AZ-240z

Arne, Is there a source for the correct wire set for a 240Z? I am afraid I haven't researched this adequately, and just assumed that stock plug wires for 240z were NLA anywhere. Dan

Steve, There is an old thread you may want to check. It is "How Close Are Our Vin #s". You may find someone with a car very close to yours, give him a PM to see if they have the decal. Good Luck. Dan

I got my set of Nissan wires from Banzai Motorworks. If you go to www.zzxdatsun.com and check the catalogue item under loss leader it will show a pictured set. They are black wire with the red rubber plug connectors. Hope this helps. Dan

Ron, Well, that is, indeed a revelation. Every key code decal I have seen, whether on cars I have inspected, or glove box doors for sale on ebay, have the decal on the inside of the glove box door just to the left, or inboard, of the latch hook. This location has been substantiated by Mike McGinnis at Banzai where I purchased the decal. When I talked to Mike, he didn't have any specific information about the correct entries on this decal at the time. He is an extremely busy guy and I didn't want to press him for information. I assume this decal was affixed by the dealer, and maybe some dealers used a more secreted location for security. just a thought, but I appreciate the new information. Dan

What happened to your original key code label in your glovebox Dan? Ron, To tell you the truth, I don't remember ever seeing a key code decal in my glove box door. If there was one, it came unglued very early. My warrantee book key code blank space was, also, never filled in by the dealer, as I have just noticed. I am afraid I am guilty of not paying attention to this sort of detail until the importance of these items becomes quite apparent during a restoration. Dan

Mike, Thanks, that clears up my confusion about VOSS and WASO keys. Am I correct in assuming that all series 1 cars had the two key system? My car, being right at the end of series 1 production, may have been caught in the transition with a series two ignition key and series 1 doors key. Dan

Ron, this just keeps getting better and better. My two sided ignition key does mimic your and is embossed with an "M XXXX" code. Do you, also, have a single sided key for doors, glove box, and rear hatch lid? That key just has a four number "XXXX" code. I know mine to be original because thats the way it came from the showroom when I purchased it new. Dan

My thanks to both Jim and Ron for the information they have provided. You would think that, with all of this information, I could figure out my key code decal. My car is a 1/71 series 1 with a two sided ignition key (Round head with Z across key chain hole and Nissan Motors imprinted in black). My door key is single sided (kind of square head with Z across key chain hole and Nissan Motors imprinted in black). I don't know if these are either VOSS or WASO keys. All of this is good archive material as I am sure this question will come up again. In the mean time, I will update with any future information. Thanks, again. Dan

Thanks, Ron. That is a big help in defining use of the sticker space. Did your car, being an early series 1, I believe, have a single key for all locks and ignition, or two keys as mine did? Any idea what VH & FH stand for? ENG/Door may allude to a single key code for ignition and door? Or, maybe not???? No clues in my owner"s manual, either. A pic would be great if not too much trouble, Ron. Dan

I've been doing a search for the correct way to enter my key codes on a new glove box decal and have come up empty. My car is a late series 1 with two keys: the ignition key has a letter-four number, M-XXXX, code and the doors, glove box, & hatch key has a four number, XXXX, code. The decal has the following: KEY NO. VH-- FH-- Eng'/DOOR-- If anyone has an original series one key code decal on their glove box door with the two key codes, it would be a big help if you could describe where your codes are written on the decal. As Zrush has mentioned, I am not sure of the VH, FH, etc meanings, and she has just a single key for her car. Many thanks. Dan

Arne, That's pretty much what I was thinking, but appreciate your confirming it. Dan

Arne, Nice find on the part number of this clip. I noticed that the picture you attached from the parts CD shown it installed on the cargo deck in some way. Is this the same part used for the carpet in front of the seats? Is the same part used somewhere on the rear cargo deck? I have noticed that sometimes the CD is not totally accurate as to where they shown parts. Thanks, Arne for any thoughts. Dan

Mike, great pictures of both the early carpet and later examples. You have been able to jar my old persons early memory of what my car had when new. My car is a 1/71 series 1 and had the carpet with clear backing as you have shown. I am a little confused by the comments of some as to how the luggage straps were secured at the forward edge just behind the luggage riser panel. I am quite certain that mine originally was secured with screws through the strap bracket and through the carpet. There were no holes , slits, or surged openings through which the straps ran to be secured to the bare deck surface. Also, the forward most edge of the carpet was not surged, and extended up the back of the luggage riser panel and held in place by the plastic riser trim strip. Dan

