Diseazd

You know what you want.....go for it! Hope this thread on my experience helps. Good Luck! http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/35036-ground-control-coilovers.html

I never could get the "pretty girls" until I got my GC stuts and Willwoods. Now I have to beat 'em off with a stock sway bar! If you want tires that fit Eibach and Konis, go with 205 55 16's, if you like the big tires, go with the coilovers and camber plates.....I had to really crank in the negative camber to tuck in the 225 50 16's when the car was lowered. It looks awesome, but handles on the road, not much better than the Eibachs/Tokicos. Zed Head is trying to save you money.....you want $$$$$ or a cool lowered car and hot chicks? Your wife can probably answer the question for you! :tapemouth

I love my GC Coilovers......You can really put the car down, but for the street, it's probably more bling than bang for the buck....I can't feel a whole lot of difference between the GC's and the Eibach/Tokicos. IMO, but it sure looks good. Throw in some front and rear Willwoods and you can really burn some green!

Anyone headed to Hampton for Todd's show?

I'm really impressed with the craftsmanship! Really lights it up eh? Nice work. Wanna race Greyson in his Tyco twin turbo with his wide sixes and his MoMo happy wheel? ( shown in my avatar) :stupid:

Your first motor.....go with what you've got....L28 crank and rods. Keep it simple and cheaper. Get someone who knows what he's doing (good machine shop or local Z nut) to put together bottom end and head. Assembly's not too hard after that if you read the FSM and follow tothe letter. SU's are much simpler than trips.....you can always add triples later. IMHO

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/34448-new-l-28-my-72-a.html These should answer most of your questions.....N42 head doesn't need the head work that the P79/p90 heads need. I've had 0 problems with Isky cam/ spring combo. I've never done an N42/n47 head, so consult someone else for help there. Remember.....when putting performance higher lift cams.....1) use new rockers 2) use correct lash pads to center wipe pattern 3) use shorter valve seals if interference from retainer and valve seal is a problem. Have an expert check valve spring retainer to valve seal clearance.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/42488-new-engine.html

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/31001-new-l-28-goes-1970-a.html

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/34448-new-l-28-my-72-a.html Pretty much explains what I do Crazy......plenty of power....lots of fun!

Good question CrazySwede......If the valve is longer, how do you compensate for the longer valve? With the P79/P90 head, when you shave the head .080 inches, you shim the the valve springs .080, the cam towers .080 and use the early L28 valves which are .080 inches longer. Therefore, the distance between crank sprocket and cam sprocket remain the same as stock....in other words, the engine remains at stock geometry in regards to the valve train and chain distance. With the DSI longer valve, if you shim the valve spring, without shimming the cam towers, wouldn't you throw the geometry of the valve train haywire? And, if you shimmed the cam towers, wouldn't you screw up the chain distance, unless you shaved the head by that much more? No doubt that the longer valve would be a big help for retainer to valve seal clearance on higher lift cams and bigger and lighter is definitely a plus.

Great story Mitch......hope you had a GoPro cd to remember your experience!

Shake em side to side.......if one or two feel loser than others, tighten the gap from .010 to .008 inches. Sometimes when you torque the lock nuts down, you'll change the lash clearance on that final lock down. Your noise is almost certainly in the valve train....loose is noisy...right?

One at a time, after you adjust each valve while the lobe is up, try to rock the rocker back and forth......if you find one that feels loose, take a little out of the adjustment. You can usually feel the play in a noisy rocker. Some Z engines just have more valve train noise than others.....but you can usually isolate a loud rocker by doing this procedure. IMO

Fred.....Please give me a call.....I'd love to have you over for burgers and Datsun talk. Guy

Thanks Jeff......It really is a car I've always been crazy about......It looks great next to the Datsuns!

Let me know if you ever want to sell that 510. My son would be interested. Here are some photos of the ride.

Technically the car isn't in the garage yet. But it's on the way and will arrive Friday. Better photos will follow this weekend.

Wael.....PM sent....how's Q8? You guys have awesome Z's....glad to see you like the Datsuns.....good taste! Guy

OZ......Great job on trying new things......with those numbers, you're doing something right...eh mate.....keep using your own instincts ....I'm proud of you! Guy

Wow OZ nice numbers! Is that right 213 h.p.? Send some pictures mate. Pump or rocket fuel?

Sorry to hear that jcb. What I would do if I were you is to buy an old worthless booster on EBay.......pull out the plunger and scavenge the disc. Old boosters can be had for very little cash. You can get them from a 240 or 280. A junk yard or salvage site might also be a good place to look.

Hurry up......we're waiting. Vaccuum the disc out, glue it on, put it back together and tell everyone how damned smart we are. It's a one hour job! :stupid::stupid:

It's in there......get it if you can (no way it escaped). The booster is miserable without that little disc.....feels like you have to put both feet on the brake pedal to stop the car. Super glue it to the plunger.

I agree with Blue....also you can neck down a small section of hose to your vacuum cleaner with duct tape....fish it around in the hole and it will stick to the end of the hose! :bulb::bulb::bulb::bulb::bulb: