darom

Congrats Bruce! The hatch strut is holding!

No marks to be found - there is a strong smell of Chlorine though.

Bruce, good luck on your trip! Looking forward to some pictures from the event.

Thanks guys, I will measure the old/cracked fan vs the new replacement one. I am actually facing a different issue on top of the cracked fan blades. After I removed/reinstalled the tranny and installed a new TC, I started hearing some hitting noises coming from the front of the car. I think my fan got too close to my HALL sensor mount and would occasionally hit it (especially when warmed up). I fab'ed 2 shims to move the clutch/fan assembly forward by 3 mm: And here is how close the fan is to my HALL sensor mount:

Thanks, ordered one.

That's what I thought. Thanks!

Hi guys, Can you please review the pictures of my radiator fan ('76 280z) and let me know if I should replace it with a new one from zcardepot? I am seeing some cracks and am afraid the fan can explode taking out my radiator and my hall sensor which is sitting within a few millimeters from it. The fan clutch is showing some resistance while free moving it. I'd like to stick with the mechanical one since it has been cooling my car pretty well. I have a stock fan shroud. Thanks!

Hi cgsheen1! Thanks for the recommendations. I am running the latest version of Microsquirt, 440cc Bosch injectors, Spartan 3 v2, crank 36-1 wheel with HALL sensor, LM7 truck coils with batch firing, AZC oil pan. I will try making Microsquirt work with the turbo (no sequential ignition). I have only one output left (relay) which I can use for an electric fan, for ex. I was aiming for 8-10 lbs of boost to play it safe and keeping my stock rear diff/half-shafts alive. I looked up some parts from rockauto and here is a list if it works? EXEDY 06030 clutch kit, 1975 2+2 Flywheel: AMS AUTOMOTIVE / RHINOPAC 167304, for 2+2 model Throwout bearing, WJB / INMOTION PARTS WRDNE01576C (any manufacturer preference?) Hopefully, if the car parts are for 2+2 model, I am not going to run into any issues with the fitment/clutch fork throw. I just installed a brand new master and slave clutch cylinders (for my 280z 1976 model). Will this create a problem? (I checked the part numbers, they are the same for 76 and 75, I think I should be good here). I started a thread here on hybridz dealing with my project: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/136053-76-280z-microsquirt-project/ Thanks! Den

Yarb, it is the gasket I found at Rockauto. I think it is a cork type. Steve from AZC recommended to use the RightStuff gasket maker. I used it in the past, it seals well, and is a major pain in the neck to deal with if you want to remove stuff. Steve mentions it in his note with his oil pan that the best way to install the oil pan is with the engine out of the car :-) I wish it was my case. With an oil pan installation, the clearance on the 280z is tight already. The oil pickup on the AZC pan creates an issue trying to install the pan without jacking up the engine to give more room. If I use an RTV like RightStuff, I would swear that stuff all over while trying to install it. It would be a mess. What I did is to put a thin layer of black permatex onto the AZC pan and glue the cork gasket to it. Give it a few hours before the final installation. Now I can move the oil pan around the oil pickup with all my bolt holes nicely lined up etc. The gasket wouldn't move it I bump it against something. Apply some black permatex in 4 areas the FSM talks about, and you are all set. I don't think it would matter if it was a cork type gasket or a rubber one. I just need some material to seal the oil pan against the engine. I am sure some other guys have a different way to deal with it. If my engine was out of the car, flipped over, I would be happy to lay a nice bead of the RightStuff and carefully place the AZC oil pan on top of it. I am sure there would be no leaks since this stuff truly seals.

I installed the AZC pan, very nice piece. No leaks yet - I used a cork gasket with a few small blobs of black RTV in the areas suggested by the FSM. It might be in my head, but the engine noise had quietened down since the pan installation.

Thanks, Yarb. I am on hybridz too, I joined it when I started exploring the Megasquirt/turbo upgrade (I was getting fed up with the AFM/running lean etc lol). There is less traffic now as it used to be.