Jim, I am thinking of reproducing the correct carpets for my 1/71 series 1 car but need to find good original carpet pieces for correct patterns. The carpet pieces that go behind the seats and around the black plastic tool and jack covers are particularly challenging as the pattern seems to have changed depending on whether the car was an early series 1 or late series 1. What vin or build date car did your original pieces come from if you don't mind my asking? My car, also, has the two L shaped brackets just in front of the seats on both sides to secure the foot well carpets. The carpet there will have rectangular holes for these which need to be surge bound. Finding someone with a surging machine that car do closed openings like this is also challenging. Dan

Will, If the above was in reply to my suggestion, Dan, instead of Dave, I appreciate the update on your efforts to do these reproductions. Anyone who would take on such a tast has my admiration and gratitude. Thanks, and I will follow your progress with great interest. Dan

Will, I was just doing a search for early series 1 antennas, which I desperately need for my restoration, and though of something else that goes with Arne's request. There was, also, a black plastic spacer, I guess, that fit between the black plastic hemispherical piece that arne mentioned and a chrome securing nut which secured the mast and finisher hardware to the quarter panel. There is, also, a chrome, dome shaped washer that sat on top of the black hemispherical piece, but i didn't want to confuse my description. This black plastic spacer suffered the same UV destruction as the hemispherical piece. Doing both of these plastic pieces would renew the mounting hardware dramatically. Just a thought. Dan

TomoHawk, I have bought boxes of these at my local Nissan Parts Counter. Just take all of the part numbers you can find on the CD for the bolts you want, order a sample of each, and see what arrives. Some come with capture washers, but those can be cut off if needed. Dan

FilipeA, Who did the carpet pieces shown in your link? They appear to be quite good reproductions of the original loop pile carpet with the surge bound edges. Thanks, and I just put your link in my favorites for future reference. I can hardly wait to see good pictures of the finished car. Dan

I just had my set of reproduction U.S. spec springs installed with a set of Mulholland struts. I couldn't be happier with the results as I am looking for totally stock appearance with a decent ride. In reference to Carl's figures, above, my front and rear rocker measurements are 8 inches and 8 1/2 inches respectively. The front wheel arches are 6 1/2 inches and the rear wheel arches are 6 7/8 inches. The wheels are stock steel 14 inch wheels with 185/70 14 tires. As Arne has described in another thread, the ride is firm but not harsh. As my car is not a daily driver the firm ride is not an issue and I kind of like the road feedback it gives. I was kind of concerned, as others with the KYB gas struts were getting higher road clearance figures, but with those Mulholland hydraulic struts, Carl, your quality control efforts with these reproductions appears to have resulted in perfect springs. My thanks to all who were involved with accomplishing this project. Dan

Carl, Dave, dimitri, Bob, Thanks for your research and time taken to check out my questions. I agree with the majority opinion here, hex head bolts and shaved washers. As carl stated the number of shaved washers could be somewhat random but were found on the fenders and not on the headlight housings. Carl makes another good point. I was going to leave all of the lock washers off because a few bolts have a clearance issue with the hood. Should I leave just those lock washers off, or grind the head of the bolt on those areas, or leave all lock washers off for the sake of uniformity? Thanks Dan Dave, good point about the anti-seize, but the only water my cars sees is from a bucket of soapy water.

Dave, I totally agree that at least some of these 6 washers have a flat, or cut off side with some of the lock washers missing for hood clearance issues. I think that you misunderstood about the hex head bolts, with or without, the phillips cross in the head. I was refering to the bolts used with those 18mm washers, not to the screws for the rubber bumpers. Thanks for the input. Dan

Hi Dave, I agree that the 18mm washers used for the 6 fender bolts, 3 on each side, should probably be flat sided so as not to interfere with with curled lip of the fender flang. I think you misunderstood about the hex head bolts, with or without the phillips cross. I was refering to the bolts that are used with the above washers to secure the fender, not the screws for the four rubber bumpers. Thanks Dan

Hi Dave, I agree that the 18mm washers used for the 6 fender bolts, 3 on each side, should probably be flat sided so as not to interfere with with curled lip of the fender flang. I think you misunderstood about the hex head bolts, with or without the phillips cross. I was refering to the bolts that are used with the above washers to secure the fender, not the screws for the four rubber bumpers. Thanks Dan

Thanks, Bob. I have concluded that the bolts are just hex head but some of the washers I've seen on some early cars do have a few of the flat-sided washers, as I vaguely recall mine did. I am going to do the loop pile which was original to the series 1 cars, wool if I can find it wide enough, otherwise the synthetic fiber. I, also, have some good leads on natural fibre jute, probably not as good as what Kats has found. Just need to find a good set of patterns for carpet in the footwells, and areas behind the seats and under the plastic tool covers. Where were you able to find the female, I guess, snaps that mated up with the original male half on the firewall padding? I am still working on those gold emissions decals, the challenge is the real enjoyment, and am getting very close to something very good, I think. Thank for the additional info Bob, and keep any thoughts or comments coming. Dan