TomoHawk

It's only $85,000. It must a really low serial number.

Is anybody watching the Bull Run rally on Spike TV? (Tuesdays 10p, re-airs Thursday 11p) What do you think about the format of this rally; the day part is a 300 - 400 mile run from one city to the next, then an "Extended competition" (obstacle course) in the afternoon or evening, then a night run to the next city. I like giving the teams a choice of a chosing the highway course, called "highway" or driving on their own routes, called "my way." Picking up a time bonus on the "my way" route seems to be a great thing if you're a little behind in time. The best thing about the road course part is that they aren't making a big thing about the cars driving 100+ MPH the whole time, because they aren't. It just shows that you can compete at legal speeds. busting the bulbs in the obstacle course looks like fun, but some of the teams don't really like having to scratch up the paint to do it. I'm not sure I'd like that even with the bumpers on the 280Z. Aren't those bulbs filled with Mercury vapor? the flag babes are a nice touch, but I think they could rethink their costumes just a little, and they don't smile much. maybe a $10 fine for every time the TV camera catches them not smiling will fix that. They initially said that the Bull Run rally is for exotic cars? I don't see how a Honda, or a TransAm or W-30 Olds is considered exoytic? And that cars are supposed to be invited to compete, but even that is a strange thing. According to the Sponsor, you need to get your car on CarDomain, and people vote on it to get into the rally. Any of you west coast guys notice the rally or the TV support crews? thx

The sill plates on my 280Z have the lengthwise serration pattern (no "Datsun"), and the kickplates are longer with a strange tongue on the front end.

stick it out the back withthe hatch open. Turn the volume up and you'll have liftoff!! Or at least an extra 12 Hp, which equates to about 10MPH.

You probably need to decide if you just want a tank that holds water, and a pump to squirt it, or an authentic-looking thing. If you are lucky, you might find a tank that's the same with the integral washer pump, but a diffent cap. Swapping the caps should make it work. thx

I decided to strip my scuff plates since the vinyl was pulling up from scuffing and on its own even. One was just about perfect, and the other had a small problem area that probably can't be seen unless you look well. If it's rusted, I suggest you look into the reason, like a leaking door seal or leaking elsewhere. I also sanded of any oxidation, and polished it a little with steel wool. I plan on coating it with some black bedliner stuff. It won't be a wrinkle finish, but it'll be better than vinyl. Maybe some creative sanding or pressing on a leather pattern while still soft will give it a krinkle look. Now, the aluminum sill plates are a different story. I've polished those things for weeks, and still can't get them "shiny," like show judges expect. Maybe one of those drill-gadgets? thx

Many of the Japanese cars share a lot of the same "kinds" of parts. Looking at them in the JY would probably help you find something similar. In this case, probably any reservoir of the right shape would work, with mounting it to the Z car being the biggest problem.

Uh- sorry about that- I forgot. There's really no place to put a mounted CB in a Z, so I had to get a handheld.

You must be having some fun trying to talk into your handheld CB with that stiff antenna cable connected directly to it.

How can you get a set of "struts" for $350 when one single strut goes for $350 - $650? Are you people sure you're talking about the right part?

I have a set of Motorolas, and a set of Cobras, and something cheap fir the kids. It's the same deal with every radio. thx

I'll see if I can locate a manual headset. Maybe it's the little speaker on the FRS radios that make it sound bad.

Very good information, thanks. I'm going to keep the stock R-180 diff, and enjoy the ultra-low revs and fuel mileage on the highway.

Our club is leaning towards the CB rdios lately because the FRS radios really do seem to be "cheap," meaning that the range is too short for anything less than a tight caravan group, and the sound was really bad- especially if you have the volume high enough to drown out the Z's engine. I've tried a couple of the headsets, but either they couldn't handle the engine sound or the wind sound from the open window, or the radios were not working right, so as soon as you plugged in, they would start transmitting, and you had to turn it off to fix it. The only reason I could justify getting a (handheld) scanning CB is to scan the area where you are, say after you exit the highway to a town, or before getting back on, to locate locals for local traffic info , or for emergencies, when you just need to find the first person who could help. Do you mean GMRS radios? What's a license run? hard to get? What are you doing for the antenna on your handheld in the car? thx

