Zedyone_kenobi

I am glad they are not on there... HATE those things... in fact it was one of the requirements when I was looking for my Z.

This was my car the day I purchased it...with stripes.. yes I know they are in the wrong place...PO did this. Now here my car. It really depends on what you like.

THanks very much, I will give him a try!

I have not found a way to mount the front plate without bending it all to heck...When I mount it, it scrapes the front air dam. I am going to have to find a way to do that eventually. I never run front plates on my cars. I have been that way for 6 years, and only have been caught once. Got a fix it ticket. I guess I will take my chances until I get it mounted. I am in the Kemah area

I currenty have a rather dingy stock dizzy with the pertornix unit installed on my stock L24 (1971 Z)... but was wanting a more aggressive timing advance. I read that the euro dizzy has just that. Now, has anybody used one of these, and is the curve that much different? Also, can my current pertronix fit into the euro dizzy?

Its funny you mention that. I have a complete set of stock lenses. I was thinking of trying all the originals on there. It gives a splash of color to an otherwise monotone look. Thanks for the compliments folks. She is still getting her refresh. Next step is motor mounts and inner rear control arm bushings.

Car runs so well. I just need to work up the energy to pull the amp and tach to replace. I have ones still in the box that would snaz up the interior...

Awesome!!! simply awesome!!!

good luck with whatever you choose, I was so happy to see you post again, as I wanted to hear your twice pipes! Keep a cool head and thing about it. Do not make rash decisions.

oh you mean like, darn, and shucks.

THanks Bruce.. I was hoping you would chime in!

I recently purchased a book on how to tune and rebuild SU's as good light reading, and I ran into a problem. It covers all manner of SU carbs. HS, HD, HS2, HS8. I am pretty sure I do not have the later, but after I get my carbs back from Z therapy, I would like to know which chapters to follow. I have a stock 71 240Z. It has an E46 manifold for what its worth.

Mike you do good work, and you deserve credit. There are many do it yourselfers like me that know their limitations that can really benefit from somebody with your experience. I am very happy that you have received some business. Your work speaks for itself. But testimonials do not hurt. I still owe you some sunshiny pics of my Z.

WEll I think the time has come to pull off the carbs / header and get them done. May as well send off the fuel lines to get them them plated and replace all the lines back to the tank. I will probably wait another month or so, but then its off to Z therapy for some magic...

Do Z therapy carbs come balanced and ready to bolt on? I would guess not, as no two engines are the same, but what adjustments are needed when bolting on carbs that you get back form Z therapy.

Thanks very much...she is really turning out to be quite the car. Still undecided which direction I want to take her mechanically. Engine is stock, suspension is not. I do not want to go too wild. But I would like some more umph.

my pleasure, I think you will be very pleased with his work.

I am by no means a novice when it comes to car detailing. I shop for all the good products, use all the good equipment, and pretty much do not believe in paying anybody to touch my cars ever. This went especially for my 240Z. However, my talents have their limits. I looked around for quite some time and found Michael at showroom shine mobile detailing... http://www.showroommobiledetailing.com/ I have been burned before with hefty promises from websites, but the more I looked into what was printed and the reviews, I was starting to believe it. My problem...My Z has a 15 year old paint job on it. Single stage, dual stage paint, is your best guess. The front was very glossy and the back was extremely dull, oxidized, and flat looking. I tried as I may with all the products that will work with an orbital buffer, but nothing helped. My paint still looked old and uneven. I decided a complete car detail and paint restoration was cheaper than a new paint job, so I gave Michael a ring. This guys is walking encyclopedia of all the latest and most high tech paint cleaning and shining techniques. He immediately went to work with a wash, clay bar, and countless polishing, cleaning, and finishing applications with his rotary buffer. Never did he look rushed to get away from my car, never did he seem to cut corners at any time. Took him just over 4 hours to do the job inside, out, and engine. The results were nothing short of amazing! If your wondering about the pop up canopy, thats his, and its for protection against the sun. I am telling you no detail is overlooked. Now if this sounds like a paid advertisement, well, its not. I paid for my detail in full. But the results were so good, I wanted to tell my local guys about it in case they have a car that needs some "back from the dead" restoration. We all have our limitations... mine starts when the orbital buffer will not work, as I have not mastered the skill of a rotary buffer yet. Rather than risk burning my paint, I called Michael. For the lazy, the cliff notes are his results were so good, that I can put off a new paint job for several years, as my car shines evenly from front to back now. I will post pictures of this miracle when the rain stops over my house...as I do not think garage pictures will do it justice.

Okay, I did some preliminary amp guage investigating today to try to troubleshoot my problem. First, here is my current guage. It stays like this whether the car is on or off, load or no load. Its stuck here... When I pulled my spare guage from the box... it looked like this, which is most likely more normal... So I started to remove the glove box, as I hear its fairly reasonable to get to from there. But when I was cleaning out the glove box, I found a set of fuses, and I thought I should check out the fusebox to see if any had blown... Picture with the cover on, notice where the Ammeter/Amp is called out... Now look what I found when I removed the front cover... One of these things is not like the others....one of these things is missing something.. can you guess what it is... I concede that my guage is probably in need of replacement, but would it even work if this other part of the fuse box is not in place? Should I be looking for another fuse box?

Hey, at least he has vision...a terribly warped one, but a vision...

roger wilco... I will let you know how it goes.

Well, I assume the alternator is fine, as my battery has never needed a charge and it runs my lights and accessories just fine. It stays pegged all the time, could a lose wire do the same thing, or are we talking fried gage. Could an aftermarket or different model year alternator do this.... I have no idea what the PO put on this thing.

My amp meter has been pegged off scale high since I bought the car, however, the fuel guage works fine, if not a little sticky. I have downloaded the factory service manual for the electrical portion, but all it says is ensure alternator is working properly...Which I am sure it is.. is there a simple test. I have a spare gage I can swap in, should I swap it out for my test, or is there something I can do before removing it.

I dont know fellahs, looks like snake oil. Low VIN does not mean much to me when its going to take 30,000 dollars to restore it at least. Money is better spent elsewhere if you ask me.

ditto, flickr, also does not resize your originals to some smaller miniscule size. Fickr pro is very reasonable as well. BAsically infinity space per month to upload, I have never used 1% of my allowable space. Its the best photo sharing sight on the net in my opinion.