conedodger

See the thread about the RX-7 fuel pump in the Electrical section. It is very quiet and runs about $50 shipped. I have triple Webers so I run on the mechanical alone. The mechanical pump cannot keep up at WOT. I would run some kind of solvent through the hard lines and blow them out really well. As for the rubber, absolutely no 40 year old lines should be used. I would use modern EFI hose. It is expensive, can be $5.00 a foot but the ethanol in modern fuel will eat anything that isn't made for modern fuel. That will ruin your day and burn your car to the ground. The fire department calls that a CarBQue. Only thing is everyone is having fun but you...

Ha ha! I was thinking the same thing Coop!

Coming up fast! See you there!

Coming up fast! See you there!

This is coming up fast guys! If there are additional people who are going to be there I need to know... Hope to see you there!

I just went to the Barrett Paint Supply store here in Reno and bought SEM Landau Black 15013 which is the color used to re-do your door arm rests and such... Be sure to get some of that as well... Any automotive paint supply should have it.

Well, when you get off work, his name is Pete Robinson and he goes by Rayven14 on HybridZ... His business is called Strictly510 and he lives in the SF Bay area.

I know, you think I mounted it upside down right? Damn camera phone doesn't know up from down...

Time for another update. I had to go rescue my wife. She's a financial planner and she had left an essential briefcase at home when she left for Sacramento yesterday. I told her I would bring it to her (from Reno) but I really had ulterior motives. I have a friend who is a Porsche Club member who owns an interior shop and I decided I would call Bob and see if he would glue up the vinyl on my door panels that I have put together out of fiberglass panels from Strictly510 and parts from the original door panels. You have seen the pictures of the panels as I have cut the holes and test fit them earlier in this thread. I was too excited about them to NOT mount one up and take a pic, even though I haven't fully dressed the door with the arm rest and such... Watcha think? Unbelievable how quiet and solid the door sounds when you close it!

Will do! The beer I mean... 8)

Arne! You are so sexy I could kiss you right now! Good thing you're in Oregon! 8)

In a slightly related note; I want to get rid of the front spoiler on my car and go to the spook but I am having trouble finding worthwhile front valence sheet metal. Has anyone reproduced these in fiberglass or carbon fiber or is there a source I don't know about? This is what I am getting rid of. I want more of a vintage look.

For the original posters purposes, the stock brakes are the best option when in good condition. If I only autocrossed, I could go years on a set of pads. I have always had a problem with the word 'upgrade' as it applies to the Toyota Caliper. Why add so much unsprung weight? A good well maintained stock system will work fine. My neighbor came over the other day with boxes and boxes of parts. Probably a $1000 worth of brake 'upgrades'. In my opinion, they would have been great parts to put in play for a track car. He wanted me to help him install them and he helps me with my cars all the time. I said 'just for giggles, let's bleed your brakes really well first and see how that goes. You have pretty new performance pads already and SS brake lines too", He said ok and we jacked up his 350Z and bled the brakes with some Super Blue that I had on the shelf. When we were done, I said ok, go take it out and stomp the wizz out of it. He came back and said the fade was all gone and it stops like a champ. Too bad, he had to pay shipping for the Willwoods and the new pads and SS brake lines in both directions. His brake fluid? Was probably original to his 2004 60K miles car. Yup, your going to have fade in that situation. For what you are describing, you just need well maintained stock brakes.

A couple of contemporary vintage racing efforts...

Some more PLN, though not in a Datsun/Nissan.

This caught my eye... I suppose there are lots of Y. Katayama's in Japan... I wonder what the sub-text says?

It shouldn't be a problem. Mine didn't starve for fuel at Thunderhill with as much WOT as I dared give it...

I run my Webers at 2.5lbs. I have never experienced fuel starvation at all. Now, we'll see what Keith Franck says on the 14th of October. I may end up having to turn it up or down... I doubt down. You can give your fuel pump a bit of help by running a smaller return line than your feed line...

Parked...

Enkei or copies. More '80's than '70's but ok... Tough part is the sparse tire selection for 14" wheels...

I'm told I need to use the 8920...

Bob Sharp again... Contemporary?

Peirce Manifolds in Gilroy, CA

I would say an hour and a half of searching is enough. I get all kinds of search results on 280ZX distributors and such but not what I need. So, sorry for the forum clutter but I still have no tach... The MSD6AL is installed under the dash with a custom mount to the fan housing. Red and Black power are direct to the battery. White wire is direct to the wire coming out of the distributor. Black wire is direct to the negative side of the coil. Orange wire is direct to the positive side of the coil. Red wire is to a black wire with a white stripe coming out of the harness right by the coil mount. The MSD6AL appears to be working, but of course the coil is not working. I have the MSD 8910 adapter but when I hook it up as directed by MSD I still have no tach. MSD says to hook up the tach adapter inline with the red to red and white to white. The car starts and runs with this set up but no tach...

I use fuel injection rated hose and the return line to the tank...