WingZr0

Hi Bro! Love those Black Z's and those Silver rims set it off nicely . Arnes right, searce for a thread called "who has a set of these" with Performance Specialties as your 2 searce words and read that. Lots of info on the company but not your rims. Wheels on mine are Per Spec but believed to be American Racing "GT Model" as Specs, I was told, was just a distributor.

Nice lookin Z you got there . Been through New Mexico once during the Fall, beautiful piece of land. Likeing the color! Matches those sunsets, specially this time of year. Waitin since twelve, feels good to be sit'n the drivers seat huh . What year and Vin yours? 1977 HLS30-360104 over here.

Try Les Schwab Tires. They do complete Poly Bushings for these cars and other parts as well. I know i got a set out of the last 2 right and 1 left front brake calibers they had in the entire chain, so i'm pretty sure they can get your tie rods too.

For a decent running Z such as yours described i say about $3,000. But with the upgrades you say it could go 3 to 4 or $5,000 especially on Ebay.

It's his own foult. Bird my butt crack, whats he doing on a cell phone while driving anyway?

THAYNX ALL, advice i'll follow. And will definately watch out those toy truckers . Have been smelling gas last few days when flooring it so surely running rich. Will get a bud to follow me around. Deans good at building race cars but i just remembered theres a guy in town that used to be a Nissan Dealer mechanic when these where new. I'll get him to spec her out with ya's tips. Lets get it right the first time, already going through withdrawls . THANX again all. ~Z~

Well i loosened the two mounting screws and you can turn it a little to the left or right. Turn left the revs go up, turn right they go down. But still theres something else that needs to be down? Not sure i understand setting the contacts, is there i link to that part of the FSM you speak?

Went to the SMOG place yesterday to get Ruby tested, DIDN'T PASS ! ! 1977 280Z 4 speed by the way in California. The guy was cool and over looked the K&N cold air intake and hooked it up for free first to where it stood but that has nothing to do with this. The numbers came back with a CO (Carbon Monoxide) count of 6% at idle and the same nuber at 2500rpm. He said it being an older car I might be allowed 2% but those numbers where WAY TO HIGH. Told me she was running extreamly rich on gas and misfiring at idle and to have a specialist in these cars check it out. A fellow at the tow yard later that day said, "A missaligned TPS sensor can cause the problem". Calling back at the SMOG place the man said that could be true. I found out the new TPS I got from Blake was set on max and dailed it down hearing the rpms die down aswell, so I left it at halfway. Anyway not wanting to waste my money I made a few trips then took Ruby back home and parked her, AGAIN :mad: , and had a look at her today. Found that my oil was at the low level line after being new and full just 600 miles ago so whats that about ? Checked the coolant and it's still clean but the oil was a darker color and had a pungent smell like sour gasoline for a lack of a better refernce but thats what it seemed. Might be me but it did look a little running . Must mention while on my rounds I backed out a parking space and saw dark colored oil pools on the ground, didn't think it was me though. Checked all the usual places today under the engine and oil pump and found no signs of any leaks, no where not even the oil pan gasket. Also she's not even burning blue oil smoke out the tail pipe so I doubt I'm buring it off unless all this has something to due with my valves still needing to be adjusted and a head gasket thats very slower seeping coolant only and nothing else. What should I do or is there more to this problem than a leaky gasket and valve job. ~Z~

Can't say i noticed any of those you mentioned Camguy but the engine has only 1,100 miles and the battery fully charged. Stayed at 14 only spiking to full on start up. Well the day i noticed this i sat in the car and turned the ignition to the ALT position then played the radio for 20 or 30 minuts. When i finally started the car thats when i saw it, thought that the battery was drained some but she starts and runs fine other than that.

Is it normal for the dash volt guage to fluctuate up and down with the blinking of the turn signals or drop a bit from full to about 12 then back up again when you hit the gas?

