d240zx2

Hi, Matthew, and welcome. You'll find this site the friendliest board on the web. Use the search function frequently for your questions, but be sure to ask if you can't find an answer to a question. And, as StinkyCheese said, post some pics of your ride.

I, too, lack the lower splash shield. But at idle, would that lack have any effect?

"Amateur" is a kind word for incompetence.

Hey, Bryce, that club sounds pretty neat. Too bad I don't qualify.

phyreangel, the first thing you need to do is perform a thorough search on this forum for bringing a Z back to life. There must be, literally, hundreds of posts directed to that subject. Expect to spend several hours browsing what you find. Print the posts that you think offer detailed and specific do's and don't's so you won't have to mis-remember them later. Should you run across an issue that you can't resolve, we'd certainly be glad to help. To get you started, here's a short list of must-do stuff: 1. Dump the gas. Blow the gas lines. Change fuel filter. 2. Change all other engine fluids, e.g. oil & coolant, including hoses. 3. Flush brake lines and bleed. 4. Replace the battery. In pretty much that order. That oughta keep you going for three or four days.

My Mikuni-carbed Z actually goes the other way. Cold, it farts and stumbles and idles at ~600. Warmed up it settles in at ~900. I figure it's the carbs needing the heat from the headers to properly mist the fuel. No change in idle speed at stop lights. Frank

It's likely a dirt issue that causing the "wank" sound. You can disassemble it, clean out any identifiable detritus, and see if that helps. At least that's what I'd do.

P-nix sounds like a lovely 2.5K mile outing for my Z, if my right leg can handle the job (so used to cruise control). My old Z is driven as often as I can get to it, typically about 500 miles per year (way less than I'd like to drive it). Two years ago, I had more track miles than road miles on it. Just turned 73K miles. Here's a challenge for all y'all.... my step-son narrates. http://www.royalpurple.com/reelwars/

Good suggestion, Bruce...

It appears you've got a vapor return line/fuel return line blocked. Look on the passenger side toward the front under the hood on the fender wall. You'll find three steel lines there, one of which is the fuel supply line (the larger one). Remove the rubber from the other two and using compressed air, blow each of the lines. If this doesn't solve the problem you've likely got a collapsed or deteriorated hose at the tank causing blockage.

Sounds like you have some compromised connections, Bob. Old cars have electrical corrosion problems literally everywhere. Become a pretzel and work your way under the dash, unplug and clean every connector you can find and replug. Dielectric grease wouldn't hurt, either. Clean every ground you can find.

Could have a flasher issue or a switch problem. The turns and hazards use separate flashers.

Excellent description, Bob. I'd change the electrode selection, however, to completely avoid weld spatter, as 6011 has globular transfer rather than the spray transfer of some high-strength stainless-based rods.

And me.

Got a Craftsman aluminum jack 4 years ago. Goes under the Z and lifts high enough for jackstands. A single pump lifts to touch. A good unit.

Yeah, when my rich uncle dies I might wanna get one.....

Had the same issue. It was a combination of a weak ground and a poor fuse connection. Fixed it, and with Dave's upgrade package, they're brighter than ever.

You can gain some HP(~25) by doing some relatively simple stuff, although not without some expense. Headers, cam, carbs. Assuming your engine is up-to-snuff in terms of compression, et al, you can gain some moderate increase in power, but not the monster numbers you wrote of in your original post.

Oooooh.... That's old...

Has anyone any information of the well-being of Mr. K after those horrible earthquakes and tsunamis? Frank

He's trying to disguise the probable fact that the compressor is junk.

Panasport is considered the "Cadillac" of Z wheels and are pretty expensive new. As these are "like new," $700 may be an OK price. Panasport also made/makes a racing wheel that is similar, if not the same, in appearance as their street wheel. The racing wheel is more prone to failure in street use because of curb hits, big potholes and other obstacles to smooth motoring. I'd inspect them closely before buying as small cracks may not show up real well in photos. I chose Konig Rewinds (a Panasport look-alike) but still a good quality wheel for a fraction of the seller's asking price.

There should be a difference between manual and auto radiators. The auto will have a separate inlet/outlet for the tranny fluid, generally at the bottom of the radiator. I suppose you could use an auto radiator for a manual tranny if you plugged the inlet/outlet connectors on the radiator. Don't know for sure, but it makes a bit 'o sense to me.

I think most any color of that era is attractive on these cars. The non-black interiors are more rare and more difficult to find, but adds "character" to the car. It all boils down to how YOU want the car to look, not what someone else might think. Good luck with your quest!

Pictures would help us determine a response.