Marty Rogan

Now that I see your boot up close, I finally understand the discussion of the "grommet". Apparently the grommet must be missing on my '71. Marty

Those tires should fit with no rubbing. That is the size I am running on my car. Are you going to use the ES 100's on the street or the track? I have used them on the track and they were good at the start and very quickly went down hill from there. The edges tend to chunk pretty badly. I intend to replace them after only 2 seasons as they have really lost their grip. They probably would be ok for a street driven car though. Are any of you guys using the Toyota 4x4, vented rotor brakes with your Rewinds? I am interested in getting a set, but I want to make sure these big calipers will fit behind them. TIA, Marty

Chris W. or Carl Beck, Maybe you guys could let us know your opinions on which are the earliest versions of the shift boot. Do you have the originail boot from #26?? Thanks, Marty

If you want to go with the earliest version on the shift boot, that I am aware of then I will take you up on that offer. See my post #22. The picture on the left is out of a Z blt 6/70. If that is the one that people agree should be reproduced, I could probably ship it to you in a day or two. If it is the one in the middle picture (blt 1/71), I will need till the weekend to remove it from the car. Let me know which way you want to go. Marty

I have the MSA one. And yes it is expensive, but I no longer have to worry about it melting! So far the quality seems good and I have had no problems with it. I will also be installing Dave's headlight and parking light relay harnesses when the weather gets warmer. Marty

I am glad someone brought this up. I was going do a post about early shift boots, but just did not get around to it. So far, I believe I have actually seen three distinct versions of the shift boot. The first came out of my 6/70 Z, which seems to just have the material at the top just folded over and sewn. The second is still in my 1/71 Z and is the type being described with the grommet at the top. Lastly, is the one that is commonly available with the laces. If anyone finds a source for the early ones, I would buy two. Marty

I just bought John's old trailer hitch. He said he used it for years to pull his race tires to Autocrosses. I intend to use it for the same purpose. It will be used to pull a very small, light weight utility trailer. One bar is bolted into the body with the bolt from the bumper mounts (early '71). The other bar is shaped to go around the fuel tank and get welded to the crossmember holding on the lower cotrol arms. Check out the pictures. Marty

Hey guys, I will be getting back around to this in the spring. I am considering a set of the Fast Forwards or Rewinds to mount track tires. Has anyone used these with the wide Toyota 4X4 calipers (the vented rotor conversion). I have a set of Panasports on there now, which have the extra clearance needed for these wide calipers. I am wondering if the spokes on thes wheels bow out as far as the Panasports do. Anybody running that set-up? TIA, Marty

Actually, my 6/70 Z #5341 with the rare blue interior has the hatch compartment without the access doors. It is a pain when a bulb burns out. I recently acquired a panel from EBay that is blue, with the trap doors. I am thinking of putting that one on for ease of changing bulbs. My other Z, blt 1/71 is built just like yours, with all the Series 1 attributes. Marty

That is a diff from a Subaru. They used the samne manufacturere that Nissan did. The is an R160, which would be weaker than your R180. they are a better swap for a 510 than a Z. It would drop in without changing the moustash bar, but you will need to change the half shaft flanges. It may work, but if you are at all agressive in your driving, it probably won't last. Marty

I may be wrong, but I believe they don't make an Ignitor 2 model for the 240Z. I have used the Pertonix for several years and had been very satisfied with the performance till this year. I had one go poof on me and the magents came out of the other one. I am looking into the 280ZX solution too. My only decision is whether it is worth the extra money to use an MSD box as well. I am leaning toward going with the box too. It is supposed to make starting easier and provide a nice, smooth idle. I also don't really want to mount something extra under the hood. There should be no reason that you can't mount it inside the car and just run the wires into the engine compartment. Like you, I have not seen anything that clearly says "Ah Ha!, that's the way to go!" Marty

Well, it looks like a lot of people are interested in how to wire this up. So, I guess I will go ahead and attach the diagram that I made up. I'll warn you guys, that it is pretty crude. My drawing skills are about as bad as my electrical skills, !! I also need to give lots of credit to Escanlon who helped me figure this thing out in the first place. E took me through a crash course in "Wiring For Dummies" to figure this out. The picture shows how the oil pressure switch and sender connections should look. I hope this helps those that are interested in making this convertion. Marty Fuel_Pump_Wiring(Final).pdf

