Maples71240Z

No you don't have to change the ammeter, just don't add accessories that pull through the ammeter. That diode has to be put in the small wire that is hot when switched that ran to the regulator. That wire is used to excite the the new alternator to get it charging. Once its charging the alternator will backfeed the ignition and keep the car running when the key is turned off, the diode stops the power going backwards. The alternator you are using should have a excite wire to start the charging process and the sense wire to tell the internal regulator how many volts to charge at. A GM alternator has to have a light and/or resistor wired in series in that sense wire. Your's may or may not, someone else will have to chime in on that. The 280Z voltmeter has a charge light that I used to indicate when the alternator was charging. The only problem I had was when the charge light burned out and the alternator would not start charging. After that happened I wired in a LED and a resistor. Dave...

Actually not from "Hizandherz" my 71 is running a small block Chevy, The issues OniZO is facing are the same as I was, the stock wiring can't handle the additional output if a bunch of accessories are added and you can't move a bunch of amps through the stock ammeter without burning it up.

I ran a 4 ga from the alternator to the battery & did not use the stock wire that went to the stock alternator. That stock wire is not up to carring the added amps of the new alternator. If you unwrap the harness in the area of the alternator you will find the regulator wiring is just taped into the harness with the other end going to the stock alternator. There is a switched positive wire that ends up at the regulaior. The stock white existing wire that went to the alternator output is hot all the time. Once I removed the regulator wiring I just taped the harness up with 3M 333 electrical tape and ended up with a very stock looking harness less the regulator and regulator wiring. Just follow the factory tharness wrapping style. I left the switched positive wire and the white 10 ga wire that went to the stock alternator output sticking out of the re-wrapped harness for future use. Dave...

I did a similar upgrade to this with my 71, but used a GM CS-144. I found the Z's stock harness was not up to the task, I took the output from the larger alternator and took it straight to the battery. Actually connecting it at the starter. I then added grounds from the alternator to the block and to the chassis, all these these and the alternator output are 4 ga but I would guess that 6 ga would be fine for your upgrade. My next issue was the ammeter, I swapped it out for a voltmeter from a 76 280Z. I have dual electric fans, electric water pump, fuel pump and H4 head lights. I added Daves relays for the head lights. All these pull power straight from the battery and not from the existing harness. My battery positive and negative cables are now 2 ga. Dave...

I put a 76 voltmeter in place of the ammeter in my 71 and wired the charge light to a switched ignition source. I later changed the charge light to a red LED. My altermator is a internaly regulated GM CS-144. Dave...

I have been following this thread with great interest. I have a Tenma lab scope that I have used for other automotive apps but not secondary ignition. Is there a reason that a inductive pickup from a timing light will not work?

I have bought a bunch of wiring stuff from these guys and it was always top quality marine grade. http://genuinedealz.com/

I think a leather punch would be the best tool for this. Here's several http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=leather+punch&Submit=Go

I have the Autopower 4 point bar in my 71 V8 conversion. If I put my fingers between the top of the bar and the roof panel where the map light is I feel a bunch of side to side movement of the roof. I planned to attach the bar to the roof area by the light to stiffen things up more. On my Z the pillers are not showing any cracks yet.

Ebay item numbers 120445596776 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240Z-280Z-Battery-Cable_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem1c0b1df468QQitemZ120445596776QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories 270119090888 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-240Z-260Z-280Z-Battery-Cable-Set_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em20Q2el1116QQhashZitem3ee45a3ac8QQitemZ270119090888QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Is this valve on the firewall? What year is your Z?

If the valve is just plugged up it can be taken apart and cleaned up. Any aftermarket valve will need adapters and will end up not fitting correctly where the old one was.

I bought one of these http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_rdc=1&item=120445595548&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.com%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp3907.m38.l1313%26_nkw%3D120445595548%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&viewitem= and its a slick pair of bending pliers, It does all the seller says, and more

Replacement brakelines will be 3/16" with japanese nuts on them. AGS brand will have a part number that begins with BLJ followed with the length. Here is a list with numbers for the correct parts for the Z. These are all AGS part numbers (American Grease Stick) BLJ-308 (8") BLJ-312 (12") BLJ-320 (20") BLJ-330 (30") BLJ-340 (40") BLJ-351 (51") BLJ-360 (60") 10 X 1.0mm AGS Union BLC-9U, Edelmann 27400, Weatherhead 7934A, Continental WUB596 10 X 1.0mm Japanese tube nut for 3/16" tube BLF-40C-5 - Carded (5 fittings per card/10 cards per case) BLF-40B - Individually Bagged (1 fitting per bag/10 bags per case) BLFX-40 - Bulk/Boxed (100 fittings per case/box) BLF-40 - Bulk/Bagged (10 fittings per case/bag) Another nice product that works well on the Z's is AGS PolyArmour PAC-325 BRAKE LINE (its 3/16") This brake bending pliers is the best I have found for our Z's. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Datsun-240Z-280Z-Brake-line-Pliers_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ65Q3a12Q7c66Q3a2Q7c39Q3a1Q7c72Q3a1205Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3911Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem1c0b1def9cQQitemZ120445595548QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fToolsQQsalenotsupported This seller ships world wide and can get the lines also, but you will need to bend them.

Looks like what I got from TAP but not for that much $$$$!!! Its cut the same size as the glass and just has the glass laying on top of it. PM me the size of the glass and your address and I will send you some. Dave...

Google "Vinyl Repair Kit" and you will come up with hits like this one. I used a kit like this but had a iron to heat the texturing material. The one below is probably all you will need for what you are doing. http://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Leather-Vinyl-Fabric-Repair/dp/B000SR12C0

http://www.v8-240z.com/files/Datsun/Doors/Z_Car_Door_Panel_Recovering.htm

What about the plastic fan shrouds on the Z's? I have one I am trying to modify and can't find anything that will touch it. ABS glue will not even touch the plastic the shrouds made of. I need a filler that will stick.

What year is your Z? a 280Z splash pan has a large round hole on the left side under the radiator for the drain, the one fo the 240Z to early 260Z does not have the large hole, and they don't interchange.

Is the spring clip fuel filter bracket the same one used in the engine bay?

What does it bolt to in the back? I used the 280Z fuel pump bracket in my 71 and two threaded mounting holes in the sub frame lined up with the bracket but for the other I had to drill and tap a spot in the subframe for the second bolt. The 280Z bracket looks like the one Dave has pictures of. I see that the guy selling the bracket on Ebay also has the fuel pump for sale. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=180317539406&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=008

There is a paper filter inside the pump, is that other filter on Daves Z stock or did the previous owner install it?

I have used Optimas for years along with other AGP's and other gell cell's. I bought a light timer, the type that turns house lights on and off and set it to run the charger every day for 1/2 hour or close to that. The charger is set on its lowest 12V setting. I have one battery that is 10 years old and still going strong. In fact I have yet to replace any of the batteries.

My Wilwood was like yours with the 1/8" NPT brass fitting, the other end of the fitting is for 3/16" tube and the nuts are 3/16" inverted flare nuts. All I did was to cut the brake line and flare it after I put the SAE nut on it

If it comes off will it cause a problem?