Hi Zed, unfortunately I didn't take a picture of the back side of the PP. I did inspect it, it looked like a brand new brake rotor, no scratches, smooth surface. No discoloration. Appreciate you checking it out for me. I took the car for a test drive - the shifts were fine, no slipping. Re: the turbo - I am looking at the Protunerz turbo kit. A larger flywheel (240mm) is probably what I am going to end up with. I am sure I will have questions for you guys here on this forum later on :-)

Here is one of the PP:

Shoot, I wish I would have posted my flywheel's picture for you guys to review too. Here is what it looked like when I removed the clutch disc: Previously I didn't have any clutch slipping/disc chattering issues. My plan is to install the turbo next year and replace the clutch with a beefier version if it is needed. Either I will re-surface the stock flywheel then or go a with new lighter version, I will have to do a research about it/ask the forum for an opinion. Appreciate your input.

Yes, it is quite heavy (over 20 lbs?).

Update: put the transmission back with the Dorman $6 clutch alignment tool for 24 splines. Installed 2 guide bolts (don't forget to put slots into them, otherwise you won't be able to remove them). The transmission was in 1st gear, I moved the rear shaft a little to help it ease into the clutch splines. It took 10 minutes. Here is my improvised flywheel hold tool (saw some guys on youtube doing this): Next is the driveshaft, refill the tranny and exhaust mounting.

Hi @kw906! Thanks for the interest. I haven't taken my car on a long ride yet to see if the poly mustache bar bushings are transmitting too much road noise. If the noise is there, I would use these serrated washer insulators instead of flat washers that came with my poly kit.

I tried using the sharp punch tool/screw extraction method while removing the seal. It immediately moved sideways inside. I was able to use a hook tool to extract the seal out. If anyone is interested, I found a plumbing part at Menard's that can be used for the installation. It is called '4x3 Red Bushing Con, SXH SDR35 SW' in the Plumbing section. Its inside diameter fits nicely over the crank. Once the seal is positioned, it was easy to tap it in. I had to dremel inside a little to make sure the 'tool' sits flush: Thanks to everyone for your input. I lost my clutch alignment tool from the Exedy kit, had to order a new one at O'Reilly's.

Thanks! You are right, aviation permatex is a sticky substance.

Great, thanks guys - I feel better now since I know that the auto shop actually replaced the front gasket. I bought a rear main seal from Rockauto, Mahle, JV637, made in Japan. Looks very solid. The last question - the inside lip of the rear main seal per Tom's book will be coated with moly/petroleum jelly. What about the outside seal surface and inside the engine where the seal goes? Wipe it clean with a solvent? Should I smear some aviation permatex on the outside of the seal before its installation? Thank you.

Hi guys, I am chasing some oil leaks, and I finally removed the transmission to find out that the rear main seal is leaking (I replaced the side seals a few weeks ago): I wanted to ask you if I should replace the clutch that I had the shop install 15 years ago. The car has put 1000 miles since then. The clutch plate doesn't look worn out as far as thickness goes. There are some grooves in it, but running a finger nail against then doesn't feel deep. The engine flywheel is smooth, no scratches. The clutch didn't slip. I replaced the master/slave clutch cylinders a month ago. Here are some pictures of the clutch plate: I also don't see any leaks around the front transmission seal/gasket area. It looks like the shop replaced it (I see the 'new' paper gasket sticking out): The throw-out bearing is smooth, no noise while spinning. Should I replace the clutch and re-do the front seal/gasket of the transmission? I got the replacement parts from the ZCarDepot just in case. Thanks!

Hi @HusseinHolland, I was going through your build/garage/Volvo mods and saw this comment about Milkfab's racing silicone gasket. I had the exact same thing happened to me. No overtorquing. Mine split as well. I didn't want to invest another $30+, ended up with a good ol' cork glued to the valve cover with black RTV, no leaks. I did send my feedback to Milkfab (I bought other things from them in the past), but never heard back.

Hi @HusseinHolland! Any updates on this project? Curious, if you finished the 350z tranny adaptation in your 1st gen.

Will do, thanks for the photos. it is a very nice looking oil pan.

Hi @Yarb ! Thanks for the link. I like their oil pan and it is cheaper than the Japanese one. Do you have any feedback? What kind of gasket did you use? Cork, rubber? Sealant? Does it come with the oil pickup? I didn't see it in the description. Do they provide new bolts? How deep is it vs the stock one? Any issues hanging too low to the ground? Any clearance issues installing it? Leaks? What did you do with the oil dipstick? Thanks!