The Z gets the conversation going, it's your job to do the rest. So in other words it depends on the guy and tha chick. In my experience they like the funny, kind, caring cats with a heart for adventure. As for me I like the bubbly types and chicks who work at Starbucks ~Z~

The front's not so bad once you change the wheels and throw some paint on it, but that rear end .... .... :paranoid: :tapemouth ~Z~

Clean build Bro What are the night light pictures looking, it glows Orange ? (edit cought that one, so Green?) Might I suggest, If you like, in the future you can switch out those hands for a more racier look with something red. ~Z~

Thanks Bro, I took her out on a Test drive and she didn't leak at all. I was afraid the high preasure in the line would blow it out. I take it that side of the damper is some sort of preasure release?

Take it with you? ! 3 years ! ? Take that Damn thing with you and hit the Nurburgring! Take it with you, I find it utterly disgraceful thats even a question ~Z~ . . . Not to mention the Autobanh .

Got a new fuel damper part number 22675 N4205 a metal UNISIA JECS design. MSA said take the bolt off the old one and put on the new one hand tight. But the new one has a rubber plug in the hole where the bolt would go and the hole is smaller with no threads. Is the rubber plug a replacement for the bolt and will it hold the gas in as it seats pretty snug?

57 ? In the words of the cops from the South Park episode, when the teacher is sleeping with Ike, "Niceeee"

Yep thats Arne haha . On my Z i call it the Sblake option package! Nissan dealer here says they can special order it for $110 on 2 day shipping, same price as MSA but with my only car down how im gonna pick it up ! Since the engines new figured it was matter of time before something else broke, didn't think it'd take so soon though. So what next, a shock strut. . . . ?

Jay at MSA said the diaphram in the Fuel Damper is ruptured and thats why it's leaking at the bolt. I tightened the bolt tight as i could and the line backed up causing a leak at a hose clamp just ahead of the damper, so don't ever try that. So the last one is on the way from MSA . YEAH, Ruby's been parked .

OK. I get home, get out the car and walk around the back to the passenger side to unload my stash, sniff sniff gasoline. Kneel down by the back tire, sniff sniff gasoline. I get down on the ground and look under the fuel pump and see a quarter sized spot on the floor. Put my finger in it, sniff sniff gasoline. Drips twice more then stops. Start the Z up again, drip drip gasoline! Feel around and all the hose are dry and clamped and find the the drip is coming from above the pump. Feel around some more and find the top of the Fuel Damper is wet! What is causing this, is the littlle bolt looking thing on top the damper coming loose or is this thing dying and on it's way out? Thyanx ~Z~ PS thanx for the TPS BLAKE, it works fine.

Ain't that some S*&T ! She didn't scan the thing right. Serves meright for not looking first. Heres whats left of it IN Jpeg and PDF format below :mad: staples scan.pdf

Looks freeekin sweet under there mate

Just a heads up it turns out I don't need my Master Poly Bushing kit for my 77 Z after all. If any one needs it I can sale for less than MSA. All still in factory bags, otherwise they'll be on my shelf Works for 74-78 BTW (Edit: Sold them yo!) ~Z~

Stay AWAY from this stuff. Leak is nowhere near as bad but still didn't stop 100%. Maybe 98%. You can see a thin line of green along the seem of the gasket. Took 2-3 days driving to get that much to work. Dean (my Mechanic) said to use the silver colored Bars Leak but the guy at Napa said Silver Seal, even though Bars Leak was right next to it. Should of listiened to Dean :pirate:. Anycase Dean also mentioned the head beening long as a common thing for this when first shown the leak but said it be ok for now and retorqing might do the trick. Also mentioned he didn't use any gasket sealant at all, I for one had the idea of the copper spray aswell and would definately used that stuff on the head had I been putting the engine together. Don't see any harm in using the copper spray for a guranteed seal in the future unless someone has a reason not too. I think I might pull the whole head off again but theres no oil in in the coolant still so I think Im fine for now. It's just my opinion but Bars Leak is a better meterial for the job it's asked to due as Silver Seal is a little bit like Malto Meal consitantsy. ~Z~

Crap, im getting some thrown in tomorrow and this is what you have to say