esprist

Z therapy's carb rocks!!!!!! It is so much better!!!!

Thank you guys for all your valuable info. Well, originally when we thought of producing them, we were going to make Series 1 hose, so you could use it for Series 2. Series 2 (and Late series 1) intake has a plug on the side so you could fit the early hose right there if you swap the inlet. On the other hand, Series 1 intake doe not have inlet hole or plug at the top. More money for us, but it will look correct. Series 1 hose will be out this summer!!!!! Tsunami had delayed many of our production line.....Oh well.

As far as I know, Series 1 has vacuum inlet coming out at bottom of Air tube. Series 2 have the same hole but pluged. And It has another inlet at the top. I aslo found out that you can used these hoses on 74 260Z 75-78 280Z by changing the length. (1 pair of tube cutter is required)

Thank you for all your support! Due to exchange rate $1=80Yen and Tsunami damage, things and cost of these products are tough, but we are going to put major investment for the Z car parts this year!

This is the same material they used on 2011 Nissan/Toyota/Daihatsu/Suzuki/Honda/and so on.

Yes. It goes at back of engine running coolant from Carb to 3 way pipe at RH side of engine.

This is not the same material that was used for th radiator hose. It is Fuel/oil resistant hoses. It is, again made by Nissan's OEM supplier in Japan. We are in process of producing Air pump hoses, and other emission hoses. It is taking time because we have to deal with different materials and manufacturing process. By fall, we should have reproduction wire hose clamps (6-7 different sizes) to cover entire engine bay as well. That was very clever of you pointing out the difference.

This is once discontinued coolant bypass pipe that gose around back of the engine on Datsun 240Z Cars. We managed to special order them to Nissan Exclusively. So this is Genuine Nissan part. This part is only available while supplies last. Opening price for this week is $88-Free shipping for US main island/$35 for all international shipping. Payment to support@jdm-car-parts.com

Now braided brake master vacuum hose is available for Datsun 240Z cars. Check valve to intake for Series 1 car will be available this summer also. Opening Special price is available for Classic Z Car Members at $88-free shipping for Master Booster side $48-free shiping for Check Valve to Intake side. (**Free shipping for US main island only) Payment at support@jdm-car-parts.com

:cry::cry:I called them, but out of stock (national back order) :cry::cry:

Weren't ou selling your beautiful car on Ebay? Do you still have it?

Compression test should be done "dry" and "wet" Please make sure that higher compression does not simply mean it it good. It could loose some compression through rings or valves, but it might gain some from carbon biuilt up on the top of pistons. Now what is more important is "variation" between cylinders should be within 10-15%. After compression test is conducted and have some doubt, and then try leak-down test. Leak down test is the easiest and the most accurate test you can conduct on your engine. By the way, compression test procedure is following: 1. Engine at NPT (Normal Operating Temperture 2. All the spark plugs out. 3. Battery fully charged 4. Keep throttle at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) position.(This cuts off fuel on Carb cars) (if it is a fuel injected car, remove the fuel pump relay or fuse) 5. crank 4-6 times for dry testing 6. Squirt oil into cylinder from spark plug each hole you are tesing and crank. (Wet test) This tell you if compression ring is good or bad. Reading should be about 10-15% higher than reading from dry test. If reading goes way up, then the rings are worn. If there is no change in # in wet test, but compression is lower than spec. Then check valve operation **By the way, the valves should be properly adjusted, too.

I have had washer bottle for over 10 years. I still do not know what it is for. The box does not have parts#, but I know this is from 70's. I searched on Ebay and looked and looked....... Can some one hep me with this?:laugh:

With any business that sells items, if it takes such a long time, they do not have them in stock. He or she have to order their parts from other suppliers after taking the order. In this case, are there any parts this supplier carries that you cannot get elsewhere? I do not see pretty much anything on their web that MSA doe not have in stock.

Technically they were suppose to be the same. But they are not. You caught this one! I just did not want to confuse Graphx007. Due to different material, different production location, and date, they come out in different color. My UK front spoiler, rear wing and tail lamp finisher, and JDM grille are not the technically the same color even though they are NOS original paint condition.

In general, Production date 3/1976 is the last ones in California. So look at driver's door jam for prodution date.

It appears that the whole front end is distorted to me. Depending on the level of restoration, you might want to find another car. If you are making a driver and little show, and then it is totally fine. Early Z cars were not make well with crumple zones, so the whole front end sways with minor front end collision. What you have will be (just looking at one picture) 1. RH front rail damage 2. RH front upper rail damage 3. RH front apron damage 4. LH upper rail damage. 5. Core support damage. all of above is "S" Structural parts:" frame damage" on Unibody Structure. I am NAAA (National Auto Auction Association Certified Frame/Structural Examiner) by the way.

OK. It is chrome plated and gray part is the same color as grille, tail lamp finisher(3pc), and (UK front air dam and UK, Euro, or JDM rear wing) D center cap is plastic chromed with semin gloss black. http://jdm-car-parts.com/datsunnissan-original-detail/truth-about-d-hubcaps-on-early-240z-cars/ Now early ones have less retaining ears(skipping teeth) that is for early car collectors' garage, but later ones have more teeth and practical. Good luck!

I do not know the size, but buddy of mine had same issue, and he went out and got some very similar material at Home Depot.

Use 280Z ones and plug 1 hole. I have done that before. You can also use 240z one.

You are lucky man! Having said that, you must have taken care of her really good to come to that level. You might want to share more about "how to get to your level" So that we can all have bunch of Zzzzzzzzzs.

it is not available anywhere right now. Auto Zone, O' Relily, Black Dragon, Motor Sport, Japanese supplier............... Any one knows where to get them for 1979-1981 Brake master or repair kit?

Obviously it is not "727 miles"LOL Kust like anything else. People can put price tag on anything. I would just ignore it. Let it go.

Here is one you might be looking for. http://shop.jdm-car-parts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=59

Welcome to the wonderful club! I am in L.A. just like you. My biggest recommendation is to buy "RUST FREE" and then possibly "Accident Free" car. Please do not buy a car just because it looks good. Look at everywhere: rear hatch jam, Roof, A and C pillar, quarter panels, and frame rails, so on. If you want the car checked ou before you buy, go to www.autoinspector.org for pre-purchase inspection. This guy is a Z guy too! Good luck!