zKars

This winter I'm working on restoring a club members 12/70 240, and today along with many other things, I had to remove the mud flaps. Now, you wouldn't expect this to be a process that typically warrants sharing with you, but I am sure I win some kind of award for what I found and what I had to do. Just had to show you. As you will see by the first picture, there were eight different fasteners with a variety of nuts/washers holding the two front mud flaps to the fender, four each side, requiring, if I remember, seven trips back and forth to the tool box to get the right wrench/screw driver/nut driver/plier etc. What impressed me most is time it likely took that guy to find those bits and pieces was about the same time it would have taken to go buy 8 sheet metal screws from the store. What was he thinking!? Taking them both off required thirty minutes. And the owner wonders how my billable hours add up so fast.... Mind you this is the same car that I found many other ingenious solutions "applied" during past "restorations" such as the fuse box replacement noted in the second picture. A first glance, you think, hey, that's slick! Those little breakers are great!. The time required to fabricate it was not small!! But think; when you blow a "fuse", how do you tell which one is tripped? Sure, they reset shortly, but if it blows again, and again, how do you tell which circuit has the problem!!?!? Arghhh.... There is much more to share, but this was the best so far. Wish me luck! Jim

Shadesh: I have all the bits and pieces you need. The eccentric, insulator (between pump body and the head), the gaskets, and a used pump for that matter. PM me and we will work out the details. Jim

Mr Blakeney is bang on again. Do not use the stock EFI pump without a reg. The regulator that NissanMan has a link to requires a 3/8 diameter return line to regulate for the flow rates desired. This is far larger than the stock lines making this reg unsuitable. Don't ask how I know. Best solution of all for stock SU's is to use a stock mechanical pump. Quiet, no wiring, simple. Here's hoping you have a head with the open casting to mount it, and the eccentric on the cam sprocket to drive it. If you have a stock 75 L28E, you very likely have all that. I supply a set of triple 45's Solex on my stroker quite nicely with a stock pump, after much grief trying to find the right combo of high capacity fancy electric pumps and regulators to work consistently. If you need a list of what you need, let me know. Lots of great folks here to help you get it right. Jim

I would suggest welding up the leak. Simple, cheap. Fast. I have a j-pipe if you get desparate . Let me know z240@shaw.ca Jim

Joce: Scott and I need the battery tray/firewall/wheel well/fender area around the battery tray for his 71 resto. I'll send details tonight when I get home. Thanks! Jim

Above the ECU on the driver kick panel It has two squarish (6?) pin plugs that plug into it. The screw that holds its bracket down is real fun to remove....

I have a complete front 4 screw SU you can have for $45 including shipping. Send me a pm if you're interested. Jim

This is the only setup I have seen specifically for Z's. http://www.betamotorsports.com/products/products.php?cat=3 John can also help with advice on this I'm sure. Jim

In my back yard, with about 5 others with no home. pm me if your interested. $50 shipped to your front door. Jim

pm sent with pictures and pricing John. Let me know. Jim

pm sent John. Let me know if I can help.

These bolts are all 6mm x 1.00 thread. As to length, the arm rest bolts are about 1", the pull bolts are more like 3/4" . Heads have trapped washers. Hope this helps. Jim

My creak was caused at the pin that goes through and connects the pedal arm and clutch rod clevis. You know the one, the one with the little lock pin that is SO much fun to put back in while lying upside down under the dash. I went throught the usual spray lube on the spring, boot, rod etc and it would go away for a while. Even changed the master thinking it was internal to it. It worked for a while, then it came back..... Grrrrr..... Conclusion? replace the pin (its worn from years of contact pressure). If you rotate it out if its usual "resting" place, the creak will go away. Once it moves back to its old spot, "squeak creak, AHHHHHHH!!! " Jim

The Compact does "fit", I put it in my 73. Great cooling capacity. It requires that the cowl area directly above the new fan be "modified" with a body hammer to raise the roof slightly, and the trans tunnel to be "lowered" slightly where the drain fitting sits. This is all in the name of getting it to sit as close to the firewall as is necessary to get it to fit behind the dash and sit level. It is a tight fit, the mini fits much better as the fan is oriented differently making it shorter overall. Reminds me to complete the document that describes all this and to post it! Jaspendlove, send me a pm with your e-mail and I'll forward all my pics at least. Jim

PM sent.

I'll look tonight and see if I have a spare. I'm in Calgary. Yours for the price of the stamp if I have one. Jim

Einer Brasso still runs and owns the Brasso Nissan dealership in Calgary, although It is no longer in its original location. I'll have to ask him if he remembers those events and pictures. I'm quite sure he will. "White hatting" special visitors is still a Calgary tradition. This is a story worth sharing with the rest of the Calgary Z Club members. It is very special to show the connection that little old Calgary had as a part of those historic times. If the trip 26th suggests ever happens, Calgary will do its part to support the effort!! Jim

The end result is worth the effort. I had the same trouble. Get a small flat blade screwdriver, jeweler size, like what you tighten your glasses with. Press down on the bulb, into the socket, hard, with one finger, then use the Screwdriver blade to "help" the pin on the side of the bulb base that you can see seated in the j-slot in the plastic housing up, then push, pry etc to move/rotate until its clear of the j-slot. Might want to wear a glove on the holding hand, that screwdriver bit likes to slip into the flesh with the amount of force you need.. The new bulbs go in much easier, and will make an amazing difference. Also clean your dimming rheostat to help make sure you have full voltage on the bulbs! Good luck! Jim

Do the vacuum check for sure first. I would disconnect each carb from the linkage and CONFIRM that all the butterflys are closed. I have had plenty of trouble with this in the past, though usually just one rogue carb being slightly open more than the others. Can't imagine other than something really wrong in the carbs, how you'de get 4K with the carbs closed. Good luck. Jim

Sorry, obviously the picture of the mat I posted is the passenger side mat. Duh. It was found on the driver side of the car when I got it, upside down and fitting very poorly. 137is left hand drive. Jim

Here the picture of the drivers side mat from 137. Finally. Sorry for the delay.

MSA's info page on this pulley; http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM06/10-2139 has the following text. "Model Restrictions: For L-Series engines only. Not for use with smog pumps, power steering, or air conditioning. " It seems that adding pulleys is likely not an alternative with this damper. I have the same problem. Anyone need a brand new damper? I think there are two available now.... Jim

Dave: Welcome to the forum and Welcome to Sunny Alberta! Nice group of cars you have there. There is quite an active Z cult (I mean enthusiast, oops...) group in Calgary, check out calgaryzclub.ca for details. Lots of support and help. Let us know what we can do for ya! Jim

HLS30 00137 (11/69) had the rubber mats up front. The car was originally purchased in Calgary Alberta Canada. Only one remained, the passenger side, when I acquired it. All the others were there and in good shape. I'll get my pictures of it on here when I get home. I know someone who would like a repro of the driver side! Jim

Dave: I understand the work and materials that goes into what you did. $200ish is a very fair price. The results are outstanding. Would you be willing to supply only the formed ABS sheet with mounted LED's and wiring to the bulb base for those of us that want to do the rest of the conversion/cleaning ourselves? Might make it more attractive $$-wise for more of your fan base. Where would your price point be on that if you were willing to do it? PS: Glad your back in selling your other harnesses now that you found the plug supplier. Jim