d240zx2

Stephen! That grey/silver Z is stunning! I hope you get it!!! Frank

Then you have an R200 LSD. Valuable thing. Frank

What BeanDip said, yes, ditto. My original, but re-seamed and rodded radiator with a 180 thermostat serves quite well. I have never seen the temp above 200, even on a 95 degree day with air running and in slow, stop'n go traffic. Track temps never exceed 190 and I am really hammering it then. The key, I think, is total system health. Regards, Frank

Wish I could help. My 01/70, which I've driven most of it's 68,000 miles, never had the vibration you describe. The U-joint bolts at the differential came loose and caused a ruckus once, but never since. Frank

Hi, Marty. I experienced the same thing with drilled/slotted (solid) rotors using Hawk "blue" pads. I switched back to OEM rotors and problem went away. I don't know if your rotors are drilled/slotted, but that possibly could increase the amount of pad wear causing the deposit build-up. I'm still using stock calipers, so there may be an apples/oranges thing here. Frank

No man can be as tough as a Z. And women have it over us sackers in so many ways it's hard to list. Therefore, by the process of deduction/elimination, a Z can only be a woman. Us men lavish $$thousands on her. We abuse her constantly. We work her into a frenzy with high octane fuel, special oil, wheels and tires. Then we park her. In the garage. Under a cover so no one can see her. She waits....patiently, for us to pay her some attention. Again. When we do, we abuse her yet again when dodging cones or other cars on track day. Then we take her home, to the garage, under the cover....until we "need" her again. Yeah, a Z is purely female. Can't be otherwise. It just doesn't make sense. Frank

Turn 10 at Texas World Speedway is a 180 degree right-hander with about a 100 foot radius. Speed through this turn is approximately 35 mph and the g-forces are to the left. My Mikuni fuel pick-ups are on the engine side of the carb. Yep, the centrifugal force of the lengthy, relatively hi-G turn sloshes all the fuel away from the ports. Question: Does anyone know where I can find information on constructing baffles to minimize this fuel starvation problem? I've used the search function but not found any key-word matches. Thanks in advance. Frank

I'm running Windows XP Pro. If you're using something different, that may be the reason. Anyway, we tried. Frank

There is a difference in the harmonic balancer on early Z cars. Not sure about post-73 years. No, valve clatter is not normal. You need to check/adjust valve lash per the FSM. Having said that, you CAN hear some light valve train noise, but mine sounds the same cold or hot. Frank

Lots of work done, lots of work to do. Good luck on 15 August. BTW, if you live near Bryan/College Station, come on out to TWS somtime this week-end. I'd like to meet you! Look for the Z in my avatar. Regards, Frank

Go to the web page again. Right click on the page. Scroll down to page info. Select translate this page. That should help.:squareeye Frank

35 years ago, Doug, I found the mechanical pump to be limited in output. I removed it, built a blanking plate out of 1/4" mild steel plate (a bit of overkill, I know) and installed a Stewart-Warner thumper pump at the tank. It's still "thumping" and delivering fuel to triple Mikunis at about 5 psi under any throttle condition. If you decide to do something similar, you'll need to run a hot wire to the pump and insure that the pump mounting hardware is grounded well. I also blocked off the fuel return line to insure adequate pressure, but I'm not sure if that was really required. Again, a bit of overkill, but good fuel pressure and never a problem with vapor lock. FWIW. Frank

Ditto Stephen's comments. My triple Mikunis have no provision for vacuum advance, only for brake boost. Centrfugal advance is all you need. I, too, run the Pertronix ignition and the combination of that and Mikuni carbs is awesome. Frank

I had a "clunk" in mine early on during my restification process. Found it the diff-to-moustache bar mounting bolts had loosened. Tightened them up properly and no "clunk" since. Maybe a cheap way to end your problem. Frank

Aw, it's just the camera angle.

I'll bet that 510 is a scream'n rascal! Your projects are going to WOW everyone at any Z show you take 'em to. Good work! Frank

She's a beauty and you should bring home some hardware. Nice work!

Just checked the link to the sale. Seller took the unit down. Not for sale anymore and the auction was incomplete. Frank

I'm wanting to do the same thing to my panel. My tach is 500 rpm optimistic and the water and oil gauges are disconnected in favor of mechanical units mounted at the console. The Amp/Fuel gauge is still in operation. I want to remove the clock (I'm retired and don't care what time it is), install oil pressure gauge there, take out the water temp and replace it. The Amp/Fuel gauge will have to stay until some gauge maker makes an over/under that is the right size/style. My preference is Autometer, as was yours. Did you use the black or white background units? BTW, I think most speedos are mechanical units. Electrics would be nice, though, if available. Frank

I haven't had any success w/MightVac, either. I haven't tried the thread grease, though. Maybe that will help. Frank

That would get my vote, Paul, but I'm far, far from an expert. Frank

Since cavalier_man said it seemed like only his rears were working, my suggestion was to actually see if the rears were the only system that worked. Nothing more, nothing less. Frank

You could also re-route the fuel lines. Because of the placement of the OEM fuel pump at the front of the engine, fuel must travel from the pump, down the fuel rail alongside a hot valve cover over a hotter head/intake/exhaust manifold to get to the carbs. I've rerouted my fuel lines to the firewall, across the back of the engine to a fuel block on the left inner fender. From there, individual lines feed individual carbs. BTW, I blocked off the return lines to maintain higher in-line fuel pressure. Never have I had a vapor lock problem. Frank

"I was ready to change the mechanical fuel pump." I don't think changing the pump will fulfill your objective. Higher fuel pressure and/or lower temps prevents vapor lock. I'd suggest adding an electric unit either at the tank or in line before the mechanical unit to increase pressure at all times. Reducing underhood temps is a metal-bending endeavour with louvers, etc. My 2 cents. Frank

I run an old Stewart-Warner clicker (thumper?) fuel pump mounted at the tank, bypassing the mechanical unit completely....it's removed and the mounting hole is blocked off. I've set the pump for 4 - 6 psi, which is a bit on the high side for Mikuni carbs, but it seems to work quite well. I've also blocked off the fuel return line to insure adequate fuel supply to the three fuel suckers under full throttle. I've never had any problem with vapor lock or fuel starvation in turns at the track, so it must be working pretty well. Frank