AZ-240z

Arne, Ive got some cloth tape tags that came off of OEM NOS Nissan braided fuel line. I would like to upload a scan of these from my PC, but have not got a clue how to get this scan into my photo album. REALLY GETTING **%$^&*@#$%$#$$FRUSTRATED!!!!! This new format just isn't working for me. Can't find anything. CR*P! Well, got that out of my system. Dan

Thanks for the pic, Randy. Your picture may be a little blurry, but not as blurry as the parts many find on transition cars, ie., late series 1/early series 2 cars. Dan

esprist, I just mention this just for informational purposes, and as the original owner of one of the last series 1 cars made in 1/71. I have seen a number of series 1 cars made in 1971 with the mastervac hose from check valve to air intake manifold fastened at the top of the intake air manifold, and not the end of the manifold as is the case with early series 1 cars. Just an observation and point of interest, and perhaps others with original late model series 1 cars might comment with there build date and vin #. Your contributions and efforts to provide high quality parts is much appreciated. Thanks Dan

If you go to the "search" function at the top of this page and plug in "dash protection", scroll down and select "any date", you will find about four pages of threads discussing this which I think you will find quite informative. I'm not blowing you off as I, too, am having some difficulty trying to navigate this new format and find things that were helpful to me in the past. I have a NOS dash in my car, and have the same concerns. I use a dash mat with no glued or other attachment fasteners, keep my car garaged, and use Vinylex, a vinyl, rubber, and plastic protectant. There are chemicals in the dash vinyl that out-gas, or evaporate under dry, hot conditions with a UV sun exposure. The vinylex is supposted to replenish those chemicals. There are many other products that profess to do the same thing, your choice, but I think it is a necessary component to protecting the dash from deterioration. Hope this helps. Dan

Just for clarification, the "check valve to intake" hose you show here is the style that is on my series 1 car with a build date of 1/71. The series 1 cars had both the early and later style for this hose. Thanks for making this available and I'll be in line for a set. Dan

Hey deadflo, I just did a quick check of my parts CD and, from what I see, the door glass changes after build date of 6/75. So, I don't think glass from the 12/75 280Z will work for a 71. May save you some grief. You should be able to find aftermarket glass for your 71, unless you need or want the originality of factory glass. Dan

Bought my car new on 3/71 and the paint color and texture on taillight finisher panels, D-hubcaps, and front grill was an exact match on my car. Paint is gray, and texture is what Wick Humble, who wrote the book on How To Restore Your Datsun 240-Z, called a match book scratch texture. Dan

Are those window emission decal shown in your third picture reproductions? If so, could you tell me your source as I would like to have one for my car. Thanks. Dan

Actually, my point taken is just the opposite. The aftermarket thermostat with the smaller opening, restricts volume of flow and rate of cooling done by the radiator. The Nissan OEM thermostat, with it's larger orfice, allows a larger capacity of flow and cooling. First hand knowledge! Dan

If you take a close look at these thermostats, side by side, you will probably notice that the orfice opening of the aftermarket thermostate is small than the Nissan OEM thermostat. Another good reason to buy quality Nissan parts. Dan

If you are getting that much of a temp extreme, I would pull the radiator and have it rodded out, boiled, pressure tested, and definitely install the correct thermostat. Restricted flow in the radiiator core will definitely defeat the purpose of the cooling system. before taking it out, though, being very conservative, I would also put a chemical flush through the whole system to make sure there is not a large sediment buildup in the block which may not allow efficient heat transfer to the cooling medium. Not that expensive to do if removing and installing components yourself. Dan

Arne, Carl Beck came up with 8 1/2 inches for this measurement. That was in a thread about his reproduction spring project. So............are your measurements from your car when you had stock inserts with original springs? Dan

John, I am not at home right now, but as I remember, the difference was minimal and insignificant. You radius measurement may have been an eigth or quarter of an inch taller. Dan

