Cuong Nguyen

Hi all, that set up looks like its using aftermarket efi throttle bodies. I have some 45mm ones that are a Webber bolt pattern (ie can be bolted onto a triple Webber manifold). Mine are made by Speed-Technology/efi hardware in Melbourne/Australia Just accumulating parts for my 3.1L engine build (next project after the RB, but you're not supposed to know) This is their link: http://www.speed-technology.com/efi_intro_animation.html

Hi all, I may be biased as I’ve gone this path for my 240z, but I think that the RB26DETT is one of the ultimate engines to put into a early zed. Others argue that the L series can make lots of power, and it’s true, they can make decent power. But take into account the cost of building a stroked L series engine and were you end up after you have added EFI throttle bodies, management and the rest. The late model design of the RB series of engines will be the pick and recommendation from me, you don’t need to go “all the way” as I have and choose the RB26DETT, other engines are available, in both atmo and turbo form, ranging from 2L to 3L. A very nice one would be the RB25DET for example. AND you will always have the choice, (oh the choices, sometimes it complicates things!!) of putting forged pistons, better turbos, custom manifolds, larger injectors, more efficient intercooler, external wastegate, cams, cam gears, conrods, and so on..... Anyway, all to their own!!!

HI 240Z TT, Very nice set up you have there, interesting to say the least. I have a turbo 240 as well, I'm using a RB26DETT in mine, you can see my progress photos by clicking the album link on the left. Do you have anymore photos??? Maybe you can post some more under your album section!!!

Hi all, I'm using a KAAZ LSD centre in my R200 diff. It is a 1.5 way multi clutch plate type. KAAZ is a top brand that is made in Japan. Here is a link to their US web page: http://www.kaazusa.com/ Not cheap, but quality never is!!!

Hi all, on my RB26DETT 240Z I'm using ROH ZS 17x8.5 wheels (they are made in Australia) I'm running 235/45/17 tyres on them and have no rubbing problems at all. BUT NOTE that I have modified suspension AND have rolled up the inner lips of the rear guards so that they are flat and vertically upwards, but this doesn't change the width of the body externally or the look from outside. Also it is very important that the offset of the rims are correct to eliminate rubbing problems.

Hi all, a good friend of mine has a triple Mikuni set up for sale, I'm not sure if they are the 40mm or the 44mm, I'll have to check. These are mounted on an SK intake manifold and have all the linkages between them, they are in very good condition, I'll get some photos of the set up soon.

ok all, I have posted the photos and they have been approved. click on the link on the left to view them. The only bars that I don't have pictures of are the ones above my head (the roof section). As for the dash, the car is getting a new interior now, I'll have pics soon!!! Any comments on the cage (don't forget that I had to make it so that the front parts of the cage could be "hidden" with trim as only a half cage is road legal here in Western Australia)

Hi all, I'm using a KAAZ 1.5 way LSD in my R200 diff. It’s a clutch plate type LSD. H Here is the link for the US page for KAAZ: http://www.kaazusa.com/ KAAZ is a top Japanese manufacturer.

Hi Phread, at the front I'm using 330mm BMW 8 series rotors (V8 & V12 BMWs) at the back they are 26mm thick, cant really remember what they are I think they are the fronts from a Z32 300ZX or 280ZX, anyway they were all bought new.

Hi all, I have a chro-moly cage in my '73 240Z that is behind the dash. I had to cut the dash and the metal frame inside to make it fit again. I will post pics of it in my album section; they should be available once approved. I will take pictures of the dash when it comes back from the motor trimmers (its being "reconditioned")

Also note that there are two types of lines available (the factory only uses steel ones) 1) steel 2) copper/brass?? go with the steel ones as they dont "flex" as I've been told that the other ones (2) can do so. But the 2) are easier to bend if you don't have the proper tools!!!

Hi there, If you don’t want to buy the factory ones, you can always get a brakes specialist workshop to make you some that are the right length and then you can buy a bending tool to make them fit the same of the car body. Otherwise take them off the car and bring the whole lot to them (including the bit you cut off) and they can bend it the same as the factory ones. But I doubt it would be any cheaper than the factory one, they might be!!! Good luck.

Hi all, I agree with Ron, try and get the CR to 8.5:1 and have a good real time programmable EFI computer plus a good intercooler. Make sure that the tuner knows what he/she is doing and the tuning is done on a dyno, not off the seat style tuning! However I wouldn't personally drop CR into the 7s, I would stay between 8 and 8.5:1 Good luck with your turbo zed project (you have seen the light)

Hi Alan, The RB26DETT has standard internals for the moment; the only modifications that I have done so far are external, "bolt on" mods. I do not anticipate on running high boost as the power that the engine will produce will more than satisfy my requirements for some time. If reliability becomes an issue, I will replace the factory pistons with forged items in the future, as well as some other internal components while the spanners are out of the toolbox!!!

Hi Alan, my RB26DETT (now just a single T???) 240Z is now up and running. It will be dyno tuned sometime mid week, providing that all goes well. Next it will go to the motor trimmers, and then it will be a home stretch from there (glass and doors fit out) I'm still deciding what to do with regards to the rear Brembo brakes, as they don't have the provision for a cable operated handbrake (hydraulic is not road legal here) How is your Z432 replica project going??? I'm dying to see some pictures of it, last I heard of it, it was down at the panel shop. Cuong Nguyen.

Hi Alan, thanks for your prompt reply. No, I'm not planning to buy one (well, not in the near future anyway) but was just druelling at the amazing range of RARE S30 cars that are available in Japan. That Z432 would cost around $83,000 AUD at an exchange rate of 60 Yen to a $1 AUD, and that is before transport fees to the shipping ports, shiiping and container fees, insurance, import duties and tax!!! One day Alan, one day!!! There was one Z432-R for sale also (orange with grey??? bonnet). Did all the Z432-R come out with that colour scheme?

Hi all, found a Z432 for sale in Japan. Yes, the one with the S20 engine (twin cam, 9.5:1 compression, triple Solex carburattors, 160 BHP @ 7000RPM) Does anyone know how much does this price mean??? S46?@ƒtƒFƒAƒŒƒfƒB?[Z?@432 498–œ‰~ 5F?AƒAƒ‹ƒ~ƒzƒC?[ƒ‹?A‘S‚Ä“úŽY?ƒ?³•”•iŽg—p?I?I ?V•i•”•i‘½?” Is it 498,000,000 yen or 49,800,000 yen or 4,980,000 yen or 498,000 yen ???? HS30-H maybe you can help to decode the price and details????

Hi all, Regarding the comment by Mr Camouflage and the back to back dyno power runs to test air filters on a Turbo Nissan Silvia (200SX in Australia and 240SX in the US). That show that you’re referring to is called Racescar and is shown on channel 31 in Western Australia. The results do not hold true on all cars, the reason that the Silvia lost power when using no air filter was because it is equipped with an “air flow meter”. When the dyno cooling fan is blowing huge amounts of air into the air flow meter with no filter attached, it is sending “strange” signals to the ECU, which then reacts to “save” the engine by altering engine tune parameters. If you were to do the same with a non “air flow meter” equipped car, you’ll find the results will be different.