d240zx2

Ignorance abounds between my ears. Would one or more of you please explain or describe a "Franken Engine" for me, please? I've never heard the term and Google didn't give me much to work with. Thanks!

What procedure did you use when performing the test?

Hi, Tyler. Sounds like you've got a nice ride and a VERY nice girlfriend. <sigh> The very first thing you need to do is get a Field Service Manual. If you'll use the "search" function, you'll find a link where you can download it for free. You'll not find anything in the manual on Webers, however, but there are several folks here who know them pretty well, so there's no lack of information in that regard. Good luck with the car. And as for your girlfriend, she's a keeper.

Yeah, but you're still young. You'll catch me....

OK, I'm old, so I have an advantage. Cars I've owned since being licensed to drive in 1960: In rough chronological order... and I'm sure I missed a few... 1956 Olds 98 Holiday Coupe:) 1958 Ford T-Bird 1960 VW bug 1965 Volvo 544 (I think. Looked like a 48 Ford) 1954 Ford 4 door 1963 Nash Metropolitan (I was young and on something, I guess) 1968 Mercury Montego 1965 VW bug 1968 Porsche 912 Targa 1968 Mercedes 230 1969 Mercedes 230 1957 Chevy 2 door sedan (Granny's old car) 1960 Mercedes 190 SL 1968 Mercedes 280 SE 1966 Mercedes 230 SL:love: 1970 Olds 98 2 door coupe 1970 Corvette 427 1970 Datsun 240Z (same car I have today):love::love: 1973 Mazda RX3 Wagon 1964 Chrysler New Yorker (square steering wheel) 1973 Chrysler Imperial 1977 Dodge 440 RamCharger 1978 Dodge 440 RamCharger 1980 Dodge Colt 1967 Chrysler Imperial convertible 1980 Olds 1980 Cadillac Brougham 1991 Cadillac Brougham 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee 1990 Nissan Maxima 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis 2002 Toyota Sequoia 1970 Cadillac DeVille convertible (gorgeous!) 1970 240 Z (again):love: 2002 Toyota Highlander 2002 Toyota Solara 2006 Nissan Altima 3.5 SE:love: 1998 Nissan Altima GXE And on the horizon is a G37S..... sometime.... Did I need to have a dealer's license, too?

Sounds more like a throw-out bearing issue than a transmission problem. Mine has a similar issue but it's not particularly bothersome. A mild noise when idling in neutral goes away when depressing the clutch. Not noticeable at all when driving....

The thread DIED three years ago. And YOU come charging out on your white horse seeking to slay a long-dead dragon. You started the mess you claim to want to avoid. Just let it drop back into the oblivion it was BEFORE you brought it back to life.

Real good RC control, don't you think? Excellent video, and it has the theme of a potentially big commercial. I like it!

Yeah, Bruce, you damned ol' engineers don't know nuthin'. We gotta re-do everything until you have to do it again. . That case study was an excellent example of what my poor attempt at humor was trying to illustrate.

Then why did you ressurect a three year-old thread?

I have two of them, Dave. Email your address yet again and I'll send the best one to you. Frank

I've had nothing but an electric pump for years. Fab a block-off plate from 1/8 to 1/4" plate, it's pretty easy to do. Use a gasket as your form and to seal the opening. My pump is a Stewart-Warner "clicker" pump putting out about 5 psi feeding triple Mikunis. Mounted externally of the gas tank, it feeds through a 3/8" line to a fuel distribution block, then to the individual carbs. An inline fuel filter in conjunction with the filter in the pump keeps gas clean to the carbs.

There are two flashers. One for the turn signals, the other for emergency. Which did you change out?

Caps... I may have an extra, Dave. I'll have to look to be absolutely certain. Today is ganging up on me with family stuff, so it may not be until tomorrow before I'll have a chance to dig around. If I've got an extra, I'll be glad to send it your direction. I'll let you know it's condition so you can decide whether you'd want it or not. Frank

Basic metric hand tools, i.e. sockets, OE & box end, pliers, wire cutters, you know, everything you have in the garage. The R200 is stronger with a typical ratio of 3.90, and coupled with a 5 speed gives much better performance than the OEM 3.36 R180. I'll never go back! The other parts/pieces are required for the changeover. Rear drums because they're getting more scarce. Alternator because of the higher output and internal regulator. Get Dave Irwin's headlight relay pak and his magic $15 plug to convert the alternator. Zsondabrain is his CZCC moniker. You will find more to love about your Z the more you bleed on it. Frank

Hey, Prowler. What's the tax situation in Barbados? You may want to look at various Craig's lists, primarily in the SW US. Ebay can also be a source, but be careful and get the car(s) inspected before you part with any serious money. This is the premier website for the classic Zs, but we're mostly oriented toward stock or slightly modified cars. As for V-8 engine swaps, you'd be better off checking with HybridZ. MSA (Motorsports Auto) is one source for body kits, but there are others. Hope that helped!

Consider the distaff side of this discussion. Will she be more or less willing/desirous to go for a ride with or without A/C? Like you, I was able to retrieve my car after a 30 year absence. My wife and I are both 30 years older, more susceptible to temperature and accustomed to environmental modification like we never were 30 years ago. Based on MY situation, I'd suggest sticking with the A/C, upgrading it as required, and enjoying it when needed. Frank

Probably emissions requirements....

Get the R200 diff, half-shafts, diff flanges, mustache bar, rear drums, alternator, along with whatever else you see that you can afford. Those items qualify well as "stealth" upgrades.

Dittos for all above. It's parked there for a reason, and your photos fully explain that reason. Walk, no, run away from this one.

I checked out Optima's website and found that a group 34 met the dimensional requirements precisely. Also, I had the parts store test the battery... found it just needed a charge (it's been 4 weeks since it's been started). So I put a charge on it, cleaned the terminals and cable lugs and "vroom!" off we go for a 30 mile run. That's $182.50 I won't need to spend for another little while. Y'all and all y'all drive safely, ya heah?

#14. I'd thought of that, but have only seen Optimas that are quite a bit shorter than the height required for hold-down bracket attachment. I'll check out their dimension selection to determine if I can use one. Thanks!

#5. My battery died this morning. What brand/part number battery did you find at Mossy that fits properly. The reason I ask is that my old battery is about an inch shorter than the original and I've had to shim it up with 1 x 2 wood pieces to allow the hold-down bracket to be tightened properly.

That looks exactly like mine.

A very rare car, Brian. Post up more pics of engine bay, interior, undercarriage, etc. Ask advice of Carl Beck, Arne, et al as to it's worth. Your step-dad had something and knew it. That's why he gave it to you. Take care of it. From a step-dad with similar plans for my step-son.... Frank