m4xwellmurd3r

hmm....I had a similar problem with mine. I found a bigger screwdriver and put all my weight at the end of it to twist it out. the p/o had to cut slots into 2 screws for the same reason. I went on ebay and ordered a set of brand new screws so I don't kill myself trying to work with those stripped screw heads

yeah, a half gallon isn't enough. I ran my Z out of gas once and had to put at least 2 gallons in to get her fired up properly (and I thought I had gas, till I looked at my clear filter I have before my fuel pump, and saw it sucking bubbles intermittently)

it's telling you that your car has a build date of 12/72 and has the serial number 139079 Vin codes didn't come out till the 80's (the ones that tell useful information about your car) so all your car has is the build date and the serial number (basically just an ID number saying your car is number 139079/XXXXXX cars basically, it tells you absolutely nothing useful for restoring it to original.

Wow not only is it a REALLY clean looking 72 he even throws in a spare tranny, a set of fenders AND headlight buckets (and I know those buckets/fenders aren't exactly cheap) AND a spare hood.

Yeah, I've never heard of a frame being damaged from a high power engine by not strengthening the frame and using strut bars. I could see it happening in the series 1 Z's though (and I think I've heard of a case where a high torque V8 had caused wrinkles in the firewall) I'm not totally sure but isn't the weight increase between the series 1 Z and the later Z's due to frame strengthening.

To see if your controller is bad, I suppose you could get a test light, and plug it into one of the injection plugs, then crank the car to see if they're clicking the injectors like they should. As for the injectors being stuck, I'm not too sure how to check that.

ESPECIALLY that head temp sensor. the car will never start if that thing's wonky. checking spark is easy. pull out the plug and set it on somthing like your fender or the valve cover, crank it and see if it has a nice blue crackling spark.

If a Z is so rusted that it should be put to rest, I don't think a car crusher is a good idea. I'd rather just let it sit in the yard, with air in the tires and keeping it as clean of weeds/plants as I can, and just let it rust away in peace. basically just give it a nice place to rust haha.

Regarding the 260z's vin, the 260 got the RLS30 while the 240z and 280z got the HLS30 and crushing Z's.....that's like taking a puppy with a broken leg and shooting it in the head just because his legs broken.

I would get the entire system ceramic coated, but that's just me XP rust protection and as far as I know, does a good job of protecting against chips and stuff.

NGK plugs/wire. As far as a dizzy cap, not really sure. I'm not sure it really matter's too much.

I found on a 280z that the fronts are 16in and the rears are about 15.5in. fronts 100lb/in rears 125lbs/in but that's on a 280z. the 240z's i know are lower.

Mostly because iirc the VW convertibles are a LOT rarer than our Z's. a 79 going for 14k is nuts though. but I'm sure an even earlier model would go for more. a guy sold a 9 second turbo/nitrous STREET vw convertible (don't remember exact year, but it was an early model) for 36k. But I'd say most of the price was for the 9 second california street legal part. but still, 12k is impressive for a car that's not 100% perfect.

wow, that sounds horrible! I rebuilt my fan clutch not too long ago. The issue with mine is hardly noticable, but from what he's describing, it's a really loud sound like yours. Guess we just have to wait for a sound bite.

It could be if the clutch is adjusted in such a way that the throwout bearing just touches the clutch when it's let out, I know mine makes a funny noise kind of like that but only when it's in neutral. It stops when I start moving. For me I think it's a bearing on my mainshaft. I probably need to change the oil in my transmission. but mines quiet. From what you describe it's quite a loud sound. is it?

Well, the pressure doesn't go higher than what your rad cap is rated to, which isn't too high I wouldn't worry about the pressure as long as it's not over heating. and just around half way on the stock gauge is operating temp.

Does it only happen when you have the clutch in? It might be something like the throwout bearing dying.

, my airbox is too nice to do that to. I'd sell mine and find a rusty one first.

Yep it's the same kid asking the same question. Don't tear up an old car you can't fix. And don't bother trying to find someone who will buy it once you break it with your crazy stunt. I'm only 19 and I know better than to try and do crap like that. I'm always afraid that if I drop the clutch with too much revs my poor girls going to break a joint somewhere.

Yeah, if I ever go with an aftermarket intake, it would mostly be for the look and sound, rather than any performance gain.

yeah, 1024 stretches it a bit, but only because of our sidebar. if not for that it would be fine. I'm not sure if i'll put a cold air on my car yet. I just pulled the snorkel of the stock intake so now it's getting fresh air from the grill instead of the engine bay *shrugs* I think it gets plenty of air. But maybe I'll fab up a cold air for stupid cheap haha.

Hmmm, he doesn't have the 517 listed on there for the 280z . Mine doesn't say what type of paint it uses either. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v230/half_breed/My%20Z/DSC06847.jpg

At least you see fuel going through yours. Once I had a similar problem, and when i looked at that filter it was sucking air. I ran it out of gas >_< whenever my car won't start the first thing I do is spray some sort of starter fluid into the intake to find out if it's a fuel problem or a spark problem. If the car starts then dies on the starter fluid, it's a fuel problem, if not, it's probably a spark issue. Might not be the best way to figure things out, but for me it gets me on track.

I hate emissions >_< I haven't been able to drive my car because of it, BUT because of that, I found out that cylinder 3 was leaking compression and the head was dying for a valve job haha. It should pass with flying colors now AND be in 110% better shape then it was when I bought it. Emissions suck, but as long as you make sure your car's in top shape and nothings all weird like mine was, it should pass fine. And Sblake, where did you get your portable exhaust analyzer? how much was it?

20w-50 is 50wt oil at 100c so yeah, 30wt is a lower viscosity oil than 20w-50 multi grade oil is only really good for places that see cold temps (like, freezing cold) I live in arizona, single grade is fine. (I run VR-1 20w-50 in my Z, but I'm in Arizona, higher viscosity helps) How many miles are on it? as far as I know, a higher viscosity oil in an older engine isn't really a bad thing.