ea6driver

I'd say that they are purely cosmetic. These rubber end caps give the otherwise "unfinished" look of the metal drip rails a more finished look. I haven't gotten much response to this thread ... so I'm thinking that either they are "missing" on many Z's ... or that there simply isn't any way to source replacements. The Z in my photos is a '78 year model.

I'm missing a set of these for the right side drip rail. Two rubber end caps (one for the front and one for the rear) for the window drip rails. The attached pics show the ones for the left side drip rail. Does anyone know how/where I might be able to get a set for the right side?

Message was originally posted on the 1st Generation Z forum... but probably should have been posted here instead... Sorting through some boxes of old Z parts...and am having difficulty ID'ing the parts in the photo...any help is most appreciated. #1 looks like the switch that screws into the BCDD...but for what year? The connector tells me it's not for a 280Z (75-78) ... 280ZX maybe? Not sure what any of the other parts are...

Agreed...I think I need to repost this on the 280ZX forum

Sorting through some boxes of old Z parts...and am having difficulty ID'ing the parts in the photo...any help is most appreciated. #1 looks like the switch that screws into the BCDD...but for what year? The connector tells me it's not for a 280Z (75-78) ... 280ZX maybe? Not sure what any of the other parts are...

zed2...thanks for replying...I'm in Oak Harbor, WA (it's in my signature)...I'll keep that in mind, but I think I'm gonna do a little more research before I'd consider buying an entire exhaust...my system seems to be in great shape except for the muffler...give me some time to eliminate all the other possibilities.

78 280Z...stock exhaust system...muffler is rusting from the bottom... would like to solicit the forum expertise on the best way to proceed. The rest of the exhaust system is in great shape. I'm considering 3 options... 1) Repair the muffler. Maybe use a couple of screen mesh patches along with a JB weld type product. A quick, easy, but only temporary repair. Car is garaged and is only driven a few hundred miles per year...never driven in adverse conditions...given that, repair would prolly last quite a while. 2) Replace the muffler with a similar (exact) sized replacement muffler....Internet search has revealed that OEM-sized replacement muffler options are limited...if I could find the correct sized replacement muffler, I think this would be my preferred option. 3) Install a "twin stack exhaust resonator" that I've had stored for over 30 years...see photo...not sure how loud this would be compared to "stock" noise levels....if it's not too loud, I'd be happy to go this route too.

M5 x 0.8

A sincere thanks to all of you who have made positive contributions to this post...Terrapin Z is shipping me the parts I need...and as usual, I have learned something more about our Z's that I didn't know before...this website continues to be a gem for researching all things "Z"...I am always quick to recommend this site to any Z owners I meet that aren't already aware of it. Now...on to the next problem!

I just wanted to add an interesting development to this story about these throttle body parts. As suggested, I posted a "Wanted to Buy" ad in the classified section of this website (it's still there). Shortly afterward I received a response from someone identifying themself as "week2479" telling me to PM (contact) a second party "klxn300897@gmail.com" who, they said, had what I needed. So that's what I did... When I received a response from the second party, his name was "Logan Key"...and he said he had what I needed. I tried to get him to answer several questions that I had about what he was selling...but all he seemed interested in was getting me to send him the money for the spring ($30). After several emails it became apparent to me that he was only interested in scamming me...also, interestingly, the original response to my classified ad from "week2479" has now been deleted from my ad posting. Thought you all would be interested in hearing this...so....I'm still looking for these parts...if you read this and would like to sell them to me I'd appreciate it if you could respond to my "Wanted To Buy" post....Thanks!

View Advert 78 280Z Throttle Body Spring and "Washer" Want to buy the two parts identified by the black arrows in the attached photo. The first part is the throttle position return spring (the larger spring in the photo). It attaches to the throttle linkage at one end and to a bracket at the bottom of the throttle body at the other end. The second part is a "washer" looking part that is located at both ends of the smaller spring when it's attached to the throttle body "axle". Thanks! Advertiser ea6driver Date 07/18/2023 Price $1 Category Parts Wanted Year 1978 Model 280Z

Thanks Yarb....I'll place a "Wanted to Buy" post on this website... In the attached photo I've drawn two black arrows next to the parts I need. We've already discussed the larger spring. Now my new question concerns the part identified by the other black arrow. From reviewing other sources, I'm pretty sure there are supposed to be two of these small "washer" looking parts...one positioned at each end of the smaller spring when it is installed on the side of the throttle body...along the "axle". Mine only had this one washer...so I'll need to locate a second one. Additionally, when I removed these parts from my throttle body, some small pieces of broken black plastic fell out from inside the smaller spring...I'm thinking that originally there was some sort of plastic spacer inside the spring that deteriorated over time. Can anyone confirm this? And perhaps post a photo of what this plastic part looked like?

