Travel'n Man

Welcome to the forum!

Guy - I sent you a PM on this...............

My son and I have a cabin for this Z car event this year - we are both really fired up for a long weekend with a bunch of Z car enthusiasts. http://www.fontanavillage.com/

I'm betting this is way the pervious seller sold the carbs - can you call the PO and ask what was going on with the carbs - do you know the setup of the carbs - is it possible that you have different size jets in carbs..............at this point you may have to start fresh so you know what you have. My jetting setup is: 40mm Mikuni Carbs 32mm Venturis 40 Pump Jets 57.7 Pilot Jets 150 Main Fuel Jets 190 Air Connector Jets

One more thing - have you air balanced each of the carbs to ensure they are all balanced?

Was there any debris in the float bowl? If you don't remember pop the top and look right down in the bowl - if its clean in the tank you can rule that out. A lot of times you just have to rule things out until you find the cause.

You may want to get more detailed info for your float setting from Todd at: http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/ http://www.scribd.com/doc/60490072/Mikuni-PHH-Service-Manual

Was there a problem before you adjusted your floats?

I purchased from Summit Racing a heat wrap and put on the underside of my heat shield to keep the heat dispersed. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/THE-13590/

Check your needle valve for each of your carbs - in your float bowl there may be some debris locking the needle valve open and allowing more fuel than what should be in there. Do you have a fuel filter back at the gas tank and before your fuel pump? If not - go ahead and spend the $$ to get the best one you can. You do know what is directly under your air filters don't you? A hot header and raw fuel do not make up for a pleasant drive!

I have to agree with LeonV - the unisyn is over restrictive on the air intake - it really does choke down the air flow while you are getting a reading for adjusting balance. If any of you have not purchased a Syncrometer do it............my Unisyn has not been used since I purchased the Syncrometer. Benefits are no air restriction at all - no choking - no stalling - just a nice level reading while adjusting your air flow..........IMO.

Step number one is to pull your radiator and have it rodded and boiled. Give it a good paint job (except for the fins). That is usually the main problem with a car running a little warm or hot. It's amazing how much sludge can be in your water jackets in your engine. A true flush may help also. Once you got the water moving freely in your engine you may decide against the shroud. I installed on for looks more than function. It really did not drop my running temp much at all but I had already accomplished the above to-do list. You may want to do some searches on the topic and get some other folks thought process on that. Keep us posted!

Dave Rebello is a great resource for any engine or fuel question. He was very supportive when I purchased my head from him. It never seemed that I was bothering him if I needed to call to ask him a question on the installation or when we were determining my needs for the head - porting and cam work. It would be worth a call just to see what he has, or his thought process based on your needs. You may be able to buy the triples from Wolf Creek - send to Dave for tuning and porting, and then roll to you for installation. IF you go with a shortened Mikuni intake it gets a little tricky bolting those bad boys up due to not having enough room for the studs (it's kinda tight).

Tamo3- Actually - everybody above is correct kinda - you really need to get your carbs balanced (that is step number one). Then you need to get your Air Fuel ratio correct and balanced correctly as well. The colortune will assist with that but it is really worthless..... IMO What you really need is a air fuel gauge once you get your balance finished and set. The AF Ratio will allow for true reading and not to read your plugs (which everybody reads a little differently). A air fuel gauge will run somewhere between $100 and $300 . Once installed you will know how your carbs and engine are performing - rich or lean. I do strongly believe that this is the ultimate gauge for single - double - triple carbs to lock and load your maximum air and fuel ratio for your individual engine performance..............IMO. Back to basics - step one is to buy the STE-SK syncrometer - I own all of the above and the syncrometer is the one I reach for every time to start my carb setting.

Once you get your connections finalized be sure not to "burn it out" by leaving your ignition on without your engine started. If you have to work on your car pull the power from the coil and you'll be safe..............just a reminder.

Did you call Z Therapy and run this occurance by them?

Great post - great running carbs make a HUGE difference!

What was your AFR at WOT?

What about your fuel return line? Are you running a return or is it deadheaded? Maybe if that were it the problem would be more consistent at all RPM's.........just thinking out loud.

Could the balance tube not be doing it's job? When I was running SU's I had taken mine out and inspected - it's couldn't hurt at this time.......offer still stands on the previous post I had a few pages back if it could help eliminate things................

On your linkages be sure when you take them apart get some penetrating oil and spray each of the threaded ends, with a metal brush work the oil into the threads and work the adjusting nut so each of your links can be easily adjusted. When reassembling - snug up all your joints (including the firewall to the throttle pedal) so get as much slop out as you can. That is about all you can do to clean up and re-work the adjustments from the pedal to the carb. With all the adjustments and ball links - that is how the slop gets developed - all Z's have throttle surge due to the linkages (or at least 99 out of 100). It's been a problem since the original design. The throttle cable is a complete correction - one cable from the pedal to the carb - best of luck with your project.

To each their own - I've had both and will not go back to the linkage.......have you tried the throttle cable? If you have not, then you do not know....and if you still have the rear end clunk there is a proven fix for that as well - fortunately I don't have linkage slop or rear end clunk........

If you want to get rid of that throttle surge and linkage slop, give this a try - easy mod and silky smooth throttle advance. http://www.srbymichael.com/manufacturers/lokar/lokar-throttle-kick.shtml

Ordered a AutoMeter 3878 Wideband Gauge with O2 sensor - this will be a great addition for finding a few more horsepower !! http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-3878/

...........as always when working with gasoline be sure to use a well vented area - gas fumes linger on the ground and build up (to your light switch or your garage door opener) - this is a job for outdoors when you are draining that tank. Have fun but be careful in your garage!