zKars

pm sent with pictures and pricing John. Let me know. Jim

pm sent John. Let me know if I can help.

These bolts are all 6mm x 1.00 thread. As to length, the arm rest bolts are about 1", the pull bolts are more like 3/4" . Heads have trapped washers. Hope this helps. Jim

My creak was caused at the pin that goes through and connects the pedal arm and clutch rod clevis. You know the one, the one with the little lock pin that is SO much fun to put back in while lying upside down under the dash. I went throught the usual spray lube on the spring, boot, rod etc and it would go away for a while. Even changed the master thinking it was internal to it. It worked for a while, then it came back..... Grrrrr..... Conclusion? replace the pin (its worn from years of contact pressure). If you rotate it out if its usual "resting" place, the creak will go away. Once it moves back to its old spot, "squeak creak, AHHHHHHH!!! " Jim

The Compact does "fit", I put it in my 73. Great cooling capacity. It requires that the cowl area directly above the new fan be "modified" with a body hammer to raise the roof slightly, and the trans tunnel to be "lowered" slightly where the drain fitting sits. This is all in the name of getting it to sit as close to the firewall as is necessary to get it to fit behind the dash and sit level. It is a tight fit, the mini fits much better as the fan is oriented differently making it shorter overall. Reminds me to complete the document that describes all this and to post it! Jaspendlove, send me a pm with your e-mail and I'll forward all my pics at least. Jim

PM sent.

I'll look tonight and see if I have a spare. I'm in Calgary. Yours for the price of the stamp if I have one. Jim

Einer Brasso still runs and owns the Brasso Nissan dealership in Calgary, although It is no longer in its original location. I'll have to ask him if he remembers those events and pictures. I'm quite sure he will. "White hatting" special visitors is still a Calgary tradition. This is a story worth sharing with the rest of the Calgary Z Club members. It is very special to show the connection that little old Calgary had as a part of those historic times. If the trip 26th suggests ever happens, Calgary will do its part to support the effort!! Jim

The end result is worth the effort. I had the same trouble. Get a small flat blade screwdriver, jeweler size, like what you tighten your glasses with. Press down on the bulb, into the socket, hard, with one finger, then use the Screwdriver blade to "help" the pin on the side of the bulb base that you can see seated in the j-slot in the plastic housing up, then push, pry etc to move/rotate until its clear of the j-slot. Might want to wear a glove on the holding hand, that screwdriver bit likes to slip into the flesh with the amount of force you need.. The new bulbs go in much easier, and will make an amazing difference. Also clean your dimming rheostat to help make sure you have full voltage on the bulbs! Good luck! Jim

Do the vacuum check for sure first. I would disconnect each carb from the linkage and CONFIRM that all the butterflys are closed. I have had plenty of trouble with this in the past, though usually just one rogue carb being slightly open more than the others. Can't imagine other than something really wrong in the carbs, how you'de get 4K with the carbs closed. Good luck. Jim

Sorry, obviously the picture of the mat I posted is the passenger side mat. Duh. It was found on the driver side of the car when I got it, upside down and fitting very poorly. 137is left hand drive. Jim

Here the picture of the drivers side mat from 137. Finally. Sorry for the delay.

MSA's info page on this pulley; http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PEM06/10-2139 has the following text. "Model Restrictions: For L-Series engines only. Not for use with smog pumps, power steering, or air conditioning. " It seems that adding pulleys is likely not an alternative with this damper. I have the same problem. Anyone need a brand new damper? I think there are two available now.... Jim

Dave: Welcome to the forum and Welcome to Sunny Alberta! Nice group of cars you have there. There is quite an active Z cult (I mean enthusiast, oops...) group in Calgary, check out calgaryzclub.ca for details. Lots of support and help. Let us know what we can do for ya! Jim

HLS30 00137 (11/69) had the rubber mats up front. The car was originally purchased in Calgary Alberta Canada. Only one remained, the passenger side, when I acquired it. All the others were there and in good shape. I'll get my pictures of it on here when I get home. I know someone who would like a repro of the driver side! Jim

