Marty Rogan

I had that happen to my '70 once. A wire going into the voltage regulator corroded and it over-charged the battery. That is what I would suspect happened to yours. Marty

The head gasket on the race car blew recently (280ZX turbo engine with P90 head). The previous owner told me that he had this head heat straightend and decked .008 -.010. How far can you shave these heads before you have to use cam tower shims? I have a machine shop checking out the head right now. I suspect they are going to want to shave it a bit to be sure its flat. Thanks, Marty

I went back after a short break and looked at it again. Then I turned the engine slightly in the opposite direction. That took the slack out and allowed the tool to slide in. Sometimes it pays to walk away and get a new pespective.

I know the last time I used the tensioned tool it pretty much slid in easily. This time, I can't even force it in. Man, I really didn't want to have to take the front cover off this engine!

My Race car blew the head gasket last time out (240Z with L28 turbo motor). So today I started in on removing the head. When I went to push the timing chain tension tool in, it did not want to go inat all. When I looked closer, the manifold side of the end chanin was already very loose. The plug side of the engine is still tight. Does this mean that the tensioner has popped out? I haven't even removed the cam gear yet. Le me know what you think. Thanks, Marty

How can I get into the Nissan Fast System, so I don't have to bug you anymore? I need to look up the manifold gasket part number. Thanks, Marty

It was quite a while ago and I don't have the paperwork here at the office. If you want to order today, just call them. They found it pretty quickly when I called them. Good luck. Marty

I ordered Moog ball joints from Carquest. They were identical to the Nissan part. I don't remember the exact price, but it seems like it was 30-40% cheaper. They list these under their "OEM Replacment" parts line. It only took about a day for the store to get them and they didn't even charge me for shipping. Marty

I think I have a diff strap that was only used for about 5,000 miles. You can use that if you want. Let me know and I can mail it to you. Marty

Thanks, this is great info. I will be ordering the Ishino from them. Do you know if their manifold gasket is a quality piece too? The picture looks like it is a paper gasket. I prefer to get a manifold gasket with the steel reinforcements around the holes. Thanks, Marty

That shows a gasket for a 280ZX, but does not mention a turbo. Are the gasket different between an N/A and a turbo engine? It is also curious that they show a different part number for an '81-'82 and an '83. I thought all 81-83's were the same.

Thanks again Stephan. You are a wealth of knowledge as always! Marty

I checked that website to look up the turbo head bolts, but it doesn't seem to list them. Anyone know the part numbers for the turbo head bolts? Thanks, Marty

Thanks Stephan!

Looks like the parts CD does not cover the 280 ZX. Anyone know what the part number is for an '83 ZX turbo head gasket? Thanks, Marty

If you were wondering how a GTR performs on the track, check this out: http://www.streetfire.net/video/nissan-gtr-road-america-229-lap-stock-summer-dunlops_2000789.htm This guy did a 2:29 lap at Road America on summer street tires! This is a 4 mile, 14 turn road course. 2:29 is really flying! And that car sounds incredible flying by you too. Enjoy! Marty

I bought a 240Z Track Car, with a 280ZX turbo motor a couple of months back. It has the stock turbo oil pan in it. I was kind of surprised that it had a stock oil pan as a purpose built track car. Does the turbo pan have any type of baffles in it to keep the oil near the pick up? I tried a search, but could not find an answer. I have an AZ ZCar aluminum pan that I am thinking about putting on there. I have been pretty busy lately, so if the stock pan has some baffling in it, I might wait a while. thanks, Marty

I just bought a track car a couple of months ago with these brakes on it. I have only had 3 test laps with the car so far though. I think I have experienced that issue as well. My next event is June 7th, so I will get a better idea of its performance then. I would really like to hear how you solve this issue. Marty

I decided to go with the 3M Adhesive Remover. I applied it with a Scotch-Brite pad. It works really well. I would not say that it was easy, but it wasn't too bad either. It took me about an hour to scrub the entire roof. A few words of caution if you use this stuff. It is extreemely toxic! I was using chemical safety gloves and it still went through one of the fingers. Use the heavy gauge black ones. Secondly, take frequent breaks for fresh air. If you can smell it, you are ingesting this toxin. It did take off the paint in some spots. That is ok in my case, as I intend to re-paint the area anyway. Overall, I would recommend it, but be very careful using this stuff. Marty

I just talked to another car buddy who uses these. He thought they would be stong enough. I am thinking, 2 at the top, 1 in the front (leading edge), combined with the retail lock at the back and the window sliding into the channel on top of the door should do it. It should be pretty quick and easy to install/uninstall. It would be a lot cheaper that pip pins which cost $14/each. The Clecos are $.59/each and $8.50 for the pliers. Not too bad at all.

What about Cleco Clamps? http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=645 I am not sure how strong those are though.

The first time around I drilled a hole and put one of those spring clips over the hole that allow you to thread a screw through it. It held it ok, but it was not very user friendly. Pretty much a PITA to get it out again. I kind of like the idea of the retail store lock. Not that I need to lock anything, but it would be quick and easy to use. That would require the window to have a channel to slide into though. Pip pins are another good idea. Pretty quick and easy to use.

True. I have never had a car with Lexan in it before. The car has a Lexan rear window. Thanks for the heads up. I am still looking for any way to secure the top and front edge of the temporary window. I have a set of window channels that I am considering cutting to fit the top and front edge of the window opening. Just trying to figure out the best way to attach it to the weather strip lip on the car.

Cool, thanks!!

I picked up a sheet of Lexan last night. Where do you get locks like that? They look like the ones you would see used on store display cases.