TomoHawk

No, no, no........ The poll is supposed to allow you to pick ALL of the things (upgrades) that you will do (or did, or want). You just get to vote once, for any one or all of the things that pertain to you. That's why you get all the boxes to click on. Not just one item per person. Will, Where did you get the idea that I think you're only allowed to vote once for only one item?

That's what I said. You only get one vote- for whatever you want to pick. If you come back later, it tells you that you've already voted.

I can't vote twice, so how do you think people can get more than 1 vote? It even says near the top,"Voters: 53. You have already voted on this poll." thx

Well, I'm whining because I couldn't even ge there- S30 or not! I winder why few S30s were there- intimidated?

You ain't kidding. How many egg-shaped-twin-turbo blobs with the big hole on the front can you get in one place? And thay all had the same wheels, too. I think that's why I don't like those new "z-cars." They are just blobs with no style. Not as unique as the S30 was. I hope somebody will put a few S30 pics in there...In case they didn't realize it, Nissan DID EXIST before 2003, or even 1990. (300zx)

Since it's now Monday morning, maybe we should change the topic to "Who WENT at the Z-fest?" I wanted to go, but couldn't get away from school/work/kid's birthdays.. Haven't seen my Tapanian friends since fall.

My car don't wear no skirt. And the damn thing pushes plenty of air, and "sounds" fine. Mine gets some of all the necessities ( tinting or a/c not needed in Ohio). Cleaning, polish, later some paint, and a little juicing (electrical).

I'll print those out and read them. Some of the pictures look interesting and similar to the efi L28 engine. thx

Have you removed your thermal vacuum valve yet? Do you know what the threads are, so I can get a plug for the hole?thx

I tried the (new) chat room, but it "couldn't connect to the database." Maybe we could ask the boss to setup a Java system temporarily?

Exactly, Will. With all the neato sportscar stuff and handling parts already on a Z, like the great suspension & handling, quick steering, torquey engine, trans (some have standard trans) you don't really NEEED to add anything (if much) to make a Z a 'sports car.' Just go through everything and clean it up ( I removed some things I thought never belonged in there like a/c), maybe some new bushings & springs, and tune it to death and you have a really neat car- maybe even better than new?

Why cut down on the weight in the rear, to even out the weight distribution? My 280Z weighs in at about 2700 lbs and saving 20-30 lbs doesn't seem like much, unless you do it in at least 5 or 6 places ( or about 100-200 lbs.)

I'm just suggesting that you either keep the top section of the OEM panel for the window fuzzy, or form the panel to hook onto the window slot, and a fuzzy/rub strip and cover the bare metal with something so ou don't leave the skin from your your arm on the sill on a hot sunny day (ouch!)

he mentioned he already fiddled with the switch, but I think he should try taking the switch totally out of the circuit to see if the problem still exists. With the switch out, the lights should not be on, unless there is a short.

I thought of the switch straight way too. Did you try disconnecting the brake switch completely? If the light still won't go out, then you're going to have to start probing with a test light. I think you might first call your paint shop to ask if somebody was working in the car ( maybe messed with your wires) or some other obvious incident to cause a short.

I'm not really into powdercoating, and I prefer the natural look of the metal. I've been using clear polyurethane on the suspension parts, but these brackets have so many corners and joints that it would be hard to get an even coat of pain on all the surfaces. I will probably shine it a little first. I think I will take a look at the Eastwood stuff. Duplicolor has a paint called "etalcast" that looks like anodizing. It says 500 degrees (intermittent) so maybe it'll hold up to the heat in the intake area long-term. Is there a DIY Cadmium kit? thx

I've been taking certain pieces off the top of my fuel-injected L28 engine and cleaning them individually, and I plan on re-installing the stuff before I go after the injector rail. So far I took of the AFM and the Aux air regulator. there were some steel brackets that I removed that hold hoses in place. These were 'protected' by a layer of crud, but after cleaning it looks like it's bare steel. I'd like to protect these in some whay before I put them back on. I've heard of people soaking chain in ATF or some mineral oil or something to prevent rusting. Any thoughts? I'm going after the fuel rail soon. Engine looking too nice now to drive around and re-rust them. :disappoin Air Regulator-- Does the Aux air regulator come apart? I'd like to clean & lube the inside, and check the heater element. The atlanticZ club article (AtlanticZ Club Tech Section)shows the thing apart, but I don't see an easy way to open it. The outside is easy enough to clean. thx

I think it's OK to do small parts at home. anithing bigger than, say a brake caliper, should go to a commercial outfit.

If you just wanted a heated box, why not just strip down an electric oven, or better yet, take the coils from the top and mount them inside, or on the sides. Do you think you could uncoil those heating elements from the stovetop and make your own pattern for rthe inside?

My L28 has the ECU/EFI fusible link coming straight of the positive side of the battery. Look for it coming out of the battrery clamp.

Did you heat from the top, or from the back? It makes sense to me to heat the underside, so only a thin layer next to the metal softens and you have minimum cleanup after removal, and it doesn't all melt and flow into worse places.

I think those kits you saw on the Classic car sows is from the Eastwood company. ( www.eastwoodco.com ) Just don't use your kitchen stove. Get a spare in a shed or garage.

I would disagree also. The EFI system electronic, and isn't more complicated than a set of synchronized carbs. You've got a couple temperature sensors, a trottle position sensor, and an air-flow sensor. The rest is just the wiring to turn on the injectors. The ECU isn't any more complicated than a good MSD controller, and don't confuse the car's electrical system with the EFI system! Even the auxillary stuff like the EGR valve, Aux Air system, intake warmers, etc., are all mechanically-based and separate from the EFI stuff. Carbs are more on the 'mechanical' side with a choke cable, inside are bowls, floats, needles and jets...

I'd like to ask if you can figure out a way to use electrolytic reversal on wiring? And copnnectors. 'thx

If you had aluminum door panels, you would need a way to hook it to the top of the door, like the stock panels. then you would need to mount the window fuzzy on it to keep the window from rattling. Then would you just put the bare metal all the way over the top of the door? In the sun, it would get really hot & burn your arm, so you might want to cover the top part with some cloth. Instead, I was going to use the top few inches of the stock door panel, with the fuzzy and vinyl on it, and attach the aluminum to that and go the rest of the way to the bottom.