d240zx2

Aw, he was just your average, every-day, Nissan Ninja..... I see 'em all the time. Two hours, one way. One car per trip of 4 hours. You've got a full day ahead of you it appears. We'll look forward to hearing back from you and seeing some snaps of what you got for nuthin'. I hope you and we are pleasantly suprised!

That's my story and I'm stickin' to it.;-) I bought it new (1), sold it (2), bought it back (3). 1, 2, 3. I was a different person in 1977 than I am today. With Mukunis (and Webers), space is a bit limited on the left side of the engine bay. The horns are 3" in length which leaves about that much working space between them and the inner fender well. With the coil in the stock location, the first carb is limited even more as to air filter locations.... I've seen pics of a "box" type assembly that bolts to the carbs, the air filter hanging out on the front end via a tube you'd normally associated with a cold air intake for FI or turbo. Aesthetically, that config doesn't quite do it for me, but I know it works. I guess what I want is an insert for the horns that would allow a filtration effect equivalent to a K&N system, but would be removable and/or replaceable.

Getting ready for a track day on the 15th, so I thought I'd re-sync the 40mm Mikunis. To do that, I have to pull the K&N filter assemblies and bolt on the air horns, as the Uni-Syn won't mate up to the backing plate for the K&N filter assembly. After getting the sync done, I decided to take the old gal out for a bit of a romp before reinstalling the cleaned filters. Holy Moses! Did somebody put a 2.8 in the car today? The difference between filtered air and non-filtered air is phenomenal! That's all I can say! The sync wasn't off all that much, so I can only attribute the increase in performance to the lack of filtration/horns. Now to my question: Given the increase in performance which I'd like to retain for daily use, can someone point me in the direction to obtain a filtration system that will accomplish this? All recommendations and suggestions are welcome! Thanks in advance.

If a 38 Weber will bolt on, that manifold seems to be the one he needs....

Hello, Randy. Have you found a Z yet, or are you still looking? Any prospects locally?

21082-E3200 up to 07/71. Does not include fan. 21082-E8725 08/71 - 07/73. Appears to include fan.

A bodyman, decently skilled, does not require replacement panels. It may be less expensive, but replacement metal can be welded in and finished regardless of the amount of rust encountered without having to replace entire body sections. Just old-skool talkin'

What a deal, Free! Go get'em both. Do a good, thorough inspection. Take scads of pics. Put 'em on lifts if possible and look at the underside....more pics. Before trying to start either of them, do some research here about awakening a sleeping Z. Do it right and you'll be happy. Do it wrong and, well, you'll be tempted to bring out the .45.....

I wouldn't think so, Arne, but I was reading ONE carb, not two from his original post.

Well, David, alright. Just so the rest of the world knows.... I send my taillights to David for an upgrade to LEDs. Dave had 'em back to me within 10 days. Plugged 'em in and they worked fine... for about a month. My pretty wifey noticed the driver side light was dark when I applied brake. Called David. He said "Send it back!", which I did. Now, like a lot of women you hear complaining of the car NOT doing what you know it's doing when you take the car in for service... David called. Said the LEDs were working fine. I thought, "Uh-Oh. I've got a wiring issure." Not necessarily so, said David, even though his wife was thinking the same as me. The end of the story approaches.... David, while on the phone with me, starts speaking in a tongue I've never understood. That is the tongue of electrical engineer. He spoke of diodes. He spoke of double-dipped something-or-others encased in chocolate that he thought would solve my problem. Me, knowing that I didn't know what I didn't know, said "uh, sure David, whatever you think." Sure enough he was right. Those chocolate-coated whing - dings he put in the taillight assembly solved the problem and they've worked super fine ever since. I don't know who sells the chocolate to David Irwin, but whoever it is, sure sells good stuff....

That is pretty cool, Gary. It almost shows the shoulder-length hair you had back then....

Hmmm. You wish to use a single 38mm Weber? Is that just ONE 38mm Weber for the six cylinders? Help us out here...

The Holly conversion has had mixed reviews, knapper. Use the "search" function to find the good, bad and the ugly.... You may want to take a look at hybridz.org. They might have some stuff on it as well.

Never heard of one, Mike. The term "single Weber" just isn't as exotic as "dual" or "triple" Webers. I'd get ZTherapy's DVD on SUs and go from there.

Both of my front fender wells have factory markings with what appears to be a wax-based marker. I can't recall which number is where, but the number 17 appears on one side and the number 18 appears on the other. Anyone else notice this on your S30?

Generally, welding a bolt out is the quickest way to remove a broken bolt or stud, especially if broken off below the surface. Full Disclosure: I retired from this company 4 years ago.

It appears to me to be a bearing issue or possibly a worn spindle. Have you thoroughly inspected the inner and outer races and cages? Are the races loose in the hub?

Well, Chris, is wifey behind this project? If not, you're in for a terrible time.

My Z guru has one of these. He said he's saved a couple of thousand busted knuckles over the years by using it, and it's a bit faster, too. True, you can get by just hunky-dory without it, but hey, we're largely guys and guys need tools!

Webers (and Mikunis) only require 3 - 6 psi. Running at 8, you're likely overpowering the float's ability to seat the valve.

Wow! Even if it IS my baby, she sure looks better with new shoes!

No experience with the Crane product, but ZERO issues with my Pertronix.

After seeing the pictures, I'll agree with comments above. The car is a tad overpriced. Did any of you notice the write-up saying the tach was on the left and speedo on the right??? If I were buying, $8K would be my top.

Good shots, jmark. Congrats to Mr. Ira!

Hey, Matt. Glad to see you around again.