78 280Z

Where would you suggest that I could source a replacement return spring? Mine is damaged (and very rusty)...I'm thinking that aftermarket options would be suitable...just wondering if anyone in the group had already investigated and solved this problem before.

Thought I'd post a quick update on my progress rebuilding the Nabco clutch master cylinder. I removed the piston/spring out of the bore today. Tapped the hole in the reservoir as recommended above. I didn't have a sacrificial screw to cut off for the hole in the bottom, so I had to order a plug for it. The threads are very fine (M5 X 0.5). Screwed it in and forced the piston out using my grease gun. Next step is to locate/purchase a Nabco rebuild kit.

Thank you all for the comments and info on my Somitomo plug wires...I at least know now that I definitely shouldn't just throw them in the trash. I think I'll try and clean them up as best I can (probably won't get them to look as good as those in the pics above) and install them to check their functionality. Wish they were labeled "1978"!

I found these spark plugs wires in a box of Z parts I've probably had stored for over 25 years...and I'm trying to decide whether to keep them, sell them, or throw them away. They are made by Sumitiomo. Two of the spark plug boots are angled (#1 and #6). They all measure under 8K resistance (it looks like they are labeled 16K). Additionally they are labeled "1986". As you can see from the photos they are in very good overall condition. Though I can't remember, I'm thinking that I must have removed/replaced them with aftermarket wires at some point. Can anyone tell me if these are unusual, special or rare in any way for Datsun Z cars? (mine is a 78). Was this plug wire set an original set Datsun used on Z cars from the factory?

Holy cow Patcon! That is EXACTLY what I was hoping to find. Thank you so much. Now I am on a mission to find those screws I'll need to complete this job.

Captain....I'm not sure what you're refering to...could have possibly been something to do with a brake cylinder, but I honestly don't remember. This is the first time I've had this sort of problem with a clutch master cylinder. Edit:....Never mind Captain O...I see now that comment about tapping a hole was directed to Patcon, not me...thank you for mentioning that. As far as simply discarding it and buying a new one as suggested...first, I'm retired...I don't mind tinkering with things...to either fix them or just gain a better understanding as to how things work...second, while replacement cylinders are cheap and easy to come by, as far as I can tell, the original equipment NABCO clutch (and brake) cylinders are much harder to find...especially in "as new" condition. I'm not gonna loose any sleep over this problem...I just thought the group might have some good suggestions.

I recently found an old used Nabco 5/8" clutch master cylinder stowed away in a box in my garage. It had been stored there for many years...like over 20 years...I decided that I'd try and restore/rebuild it. The first problem I encountered is that the piston is "stuck" inside the cylinder bore. After reading the inter web and watching Youtube videos about how to solve this problem, I squirted AeroKroil into both sides of the cylinder bore and let it sit overnight. I then went to Harbor Freight and bought a grease gun with the intent of pumping grease into the cylinder bore behind the piston to force it out. However, as I was pumping grease into the cylinder, the grease began coming out of the hole in the bottom of the reservoir before the piston started moving. So my question is...how do I effectively plug the hole in the bottom of the reservoir so I can pressurize the cylinder bore enough to push out the piston with the grease? Or, alternatively, is there a better way of attacking/solving this problem?

I actually considered that....and may still go that route. One question...how do you know for certain that this plastic cover was in the earlier Z ignition switches, and not the later ones? I was thinking that this was actually a 77 or 78 switch...

Today I was able to remove the black plastic cover that houses the two wires. Unfortunately, I was not able to loosen the wire connector and remove the wire strands still crimped inside it. I tried using a pick tool and a 1/16 drill bit with no success. The wire connector is housed pretty deep inside the plastic cover and there just isn't much room to work in there. I think that it's probably doable with the right tools and patience, but I just didn't have the right tools and my patience ran out after about an hour of fiddling around with it.

Thanks for all those useful comments.... I'll work on it some more this afternoon and report my success!