Dave: I understand the work and materials that goes into what you did. $200ish is a very fair price. The results are outstanding. Would you be willing to supply only the formed ABS sheet with mounted LED's and wiring to the bulb base for those of us that want to do the rest of the conversion/cleaning ourselves? Might make it more attractive $$-wise for more of your fan base. Where would your price point be on that if you were willing to do it? PS: Glad your back in selling your other harnesses now that you found the plug supplier. Jim

Looks like a great install. I'll be doing the same to my 73 shortly, and to a buddies 77. I'de like to see pics of the piping and underhood routing, as I'm debating using stainless braid or the soft alum like you. Can give specifics on the custom hoses you used? Why did you go with the mini? I would prefer the smaller unit as well, but are you satisfied with the cooling capacity? Any advice is appreciated. Do post lots of pics. Jim

Dave: After reading this last week I ordered a bunch of connectors and new pins for my projects from vintage connections. Just came in (fantastic service). Their connectors fit perfectly with our harnesses. See attached pictures of the 6 pin plugs. They should do nicely for your projects. You're back in business! Seeing those nice white plugs makes all the stock yellowed connectors look very bad. Might have to change them all now, including the pins, certainly the high-current connections at the fuse block, light connections etc anyway. Hey, I saw your car on Friday night at MSA. You win! Fantastic lighting all around. Nice job. Jim

I believe you may have mis-read the specs or found a bad reference. The specs from the 76 Factory Service Manual are: Hot Intake 0.25 mm or 0.0098 inches (0.010") Exh 0.30 mm or 0.0118 inches (0.012") Cold Intake 0.20 mm or 0.0079 inches (0.008") Exh 0.25 mm or 0.0098 inches (0.010") Check your clearances again with these new settings!! Jim

Matches: I will make no judgement about the quality of the question, only assume it to be caused by the excesses which you have likely indulged in over this festive season, or the long hours doing the swap. Or both. Or neither. Positive battery cable to the starter. There is a large 8mm bolt sticking out of the solenoid on top of it with nothing attached. That's the one. There are two similiar such terminals but one has a un-insulated copper wire going inside the starter. That's not the right one. The negative goes to one of the bolts that holds the starter to the bellhousing. If it already has two, take out the top one and see if the bolt dangling in your negative cable is the same size. Use the one that fits that best (length wise). Find out where the other bolt goes! Do you have four 10mm bolts in the bellhousing that go in from the trans side not counting the two that hold the starter? Are the two 8mm bolts at the bottom going through the rear cover and bell housing? Go over everything before you try starting. Make sure BOTH NEG and POS cable ends and hardware (all 4) are shiny clean!! Got a ground from the battery to the firewall? And of couse make sure the neg/pos on are on the right battery terminal!! Good luck and best of the season! Jim

The Atlantic Z guys have sold two Z's recently to folks here in Alberta that I am now helping with the resto's. Given what I saw and was told, both deals were done right IMHO. I personally know and trust one of the sellers (Blue). Long term Z community member. As always, remember you are buying an old used car, ask lots of questions, get lots of pictures and all the advice in above posts is spot on. Jim

Dave There is missing bendable flat piece of rubber coated metal that goes under the 10mm drivers side top transmission to block bolt, that you bend around the speedo cable where it passes this point. Must have left it off when you put the new trans in, or it was missing. There is then a similar bendable metal tab spot welded to the passenger floor pan, low in the trans tunnel, just ahead of the point where the cable goes into the tranmission, that serves as the rear cable attachment point. Good luck! Jim

sean240z Glad to hear you trip is going well. If you are still planning on going through Calgary Alberta in the next few days, if there is ANYTHING you need, Z related or otherwise, please let me know. The Calgary Z Club is at your service! Jim

Mike: I too bought my set the middle of last year and have not yet gotten them in. I'm very glad to hear you are happy with the result. I should do mine this spring when the dash is out getting "fixed". After doing the job, do you have advice or specific areas to watch that caused you grief that you can share to make my experience a little smoother? Jim

The throttle valve switch has two sets of contacts for your car. At idle, one set of contacts is closed. When the throttle is opened any amount they should open. At full throttle, the other set of contacts close but are open at all other times. This is for fuel enrichment correction. Easy thing to test. Perhaps all it needs adjusting or the contacts cleaned.