TomoHawk

You can visually check the TPS yourself by removing the cover and operating the throttle rod. at idle, one set of contacts are closed, then as you open the throttle they open (no contacts touching) then at about 2/3 open the other set of contacts close. You don't need a mechanic to test that. And if the contacts or connection needs cleaning, you can spritz them with DeOxit (you DO have some, right?) I'm leery myself of "former Datsun mechanics." There is one near me, and I asked him to look into the high idle I get when warm. (vacuum leak?) The first thing the guy told me is "your Idle air motor isn't connected and the MAF was changed. The computer was changed too." HUH? It's a 40-year-old engine with (early) EFI.. It reminds me of when I asked the guy at the e-check station to run the sniffer in the exhaust. The first thing he said was, "where is your OBD port?" An older guy had to tell him there wasn't one...

HI Bill, There's nothing wrong with commenting about how an "upgrade" may not really BE an upgrade. The knowledgeable enthusiast should definitely know the facts from all points-of-view, to weigh them according to his experience or expectations, and then decide. As you mentioned, I would probably do this upgrade because of the lack of new or replacement parts, and if that one part (the ignition unit) fails, the whole car is useless, but for a big paperweight (or trophy?).... the alternative would be to wire in a different ignition system (like points) or to swap out the engine. Besides, this is a discussion forum, so go discuss things! BTW- During some of my online research, I read that the GM ignition module is actually capable of going to the higher RPMs, but that the coil was what really limited the performance.

In the beginning, they actually used a thin wafer of silicon, like a potato chip, but thinner.

It might be pathetic, but it sure gets your attention! That's probably why...

The really net thing about "chips" is how they got that name.

Google is a fine resource for searching, but posting links without explaining what it's for or why one would want to follow it isn't.

You will sill have to use regular adhesive tape to secure the ends.

After I researched the tape, I found that 3M 88 has the best features for automotive use. The only problem with that and most every other kind of PVC electrical tape, is that it only comes in a 3/4 inch width, which looks awful when wrapped. IMO, I think 1-inch is what you'd want. Does Loom Tape come in anything besides the non-adhesive type?

I agree totally with you Julio, although I've never driven a 240Z. The 280Z did "feel" kinda heavy from any car I've ever driven, but you get used to it and adjust your technique to compensate. But the visceral quality is one I learned from cycling, and it is what makes the 280Z the car I would pick over any car you can get today; most being over 3,500 LBS. or 1000 LBs. heavier than my 280Z. BTW- my road bike weighs only 20 LBs., compared to the 42 LBs. of the mountain bike.

Who's going to write this up for ZCCM Magazine? You'll only get a 1-page article, but it'll probably get some attention from engineers that aren't members here, to get even more development or refinement. You could also put it into GrassRoots Motorsport.

I'll add that the parts I dipped in black Plasti-Dip (some wiring holders/wraps) are still in good condition despite them being on top of the intake manifold. the black electrical tape (the cheap kind) on the wiring, however, did not do so well, and is unwrapping.

I was able to get one from eBay, and it was either a dud, or you just can't hook it up to a car battery. Without a wiring diagram for the vehicle it was from, I can't do anything more to get it to work. The odd thing about this unit is that it is pretty much a mechanical chime like your average house doorbell. there is a Durite Buzzer, 12 volt Cd1 - 0-562-00 that is an electronic unit, but I can't locate a sound file or video for it to confirm the kind of sound it actually has. Maybe someone can share their knowledge of the Durite chime?

In that case, buy a large number of similar plugs of any convenient size, patch the area with something, cut a hole for the new plugs, and use those instead.

What are those for, anyway? There shouldn't be water leaking in from anywhere, so you shouldn't need any kind of drain hole. Do people clean the carpets using a garden hose?

It looks like the newer engines have the IAC controller on the intake manifold, and the ECU must be compensating for the extra air. So right now, now matter what kind of valve system you use, it looks like you can't get away from the same kind of idle air arrangement, meaning you need to gt it from the same point on the intake tube, which is something that gets dried out over time and cracks from the vibrations.

Those later ones are really big, which is fine for an ordinary passenger car. On a sporty car, I like to minimize stuff

I made a quick sketch of the solenoid-operated AAR. It gets fresh air directly from what's under the hood, through a small filter. I suppose you'd hear a little sucking noise from it. The wires go to an electronic timer or switch/relay.

The (problem) with using something like a solenoid valve is that you need a switch or timer to control it. A timer shouldn't be too tough; you can use the same circuit as the AAR itself for power and build a simple timer from an IC with some kind of a temperature sensor (a thermister switch?) Closing the valve slowly would be nice, hence the stepper motor in the Idle Air Controller, but if you have a long enough wait, a sudden close should be tolerable. BTW- It should be made to fail in the closed state, just in case, IMO.

A little web search today turned up a new item, the Pertronix D2070 Module, GM HEI 4-Pin that is supposed to "Operate misfire free up to a minimum of 7,500 RPM." but at $50, is it worth the small advantage?

Considering the size of the opening inside the valve (it's NOT a motor, like techs will call it :pirate: ) then you could just use some small solenoid-operated water valve, and plumb it directly to one of the unused vacuum ports on the intake manifold using small-diameter hose, instead of the big hose that comes from the manufacturer. You only have to plug the unused hole near the throttle.

If you have a warm place to work, I'd start with the electricals and connectors (using DeOxit 100) because you can take the interior out to do a lot of it. You can still drive it n the meantime, to start prioritizing the mechanical repairs. BTW- you can't use the phrase resto-mod, because it's copyrighted by the Mustang Club of America. :laugh:

IMO, the 240Z is what people think is more desirable because it was the first Z car. Everything after that is just a kind of sequel. I agree that the later 280Z models are just better for riving because they had more comforts as standard equipment and are even more serviceable than the 240Z. I'd also say that parts, like interior panels, etc. are also more available, as people are either hoarding 240Z stuff, or the 240Z parts are just tougher to find. Oh- the electrical system of the later models are a little better designed and just work better , IMO.

Maybe the fuel pump will run if you have no oil pressure, nut I do know that the last time I pulled of the connector from the oil pressure sensor, the engine immediately stopped.

The link is for an Amazon item. Did you get the speakers from Amazon or Walmart?

that depends on your attitude towards classic cars. You might appreciate it when people put in modern, machine made, parts and engines just for the purpose of going fast or getting a project done fast, or you may appreciate the patience, skills, and real talent it takes to create the parts of the car, like the body panels and engine and chassis parts, like they did when the automobile was invented. In fact, back then, one person built the ENTIRE car! I appreciate the latter; it's just too easy to stuff new parts in an old chassis. You can just go to your local new car dealer and buy it ready-made and save all the work.