Zvoiture

You can go to ZHOME and it will direct you to a Geocities site with all the STOCK diffy's listed with years and models. That is as start. But do you have the original diffy? The 200 is a lot bigger, but without them side-by-side, you have to be pretty clear on the concept....Look at the two bolt stubs poking out the rear. If they are as fat as your thumb, it is a R200. If they are more like, say, your index finger, it is a R180. OK, I have small hands! steve77

Just the 'sale' price. No taxes, registration, smog fees, improvements or anything. Just the original car. If you don't own a Z, vote for your budget. steve77

Not I. Windows up and floor vents open is the only way to be fume free. And I have done practically everything listed above and some more and "...whittling away at it..." is a good summation. MAke sure there are sealed liners inside hatch and door panels. That one made a big difference. don't forget the Antenae drain hole....Lic. plate light shield...install the latch INSIDE a plastic bag...Make sure you have no exhaust leaks ahead of the tail...Go over the spare tire area and surrounding again...plug everything...Those two big holes at the bottom of the hatch.............................................. I no longer reek of exhaust upon arrival! I also have an open joint at the header/Y-pipe swage. It moves so much I have never had the heart to weld or clamp it. Not sure how much it causes--pretty tight fitting--and no restrictions past it. steve77

Have you guys seen this? Unbelievable funny. http://www.knology.net/~carlos/redneck.htm steve77

I have heard R180=300+ and R200=600+. Remember: HEARD! steve77

Ditto...just go look at your head. You could have practically any head made for the L-series engine. Swaps are pretty common. Look right above the front spark plug. Although it's not IDEAL, reound port headers will work on swuare port heads and I have heard vica-versa will work too... E88, E31, N42 = square port N47, P79= round port I think P90 is square too, but kinda foggy on that one.... Good luck! steve77

Splitfires???? man, I gotta get on you again! Your Z wants NGK's really bad. Go ahead, ask it. I can hear it answering all the way from here. Listen carefully. "BPR6ES. BPR6ES. BPR6ES." steve77

Avoid at all costs the MSA mirrors. While ordering, I spoke with my rep on the phone and questioned him specifically: "Are these crappy mirrors? Will they vibrate around? Will they get loose? Are the mounts BS?" He assured me they were of quality mettle. REALITY: these are equal to IF NOT CHAPER THAN the $h1t you can buy at Kragen or whatever... Miserable, useless, junk mirrors. steve77

Ok, ditto and.... Number 1: Your car is WAAAAAY too mature to be dragging a stupid punk in a Prelude. Learn discretion, man. Number 2: Here's your real problem: "as i hit 2nd at 3500 rpms. " What's this 3500 crap????? Your Z wants to hit 2nd at about 5200! You should be doing 40 when you hit 2nd! steve77

Isn't the diffy you are looking for the R190? Wouldn't any R190 be a fairly easy swap into a Z--at least not any harder than converting from 180 to 200? steve77

Ever play cat bagpipes? They sound almost as good as real bagpipes! Just put the cat in your left armpit witht eh cat facing back, hold it's hind legs with your left hand, grab it's tail with your right, stick it in your mouth and blow as hard as you can while squeezing the cat under your arm. Beautiful music! steve77

I would own a dozen 280's if it were not for the smog thing! I would not even consider buying a 240 except that I CAN NOT do what I want to the motor and register it unless I buy something built before '74. So I am going to have to buy a rinky-dink little tinny 240 in order to build my hot-rod fuel injected 280 motor. I just like the way a 280 feels, and I think frame stress from hard driving is a non-issue with them. steve77

Wait a minute! A few posts ago someone mentioned 'foam filters' and K&N in the same sentence and insinuated they wouldn't recommend K&N because of the problems with foam filters. Are K&N filters foam on carb setups? My K&N is a big paper cone (FI). I have seen cones covered with foam but I assumed they were 'Brand X'! MAybe K&N makes more than one kind? All I know is I have a K&N and it's paper/wire mesh. steve77

Rare in Au maybe...not rare here. They are everywhere for really cheap. You can't GIVE 280's away in California. Nobody wants them. Several reasons: Theya re NOT smog exempt (280's are 75-78 and exemption stops at 73), nobody likes messing with the FI as it is expensive to work on and has a reputation of not being able to 'mod' it for performance...then there's that weight thing... There are a half dozen 280's under $500 within 20 miles of my house that I know of. There's a fairly complete one down the street for $100 (auto). BTW, if you want to see a 280 without bumpers...see my car in gallery... steve77

"I'll gladly accept any sponsorship " McConnell Construction is good for at least couple feet of rollbar pad.... steve(McConnell)77

Weight! Wait! Wate!....I am in favour of the stiffer body of the 280's and what if you have a 280 that only weighs about as much as a 240 with a really fat driver? Some of our 280's have been on serious diets! steve(2500lbs)77

"240z 0-100 = 7.8sec 260z 0-100 = 10.0sec 280z 0-100 = 9.4sec (6.8 turbo)" Funny, I don't remember the 280z coming with a turbo, but you Kiwi's would know all about 280z's! steve77

My car is a weekend budget-mobile. It is very obvious when it is parked at a show that it does not have the big dollars or thousands of hours of meticulious work behind it. When I bought my car, I made a list of goals. I wanted a cheap, head-turning, reasonably fast, aggressive looking and sounding plaything. But those were secondary. Primary were: 1. The car must run PERFECTLY, every time, no fuss, no fiddling, no stress. 2. The car must stop perfectly. 3. The suspension must be taught and squeak/creak free. 4. The interior must be perfect. For #1, every hose, tube, pipe and wire was replaced. Every plug, filter, fluid, clamp replaced. ZX oil pump, sending unit, K&N, electric fan, header, now exhaust..... and on and on and on. Every possible thing I could bolt on and replace to make the motor happy. For #2, Every brake component was replaced. Everything. EVERYTHING. At the same time, I did the clutch master and slave. For #3, Lowered/ stiffer springs, Tokico's, 225/50/15's on decent wheels, and the complete urethane bushing master kit. For #4, All the interior panels were refinished, full dash cap, interior shell stipped and soundproofed and I had an upholstery shop do a complete custom carpet (charcoal) and seat (light grey) job. All new fasteners. Car purchased 10/2001...........$850 Car was 'finished' 4/2002........$6000 not including labor. I am very happy with the results. steve77

I also would like the more mechanically inclined among us to weigh in on a serious discussion concerning extentions. At the ZFESTwest show, they were EVERYWHERE. Everyone is running wheels with tons of negative offset (I think I have that right--FWD-style, 'flush' wheels). Adaptors everywhere. Half inch, One inch, 1 1/2" is really common, and I saw some that HAD to be near 2". Let's say you have perfect adaptors--no slip, perfect alignment, hub-oriented or not...whatever--does it affect Wheel Bearing geometry? To me, it doesn't seem like it would matter, but I have heard smatterings of otherwise. Anyone? steve77

>>"I also have 8 kids " Dang! Don't you know what causes that? steve77

Speaking of TV...Did anyone catch the 'True Life' or something like that on MTV about "Streetracing"? It's been on several times lately...It explores the ricer community (those are my words)...At the very end where they are showing legitimate drag racing programs, there is a 240 racing in one of the first clips. Orange. The thing was filmed right here in Socal--San Diego, I think..Anybody know who it is? And the guy at the end who is trying to collect on a $500 bet--DAMN, it sure looks like FLAMEZZZZZZ! steve77

Hey! Watch it....There is at least one 280z here.... steve77