TomoHawk

I found out the Ford units use a stepper motor, so it should be inherently proportional, if you can figure out how to get the motor to move the right amount.. Since the L28E is an electronically-controlled engine, it's more appropriate to use similar parts when upgrading. So far, it looks like the best thing is the original Bosch unit, so when you get a new one, get several.

You could just get one of those electric fan thermostat switches? It would provide instant on-off functionality, which would probably drive you nuts, huh? If you want real "analog" idle control, then you'd want to add in a transistor to control your air valve. That assumes you've got an air valve that you can open partially. IMO, a stepped opening (full-open, half, closed) would be better than just open-closed. After quick search I found that the Fords have something similar, but I couldn't tell if it was a proportional thing or on-off, and you'd need to modify the intake, but it was dirt cheap ($30 new,) so you could get one at the JY easily (probably.) It's just not the flow-through design that thew L28 engines use (so we keep looking.)

You'll still need to run wires inside to a switch, unless you can devise some kind of timer or temperature-controlled switch.

I remembered the warming plate because I found it in my tub of "unneeded spares" after the engine was installed! Unfortunately, the L28 engines don't have the coolant "temperature switch" that the earlier engines had, but I think you could install one in the same location. That way you'd at least have a way to activate some kind of valve at the right engine temperature (when it's "warm") and not really needing to watch the temperature gauge, or run more wires inside and install a switch. If you couldn't install the OEM coolant switch, I think you can get a temperature switch that you could probably bolt on to the thermostat box.

IIRC, there is supposed to be a block under the AAV with coolant going through it, so it should be experiencing the actual engine temperature, instead of the temperature of the intake manifold, which is shielded from the exhaust manifold to stay 'cool.' I"m surprised that it doesn't fail about a year after it's installed, as the element inside stays (hot) all the time that the engine is on. There ought to be a kind of manual electric valve that you can control from the driver's seat. I keep thinking of the choke units on carburetors... How do those work?

Isn't there a way to substitute a solenoid-operated valve or similar that won't fail after a few years?

Things are reassembled now, but maybe I can get something.

I was able to push the eyelet through the spark plug boot easily with some silicone grease, but for some reason, I couldn't get the boot over the stud on the alternator. I don't think it will be a problem, as long as I keep the area and connections clean. If I find something better (or just bigger) I will try it later, but the spark plug boot was a good idea.

There was no need to remove the entire dash panel. I took out the glovebox, centre console, etc., and the HVAC tech guy was able to install all new rubber vacuum lines in an hour. He says the vacuum sound was from a leak in the main hose to the intake. So I reinstalled everything today, and I now have full control over the heater functions. Now I can drive around until November, in comfort and have a clear windscreen (after a brief warm-up.)

Since I can't see up there or get up there with my hand, I can't can give you an answer to that. Sorry, but thanks for the picture anyway.

I looked into this, and after removing the glovebox, there is nothing you can get to, except the defroster nozzle & hose. This vacuum hose is not reachable, and so is beyond my abilities.

There was never any air-conditioning stuff in the car ever since I had it. but it's the vacuum line. I squeezed it, and the sucking noise stopped. I traced it up as far as I could reach, but I will remove the glovebox to see what else I can see. Do you even need that one? I only hear the noise when I use the heater or defroster. thxZ

In a 280Z, can you reach the to of the water valve to replace the vacuum hose without have to take the whole dashboard out? Maybe you can you just reach in where the heater core is?

Do you mean 'fuzzy' push-in fasteners/rivets along the top? I was thinking of using some nice screws or another type of push-in fastener/rivet.

ZCCA rules are only to be used at sanctioned ZCCA events, and your local traditions are probably different. If you want to let people get up close, just minimize your display. The wind and anything else can be easily accommodated.

The tradition is to have any display on the ground in front or next to the car, so the sign needs to be on a support. Also, ZCCA rules require any display to be on an easel in front of the vehicle.

I think some of the corrugated plastic sign board will come in useful. You can attach the vinyl to it and use whatever glue or tape you like around the edges and the entire sign is supported, and won't sag. It's also flexible like the Lexan, waterproof, and protects the vinyl from rain. Plus it's minimal and very lightweight, which was my goal.

The information is printed on a large piece of white vinyl, so it shows anything you might use as an adhesive. I think they use a large inkjet printer, so I was considering adding a graphic or a photo.

Whatever you spray on the sign will show through the Lexan window. I think he 3M77 has a yellow color? Too bad you can't get clear spray glue. Maybe some clear double-sided adhesive tape dots; It would minimize what you see through the Lexan. Where do you get those?

OK, so you want to build a display or sign with information about your car to hang on an easel so people can read it... I have a large lexan sheet with the bottom bent back like a foot to support the thing on the ground or a table, and the sign is a big sheet of vinyl (about 20 x 22 inches) with stuff printed on it at the copy center. The problem is; how do you stick the vinyl to the lexan? You could tape it on the edges, which looks sloppy. You could use double-sided tape around the perimeter, but you'd have to put a few strips in the center to support the center, and that will stick out too. What other options are there, besides using a backing of plywood, card or more Lexan, which adds weight? Has anyone else made a sign for their car? thxZ

If you had a 'stock' class with a limit of the number of customizations, what would you do with the vehicles that are over the limit? They should probably get moved to a group with more customizations or to a 'modified' class, but that sounds like a lot of extra paperwork, to re-class the entry. Probably a (hefty) penalty for the extra customizations would be in order, in stead of a disqualification from the class altogether.

I don't take pictures of my car. You could sell plastic engine covers that say Corvette on it.

Are you open to suggestions for Books, Software, and Parts? I figure the books page would involve Amazon.com or similar, but how would the club get a cut? I would expect mostly historical books about the marque and Mr K., and maybe a couple on rebuilding or restoring stuff. There's already lots of suggestion for parts, like license plate frames, but I wish I had one of the old Tweeks catalogs- it had all kinds of stuff you'd like to get, like key chains, watches, cups/mugs. cafepress.com does a lot of business with the small clubs, so that might help with the little do-dads people like to buy. In fact, a quick check of cafepress.com for "z car" has a few Z/240Z/280Z shirts/clothing, hats, decals, a clock, a calendar, a shopping sak, and a mug.

Dave- It's good to see you're still here.

I like Mr. Stokes' notion of a 'stock' class with a limit to the number of customizations, and a modified class with sponsors or not. a 'stock' vehicle would be difficult to define exactly, but it wouldn't be to difficult to pick out what things are probably not original/normal parts, if you know approximately when the vehicle was made. But what would you do with the outliers; vehicles that are in a stock class but with too many customizations? Modified vehicles are costly, so unless the owner has deep pockets, sponsors help a lot, and a sponsor that is some kind of restoration or customization shop can be a superior advantage over a vehicle whose owner does his own work. Also, being able to distinguish if the owner did the restoration or customizations with hand-made or off-the-shelf parts can help to segregate things in another way. This then brings up another conundrum: it seems possible that a vehicle can fit into one or more classes, so you take some time to figure out which one you'd have a better chance to compete in.