Matt, This is your lucky day! I just installed one on my 1/71 earlier this year. I have a wiring diagram and instructions on my work computer. It shows how to wire in a relay, an inertia switch and an oil pressure cutoff switch. Send me a PM with your email address and I can send the info to you tomorrow. Depending on the electric pump you got, you will also need a fuel pressure regulator, if your pump puts out more than 5 PSI. Marty

You are correct! I just did this a couple of months ago. Check with Zbarn.com Marty

The Pertronix optical sensor is basically a plastic ring that is installed over the distributor post (under the rotor). That contains 6 small magnets, equally spaced. This ring is then warpped with the green tape mentioned above. I wish I had a picture of it, but I don't. The distributor does not have magnets in it. The only magnets are the ones in the Pertronix optical trigger. It basically acts as an on/off switch as it rotates inside the distributor. I think the term "optic sensor" is a misnomer (SP?). The sensor "sees" the magnet as it passes by. It does not "visually see anything. It just senses the presence of the magnets. Arne, I would do some thorough cleaning inside the dizzy and see if it helps. the swap would tell you a lot too. I keep going back and forth as to which electronic ignition set up is the best for these cars. So far I have not seen or heard of a clear winner. Marty

Yep, green tape is still in place. The magnets fell out underneath the tape. The older design optical trigger had a plastic ring at the bottom to hold everything in. I don't understand why they changed to an inferior design, when what they had seemed to work fine. I suppose they save ten cents per 100 units in thier manufacturing costs. Marty

Do a search. This has been discussed in detail, as late as last week. If you can't find it or have other specific questions, then get back to us. Marty

Here's the resolution to close this one out. The new ballast resistor has seemed to fix the buzzing sound. Over the weekend, I pulled the optical sensor in dizzy to clean it. Three of the magnets fell out of their slots. I put in a spare that I had and the tach now pulls smoothly to 6K. So if you see this issue, clean the sensor and check the magnets. Marty

Here's an update on this problem. I got a known good replacement tach off EBay and installed it over the weekend. It had the same problem. At this point, I began re-looking at the Pertronix. The optical sensor in the distributor was looking dirty, so I pulled it off to clean it. Three of the magenets came loose from their slots. I happened to have a spare, so I cleaned that up and installed it. Now the tach will spin smoothly up to 6K with no problems. So if anyone experieinces the same problems, I would recommend cleaning the optical sensor and checking that the magnets are in place. Marty

Don't trust the boxes!!! The rotor I got was the correct box, with the wrong part inside. Check it against the other rotor or the old one. You could even swap it over to the other side and see if it is a problem there. But, if the race is kilted, that sounds like your problem. Carefully tap that race down completely and reassemble it. Marty

Good thought Bart. I have had that happen also. Check the bearing races, bearing and seals to make sure they are COMPLETELY seated. I replaced my bearing recently and thought I had everything well seated. Drove the car a few miles and started hearing some noises from the front. I had to re-torque the bearings quite a bit once they fully seated. Marty

Hell 4-6" here just slows us down a bit, ! Really, the biggest problem is that they use salt on the roads to melt snow and ice. As we all know, salt is a real Z killer. That's why you hardly ever see a 240Z in Chicago. And if you do, it probably came from somewhere else like CA, or NM. It seems like you WA guys have a lot of them up there too. I haven't seen a 240Z in a junk yard here since 1987. This weekend, I need to start the hibernation process. Marty

I still have the original diff in there for now, till I can locate a better one (looking for a 4.11: 3.90 or 3.70 R180 LSD). I didn't move it back either, so it sounds like the drive shaft length is ok. I hear you on the increase in torque, I love it!! That is one of the first things I did was to re-torque all the bolts. I'll check it again. The U-joints are new, the front diff mount is new, and I have checked the bolts. Sounds like the only thing I have not checked yet is the nose strap. Is there a test to perform to know if that is good? By the way, I get the clunk when taking off and shifting gears. Marty

Don't really know without getting under there and disconnecting it. I don't really want to drop the drive shaft right now and have to re-fill the tranny. Marty

I'll have to try to get under there this weekend to measure it. I am using the early '71 drive shaft and the diffy in the original position. The info on the Zhome webiste suggests that there is 1/16" difference between the early and later trannies. That is what made me wonder if that was the source of my clunk. Marty