Thanks, John. With original stock springs and KYB-GR2 inserts, your measurements are averaging about 1/4" less than stock. With this combination, others have had results that increased the ride height an average of 1/2". The variable is spring sag which may be the prime mover with your results. Thanks, again, for your information which will a help in anticipating results when using GR-2 with original springs, new, or reproductions. Dan

David, glad I could help. I've already spent my wad of cash at Banzai and worth every cent. Dan

David, I think I can help. If you go to Banzai Motorworks web site, www.zzxdatsun.com, and check out his catalog menu, I think you will find these item in reproduction form. They are of excellent quality. Listed under rubber, the item numbers are: Front bumper end bracket insulators BO-52 Rear bumper end bracket insulators BO-53 He sells them for $10 each, and, as a disclaimer, I am in no way associated with this website. Dan

So, I guess we will need the measurement from one of your wheel centers to the ground so as to adjust ride height to compare to the use of 195HR70x14 tires on stock steel wheels.

John, When Carl Beck had the OEM stock springs reproduced with the help of Courtesy Nissan, here are the stock factory ride height numbers he came up with. With 195HR70x14 tires: Ground to front wheel well arch 26 5/8 " Ground to rear wheel well arch 26 1/2 " Ground to bottom of rocker panel front and rear 8 1/2 " Is the 26 3/8 " ride height measurement you came up with measured at the wheel well arches? Please let us know what all of your ride height measurements are. Thanks, again for your follow-up on this. Dan

John, let me know how the GR-2s changed the ride heigth of your car. My springs are the new reproductions for our domestic imports so no sagging springs here. The Mulhollands on my car put the ride heigth right at the stock profile as described in earlier threads and measurements posted by Carl Beck and others. Are your springs stock originals or aftermarket? Dan

Thanks, Arne. Yea, the inserts presently in my car are some NOS Mulhollands, and the rears are groaning whenever the car is driven. The ride has, also, gotten even more harsh. I am guessing that these have been sitting on the shelf so long that the seals have dried out, and, or, are now binding and causing the groaning noise. Guess the only option is to get Konis and hope the ride is acceptable and not as harsh and jarring as with the Mulhollands. I'll let you know when it happens. Dan

QUICK!!!!! But seriously, I am curious what strut cartridge, or shock, you installed. Were they KYB-GR2? The reason I ask is, I am going to put new shocks in my car but want to retain the stock ride height with the stock reproduction springs. I have been told by my very old and experienced Datsun mechanic that the KYB-GR2 struts are the low pressure KYB shocks and should not increase the ride height. My other option is to get Konis which are just oil shocks which shouldn't affect ride height, but am concerned about getting a super stiff, harsh ride from them.

I second everything Diseazed said. Just replaced my sending unit and it was quite simple. I would jack up the rear, under the differential, drain maybe 5 gals. from the tank into a clean container, and change the O-ring. The sending unit fits into a notch on the drivers side of the tank opening so you can't screw up the installation. Just be sure to put a little lub on the O-ring so it won't tear. Got mine from local Nissan parts counter. I would hesitate using any sealant because it would need to be cleaned off eventually, and it would be my luck to get a piece of sealant stuck in the fuel line. Good Luck Dan

Hello Arne, Following Kats lead, I made mastervac hoses for my car with the braided fuel line hoses that kats used. They turned out perfect and indistiguishable from original. (Thanks Kats) Instead of using solid brass rods, though, I used 1/4" copper tubing from my local hardware store. After inserting the tubing, I was very careful not to crimp the tubing during shaping and they work very well. I, too, was concerning about the collapsing of hose around solid brass rod material, thus the use of copper tubing. When available, I, too, will be getting the repro hoses, and my creations will find a new home on ebay. Dan

I believe the answer to your question in the picture is, yes, they are all the same fasteners. A total of 8 of these fasteners and the associated through bolts, 4 to fasten the center valance to fender aprons, and 4 to fasten fender aprons to fenders. From your picture, I am assuming that the fasteners are the same as in my picture in item #2 above. If you have the parts CD on page 105-3: item 28 part #63140-78500 is the fastener item 29 part #77720-89908 is the machine screw Dan

Are these the fasteners you are looking for?