TomoHawk

If the SVRA puts Datsuns up to 1972 in Group 8, what do group do the Zs made after 1972 go into? It's a special marque for the race, so I think it's Group 9? thxZ

So what do you think of the show this year? Already there seems to be some drama happening between the NSX team, the Viper team, and the Mustang team. BTW- If you are interested in getting your car "casted" for the next one, go to: http://www.bullrun.com/ Register for the website, post some photos, video, and non-exaggerated profiles, and maybe you'll get picked. It would do the show a LOT of good to have a quality road car instead of all the go-fast, plastic, luxury stuff. Besides, you aren't allowed to use the radio while driving anyway.

On my '78 they came out easily after removing the screws and the air tube. they are screwed in from behind. What other colour would work besides chrome (there's no such thing as "chrome paint"

If your cooling fan clutch is working right, the fan will spin up for a while, then spin down as the air from the radiator cools. With the fan engaged & spinning, you'll get cooler coolant for a little bit.

The best part of all this fun is that in another 30 or 40 years, You can do it all over again!

For those using the Eastwood kit, when did you decide that your electrolyte solution was spent? Mine has a little precipitate at the bottom when I transfer it from jug to jug. It could be the salt falling out of solution a the water evaporates. thxZ

I think this is a drivetrain-related thing, although it's mostly about the speedo gauge itself. In Roadrally, you calibrate your odometer when you run the first leg, which is about 10 miles. The Rallymaster gives you the exact mileage and you calculate your "correction factor." But the testing I've done so far indicates that the odometer isn't as great as you might think... At 30 MPH, the odometer matches the distance you drive very well. At 60 MPH, it's only 90% on; it goes up by 0.9 miles for every 1 mile on the highway (assuming the mile-markers are correctly spaced.) It gets worse as you go faster. If you time yourself for the miles, you get 2 minutes to a mile @30MPH, it's 80 seconds @45 MPH, and 60 seconds per mile @60 MPH. At 45 MPH I got 79 seconds, and @30MPH, I got 1:59 to a mile, and Fortunately(?) for 60 MPH, I got 57 seconds, which seems consistent with the odometer. The question is, Is this appropriate for a 30 year-old car with 120,000 miles, or should it be something else? It's the original Speedometer, but I know some people have been putting in new gauges after a restoration; the new one could be more accurate. A second question. When you zero the Odometer, it usually takes a small distance, like 100-200 ft. before the odometer wheel starts turning. It's called odo "lag." and since you reset tthe odometer for each leg (up to 12 times in a rally,) the lag can affect your final score. Has anyone tried it on theirs? I haven't gotten to measure mine on the Z, but it's that way on the DD. The goal is to see if the Z would be good enough to use on road rally, which relies on a good odometer, or well-documented correction steps. thxZ

The Show starts on Feb 18th, which is about a week away from today(Feb 12.) The first day or two ought to be good, then the "drama" starts.

It's a Road Rally website, mostly TSD (Time-Speed-Distance) or Gimmick rally. It's run by a guy in the Oregon area / Cascade Sports Car Club.

This year's Vintage Grand Prix at Mid-Ohio features Datsun as the featured marque! June 25-27, 2010 http://www.midohio.com/Schedule/Vintage-Grand-Prix-of-Mid-Ohio-2010

Unless you have a wide-angle lens on the camera, try sticking it to the back window or the side window, try a video, and let us know how it comes out. Most people only look at the little field that the camera is focused on, and don't think about what they actually see with their eyes while driving; and how WIDE of a field it is they do see with their eyes. That is what makes the difference between a so-so video and a great one.

Here is a page in the microfiche files I found. It shows both sides on the 76 and later.

There is an artcle on Atlantic Z tech section about checking your AFM: URL: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

My 280Z had a bracket just under the glovebox, bolted to the door frame. You couldn't see it unless you crawled under, and it didn't seem to be doing anything. That dogleg part would cover it anyway. BTW, they call those kick panels on eBay, but it looks more like a water ski to me... Is there a picture of driver's side panel? Part of mine broke off and I'd like to fix it or make a new one.

Get 2 of the D100, because it seems to go fast.

I have been using two kinds of DeOxit to 'repair' the connectors & connections. DeOxit D100 is more concentrated or stronger (100% formula) and it gets most of the oxidation. DeOxit D5 is less concentrated (5% formula) and is intended as a maintenence product/lubricant, and the connectors get a coating of that second. The combination of D100 and D5 has improved every connection that was treated, starting with the connections behind the glovebox and the headlights. Whenever I uncover a connector, it gets the DeOxit D100/D5 treatment. thxZ

I still have my "manual" calipers from college days. it reads in both Metric & standard, but the fine marks are hard to see. Your comment suggests that maybe a new digital one from Harbor Freight might be good to have.

When you select your vacuum hose, keep in mind whether it is just plain air (like for the he heater controls) in the hose or if it might contain oil or fuel fumes (rocker box or emissions system.) The latter requires an oil-or gas-proof material. Also make sure you get hoses that won't collapse from the vacuum.

No evidence of why you think Dan Gurney should be on the list? thxZ

If you want to see the stats for the Rolex Daytona 24 hours live: http://grandam.racersites-cluster.com/OrbitsServer/grandam/TimingView.html?sid=692&VN=66608 The race ends at 3 PM Eastern time

Sorry... $11 delivered.

I just got a set of 10 copper washers off eBay. Good deal? At the rate I change the oil (annually) it'll last me for the next 10 years.

Is it the newer Mustang that has the high mount brake light with sequential segments?

I'm glad the brake light is separate on the later model. We will just need the one wire.

You probably could paint the pulley without removing it, but the back side might be rusted too. You can't see the back from above.