see or feel. However once it was shot with the British Racing Green this was another story. Car still looks great, but in the right light... Nate:cross-eye

High pressure line is 15psi or more and cost on the average of $4 more per foot, that's right per foot. If you think the cost is worth it byall means have at it. If the majority of your run is steel lihe I guess I could see buying hi-pressure line. think about 10 feet is $50! Nate:cross-eye

Okay... The "yellow" means that you are talking about Bosch Super plugs which are Bosch's copper plugs. Bosch platinum comes in grey box and the Platinum 2's and 4's both come in black boxes. In my experience (none with Z's:( ) the Bosch platinum plugs are THE best. I can see you guys are just like the snowmobile guys that live and die by NGK's, which I can respect because when it's 15 below zero and you're 30 miles from the nearest town the last thing you want is your sled to die! I also run NGK's in my 600 Ninja, but have had good luck with Nipppondeno. Back to the point though... whats wrong with the platinums. The bosch plugs have a very small center electrode because they use 99% platinum cores which makes them leaps and bounds better than other platinum plugs...but if you are burning any oil or running very rich you can foul them very easy! Plug numbers would be: Bosch super"yellow box": 7501 Bosch plat."grey box": 4217 Nippondenso: 3067 Nippondenso plat.: 3238 Nate:cross-eye

"Aircraft strippers"...Planes that take off their clothes for money! "gazillion"...a lot ; esp. more than one!

One thing to remember is that the only way to test all outputs of an alt. is while it's on the car. The indoor bench testers can only show if the alt. can maintain a voltage...this isn't really the alts only job...It's main purpose is to charge, that's current and can only be done with the proper load on it, your car. Nate:cross-eye

DEAR LORD WHAT HAVE YOU DONE!!!!!!!!!

Right, so i can't find the angle that makes a 2+2 look "better". Not that it look's that bad, well ok it does but hey it's still a Z right? And i was digging the Idea of a s30 sport wagon 'till I saw the pick and passed out (ow, my head). Hey CAMO, I actually kinda like the 2nd and 3rd pics. What are they? Nate:cross-eye

So here it is. I've all but said it. I work at Autozone. I'm a shift manager otherwise known as a PSM. The Skinny: The fella should not even test your battery unless it reads 12.5 or higher when not even in use. If he proceeds to test it it will read one of 4 things. 1) good battery 2) good battery, low charge 3) Charge and retest (tester did not receive adequate info during test and requires a full charge to give an acurateresult) 4) Bad battery Charging system test reads voltage at battery (regulator output) and current supplied (drawn) durring charge cycle. Your regulator should be between ~13.1 - 14.5v and the amperage should be at least 60% of the alternators rated output. RESULTS: Your battery is bad. Let them use the Duralast Charger for free at Autozone or Trickle charge it yourself. In the end the battery will still test Bad. I believe by running on the battery after the alt. crapped out one or more cells in the battery collapsed. I would still say the alt. is bad but to be sure take it out and let them bench test it in the store. AutoZone can also bench test your reg., but since it's only like $15 I'd replace anyway. Happy testing! Nate:cross-eye

ID/OD doesn't apply to hose, they go by inside size though. When you go to the parts store and tell them you need 5 feet of 5/8" FUEL line, they know:paranoid: Nate:cross-eye

Don't know everything about the Z's since I don't have one yet...But I do know about cars and I'm an Elec. Tech. The 13.5-14.7 volts you read means the voltage regulator is doing it's job but it doesn't always mean the Alt. too...just 9 out of 10 times.:classic: The best thing is to have a parts store run a charging system and battery check on the car. The alternator must be in the car and the car running to read current draw (amps). NAPA is evil:bandit: ... try Autozone.:cheeky: Nate:cross-eye

ARRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!! I am racking my brain on those rims! :stupid: I've not only seen the logo before but i've seen that center cap on those slotted wheels before! Nate :cross-eye

Hey Marshall! I did a little test last night with a standard coil (good) and an Accel coil (good) they both read the same. So before you toss out the cash go ahead and test the Mallory you have. Nate:cross-eye

Marshall, You should be able to determine weather it is good or bad with the above information...if anything the values might be a little higher...I will try this tonight with a new Wells and a new Accel unit to see if I am right. Chances are that you wont notice any difference going back to stock parts. The temp switch I'm not sure about. Good luck Nate:cross-eye

Marshall, Why couldn't they test it? Is it because it's a mallory? Even if so they should be able to test it. I'm not 100% sure that it's the same resistance values as a standard coil, but if its not working chances are that it's open. The Autozone part is a Wells unit. The part # is C840 and the values are as follows: primary .7-1.1 ohms secondary 8.96k - 13.44k ohms This test is done with a standard ohm/ multimeter. Even though you have a mallory the test should still work if anything the values would be little higher. If the unit is bad it should be Megaohms or plain open. The Wells part is $20 here so the price should be the same or close. If you have any doubt on the resistance check $20 is cheaper than $50. Happy testing! Nate:cross-eye

I feel like churnning up the waters a bit since I think I'm the only sailor here!!! Where should I start? Oh Yes! American by birth, southern by the grace of god! Americans are set in their ways. It's a known fact. We are proud, big headed, hard headed, and honestly believe we are the best country on Earth! Okay so maybe it's true. But, lets get right down to it. Heres my standing on it. Where was the 240 designed? Japan. Where was the 240 built? Japan. And what side of the car do they drive on in Japan? The right side. Why? Cause the backwards! J/K!!! That's what I believe. Could be wrong, but I doubt it! HeHeHe! The 350Z. Having worked at a Nissan dealer for a little while I became privey to some info. The 350 was a combined effort between Nissan North America and Nissan Japan. The car was designed at Nissan Design International in Lojolla, California. Engineering took place in Michigan and Japan. And the preproductions were built in Japan. Some left, some right... What was first? Just as Alan says... It's busy under the drivers side of the bonnet on the lefties... Is it the same on the 350Z? Who knows? I just know they did some weird stuff under the hood. IE the battery placement. And 2many... I happen to think the 350 looks pretty good considering whats out there. Have you seen any of the domestics lately? GAG!!!:sick: That's my $.02 Hey Al... Did you know Your suppose to put Ice in Tea? And may I suggest some hush puppies instead of them 'ol stale crakers you're eatin'? HEHEHE...j/k...