Zedyone_kenobi

Your car are always a fantastic inspiration Guy! But it sounds like I could go either way if it was an owners choice. I may paint my current one the same as the rear tail light panel, or an even darker flat black like your front spoiler Guy. Then I will order a new BRE style from BRE or MSA. The spoilers on your cars, are they MSA? Do they use the two bolt attachment or the 6 bolt?

I have been itching to try to put a more accurate fitting BRE replica rear spoiler on my car. So I pulled mine off and I need to do some tiny little scratch touch ups. While I was doing that I thought how some cars really looked 'the business' with a black rear spoiler. What color were the spoilers when the dealer added them? They did paint match them. Datsun did not supply the car with rear spoilers did they? If I wanted to put on an accurate rear spoiler, which one would have been picked back in the day. I am thinking of going with a BRE from www.bre2.com and order from Gayle and Peter. But should I get it paint matched, or should I just paint it the same color as the rear tail light panel? What was the typical way they came?

I can definitely vouch for Datsun spirit, the quality will amaze you. He has build me a fantastic running L28 short block, and it has been on a 1000 mile rally and never missed a beat. It has also been driving hard and casually around town, equally happy to do whatever I ask of it. Keep up the good work Dave!

I need to get a new gasket for the firewall. But took my first drive today. The gas pedal travel is truncated a bit compared to my throttle cable, but the feeling is direct and so smoooooooth. My throttle cable never felt 'right'. It worked okay, but it hung up and did not return to zero so to speak so often. I also after driving with this manifold I think I was only ever getting 75% throttle for the longest time. I gave her a good romp in first and second, and my car has never revved that hard and that fast ever. I do not think it was the manifold with it larger runners, but that may have helped. I know my L28 likes the added flow and seems to respond to it immediately if not sooner. Makes me think DCOE45's would be even better. But that is another story. Idle is spot on perfect at 1000 rpm and I cannot even feel the engine running. Overall, I am thrilled with this swap. I also finished my fluid flush on the roadster and fixed an oil leak on the oil pan drain plug on the roadster as well. Overall a Very productive day. Now to kick back, and have brew, as I have earned it. Some pics of the stable. Oh, I picked up a set of genuine Coco mats for the roadster. They look the business, I think the Z may getting a set soon.

I will snap a pic of the linkage tomorrow I promise

Marty your Z was one of my inspiration pictures when I was deciding what to do with my Z. Such a sweet car buddy!

I am happy to report that I finished the intake swap and the OEM push pull rod throttle linkage is working beautifully. The large diameter intake runners seem to have not had a noticeable effect on idle AFR so far. Also of note, the Harada has completely isolated intake runners. The cannon connected them all. I have not seen what effect this will have on the brakes yet, but time will tell. I synced the air flow the carbs far easier than ever before. Since each cylinder is completely isolated, differences in air flow were able to be individually adjusted. Luckily each carb was flowing identical in each barrel, so all I had to do was to get the air flow to match carb to carb. I do not think I have had such a nice idle in a while. I have not driven it yet as my roadster is on jackstands blocking in the Z. NOte to self, never start two projects at the same time...

I had my OEM one recurved by www.advanceddistributors.com They made my Z run very well. It was OEM with a custom recurve and a pertronix. Loved it. I think I still have it.

I installed a prototipo momo wheel in the past in my Z. I took it off after a while. I just did not look 'right' if you know what I mean. The wheel gets closer to you as well, and it changes the perfect driving position the OEM wheel gives you. Let me see if I can find a pic. To me that just looks tiny. IF they made it the full size of the OEM wheel but with that style, it would be great. 350mm is just too small to my eyes. A larger thicker wheel would be great. I always thought the 280Z wheel is nice looking and has the dish.

Man, lots of good help here. The parts for the Z are out there. I am still looking for a complete interior redo kit. I have a great condition black interior, but I really want a burgundy one..

I drooled over this very pic when I was searching for my Z in 2007. That car has the look doesn't it.

Seems we are living parallel lives. I really hope myself as well as the fine men and women of this site can help you. You will NOT find a better source of great knowledgeable people than on this classic Z board. Send me an IM here or on NASIOC. I have a couple of copies of the Just SU's DVD. I will send you one to get you started

I got an 8 point west Texas deer Most expensive meat in the history of the world Had a revelation 2 days ago when I was putting the header and intake back on I have always done this the same way Put header on then install intake sans carbs Then install all the nuts on the studs at times contorting my arms in unnatural ways Then it occurred to me The two outer bolts and three inner bolts of the header have absolutely nothing to do with the intake So why not tighten those almost all the way first Less struggling with getting the washer/lock washer/nut on at crazy angles This was a revelation to me It makes it so much easier!

Well I had a snag holding me up. Going to try my hand at Deer Hunting this weekend, but I am taking the whole week of THanksgiving off, so I will hopefully get some work done on the Z. I have too many hobbies.

so basically all Z engines have to sound like they have valves tapping... HAHA Amazing engine for sure. That poor 1970's tach just cannot keep up. Anybody else think 50mm throttle bodies are a tad too large.

Actually did some more research. They are called Bell Crank Bushings. And low and behold Ebay had them for 9 bucks! So sorry never mind!

Well not sure of the actual name, but here is what I am talking about? I would be eternally grateful if anybody has a spare or two.

mmmm Mikuni's!

I currently run the 6-2-1 header but I only went with one O2 sensor at the end of my Y pipe. I have been very happy with the results for many years. I have no idea how long the O2 sensor is good for, but she is chugging along with no issues. I have absolutely no idea if it is still accurate though I love me some SU's they are wonderful carbs.

yup, that is perfect. Thanks. Looks just like mine.

IT certainly does! did you go with the gasket Harada supplied. It looks far less robust than the Felpro I was using.

Pray Tell where did you get those Velocity stacks! I would love some RED ones like that. and your engine bay is just reeeeeeeediculous! HAHA So beautiful Mike, I know how hard you have worked on that. Your car is inspirational! I can already see what you are talking about with having to move the throttle arms Mike. Yup. Will have have to do that as well I am going to give the push pull rods a try first. My car never felt better. However, if this works as well as I think it will, I will put the standard strength springs back into the webers. I installed stronger springs to help them return to closed. But they made my throttle pedal feel like a bowflex.

I have been fighting with the throttle cable on my Triple Webers for years. Just never had that perfect OEM feeling the push pull rods gave me (after they were rebuild and in perfect condition mind you) So Mike W. was kind enough to put me onto the Harada manifold. This this has all the features I have dreamed of in a manifold. It has a cast in bosses to hold the teflon bearings for the throttle rod. The throttle rod is BEEFY so deflection is not an issue on the middle carb. It comes with a Cable guide that should you want to run a cable should make the throttle feel excellent. It also has a torsion spring on the end that is awesome. I had drawn up one like this in CAD years ago, but good to see somebody implement it. Most importantly I will be able to use the OEM throttle rods to actuate the things. I am so happy for this. I love how they look and I like the OEM nature of them. Plus they felt sublime on my SU's. Without further ado, I started tearing it apart today. Also working on the roadster as well. Pics! So the progress has been good. Amazing how easy carbs are to get off, when they have been removed like 5 times before. This will be the 3rd time I have swapped manifolds. Meh, what can you do. Gotta tinker.

Watch out for altitude corrections on this head level calculation. Rho * G * H IN Colorado it may be a smidge different than in New Orleans. HAHA What a great idea man. I am so going to try this to see how close I got mine using the gage I bought from Keith.