That's the one. The bottom one (blue) is the 12V supply, and the other two (red & white stripe) are the up & down (280Z FSM page BE-74 - 77.) I forget which is which. Make sure the key is on before hitting the switch. FYI, the connector on the antenna itself will fit that, in case you have to. Try to get a dead antenna off ebay cheap, like I did. Then clip the connector, and put a SPDT monentary switch on it. I might have one more connector. thx

the 983 Maxima has the L28 engine in it, and a 4 spd auto with Overdrive & lockup torque converter, so I would relate it to a 280Z in mileage, and maybe speed, but according to this web page, it had a 3 spd trans with a final rive ratio of 3.54:1. It's probably the usual transmission ratios for a sedan. The only problem is that none of the web pages I read stated that the Maxima had a 4 speed trans. :hurt:

This is the car I'm considering for this project. I comes assembled with a radio, so all you'll need is to put in the charged batteries and put on the body. It's called a "truck," but it sure looks like a sedan BODY to me. The Traxxas line is all good stuff. It's not dirt cheap, but it's well made, and very affordable. Probably around $100 plus shipping (New.) Don't go out and buy one yet, unless you want to play with the car for a while. thx Here is an eBay auction you might check out: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150105696608

Ill agree that the cars should be set up like good stock car ( but not as good as a stock Z) And people should go from there in their own way. Maybe even a moratorium on mods for a time, say until AFTER the Daytona show. If you are interested in very precise handling, you're going to need to put on some of the aftermarket suspension or steering parts. The stock cars beginner are fairly well engineered, but for the money we will probably be spending, things will be just a little on the cheaper side. But that means there's no reason why you shouldn't just leave the car as-is. I have several, including a monster truck that goes airborne & gets stepped on, and the only thing I ever changed was the receiver & batteries. AND, Like any other Z car, you'll want to get your hands dirty & play with or adjust stuff to suit! thx

I'm getting on for caravanning with the club. Do you consider it necessary to have a snanning capability, or is it just a fancy do-dad, since you don't switch channels while in the caravan? I like the Midland 75-785. A basic handheld CB with the 4-pin microphone connector. thx

The trans guy said he'll do it, but I think it was up to me to get the parts. I'm pretty sure I suggested that I get the parts through him, if he had connections to a place that will ship.

Things depend on the availability of body kits, but the chassis is up to the individual. I'm looking for a good source of RTR chassis that will work for about anyone, and not too expensive. I think a 4WD chassis is overkill, because the idea was a fun, 'scale' car anybody could build or afford, and that means 2WD with like a 540 cheapie can. If you have your own stuff, then you're probably mostly all set. thx

I'm just wondering... If any of you guys want to build your own r/c Z car, about how much would you want to spend on it? Consider that most car bodies are $15 - $20, how high would you go for the chassis? CHASSIS: A car frame with shocks & springs all around, A-arm front suspension & usually a straight rear axle w/ diff. The rear suspension may be of the independant type. Removable wheels ( to customise tires & rims.) RADIO: A fully proportional radio control system with variable speed forward ( and maybe backward), and real proportional steering. It also has the usual 7.2V NiCad car battery, and a pistol-type transmitter. Support equipment: A battery charger for the car battery is about all you'll need. Any more is optional, to taste. The dececent car chassis kits run $90-$120. The 240Z car prototype we are working on right now is totally up in design. If people want a $$9 chassis, I know where to get some, but the car will suck meaning it'll be "slow," and the steering will be like full-left, center, or full-right. The range would be about 100 - 200 ft, which might be OK, because you want to see where you're driving. The prototype Will & I are working on will have the 'good' chassis with 2WD, not the 4WD that people use for racing. It'll be fast. (so to speak,) Faster than "scale," but you can get used to it. The steering will be proportional, so you can go through a slolom course and just miss the cones, like in reality. Thst's the $100 chassis deal. thx

Maybe a silicone tube isn't the right thing for you, if you need a stock hose like the topic title says. It was just a thought as the stock ones are NLA.

What about those people on eBay that are offering the silicone vacuum hose kits? They claim to include every hose & tube under the hood... thx

I think you're right. the turn signals are over the bumpers too, like on a 280Z.