zKars

I use a zx space saver spare in my 73. I keep a little 12v air pump to inflate it. Its held down with the same screw in clamp. It leaves enough room in the spare tire well for all of the "other" spares I carry around just in case. ...(fuel pump, E12-80 module, coil, a few plugs, baloney sandwich, the usual stuff).

And it attaches to that stand through a hole, using one of the same metal clips that attaches the door panels to the door on 240's. Really fun to get in place. I've been known to put a sticky back rubber thing from the hardware store....

Its not often that I'm star stuck with automotive "flash", but this stuff is just plain purdy.... Maybe its the incredible build quality that attracts me. Just a few hours of nip here, tuck there and all will be well. Now somehow I must surpress feelings of "must have..." Just have to remember I won't be the one polishing that SS to keep it purdy...

I'm reasonably sure the thread is 8 x 1.25 mm. Not many, if any 8 x 1.5 mm threads on a Z.

Get some replacement 2"" ID vacuum hose and replace it. Patching it is tough. VintageAir.com has a couple of sizes of their A/C vent hose that is excelllent stuff too.

Hey Raltz! how's it going, eh? Still working on the project I see! You cannot accomplish your requirement with that two-connection bulb without additional circuitry. Instead you should put the original two filiment, 3 wire bulb with its stock wiring (should have enough wire to reach) into the socket of your new light housing. No wiring to do. I think I have a set of 260/280 signal lights if you get really stuck...

Rick: So sorry to hear about your dad. Not the best way to get a car, no matter how nice. Value on old cars is determined primarily by comparison to recent local sales of the same car in similar condition. The classified section of this forum has many examples for you. Check here http://www.datsunclassifieds.com or go throught the Members > Classified Ads link at the top of the page here. Feel free to post an ad for your car as well. Another popular way seems to be ask $20K, then keep dropping the price until someone finally buys it or you get an offer you can live with. Not very time efficient, but it works. The main issues to anyone who knows these cars will be rust status and mileage. I'de get that thoroughly evaluated by someone near you who knows how and where to look. Can make $1-2k or more difference in the price. There are many Z nuts and businesses in your area, be assured. Surely someone here will pipe up. And before someone else says it, there were no "factory" 240 louvers, only dealer installed ones... Same for alloy wheels and AC. (at least in North America) Good luck with the sale. Jim

Brilliant solution!!! Great to hear you found a fix. You have to find out what that acid is. Extremely useful stuff. Won't use it often, but when you need it, you need it!!!! This makes me think of applications like melting a broken off steel exhaust manifold stud out of an aluminum head... Probably overkill, but any chance to work with fire, explosives or dangerous chemicals must not be missed!

Whoa, for a minute there I thought I logged onto zcar.com by mistake this morning....

Whoa! youre assembling. Eithwr you have installed the steering arms upside down or you have the wrong ball joints. Wait! Are we talking tie rod ends or ball joint at the base of the struts? There are differences in the early ones. There is a great thread on here somewhere...

Possible timing issue, then maybe fuel pressure/delivery issue. Factory service manual downloades are here : xenons30.com

First things first. The distributor cap only goes on one way, the spacing between the two mounting screws is NOT the same. If you somehow managed to put it on the wrong way, that would dramatically off-center the cap causing the rotor to hit the inside of the cap when it turns, making it get "knocked around" as you put it. The distributor cap has a "1" embossed on it at plug #1, it points almost straight towards the front of the car. If it is now pointing back towards the intake manifold, you have to backward. Get the factory service manual here http://xenons130.com/reference.html and read the section on timing and the distributor for further clarification. It also has an extensive list of troubleshooting steps for the fuel injection and ECU in the "Fuel and Emissons" section. Study study study..... Do the tests methodically and stop replacing parts until you test all the systems. It only takes a basic ohms/volts test set and a fuel pressure gauge. And clean every connection on every wire on the fuel injection harness, starting with the head temp sensor connector on the plug side in the head close to #5. Good luck. And welcome to Classic Z cars!

Slight, I sent you a private message. Check your "Notifications" up at the top of the window by your user name.

Wow, tough one. I think your only hope is to try to poke the remaining tip out of the hole from the other side. The schematic blowup I have kinda suggests the there may be access from within the main bore directly beneath it, but even so, you'll have to come up with a very small diameter, and very stiff tool, like a 90 degree ended dental pick maybe? to have any hope of pushing it out. What you may be left with though is a hole that may not perform like the original hole if its too deformed. Even if you drill them out with a small wire drill bit, it may require some welding up and re-drilling with the right size, and in just the right spot. At the very very least, you'll have to make all 6 behave the same way! That's step two, after you extract those tips. Good luck

Heat is the secret indeed, that hose will soften up and let you get it out, flange or not. A hair dryer may not be able to heat enough unless you're real patient, and you can only heat a small area at one time. A paint removal heat gun is what I use. Just don't use open flame like a propane torch unless you have that gas tank in another room! That hose is real tough stuff, I've deformed them alot getting 'em in and out. Same for getting it back on the gas tank later. Heat and some lube on the inside of the hose will greatly increase the ease with which it slips back over the tank inlet. Good luck.

Let's not forget our friend the backup light switch, right next to the fill plug, that is usually MUCH easier to get out.

John Coffee I believed mentioned that he used a pnuematic hammer, the biggest one he could buy, with a pinpoint tip, to hammer spindle pins out. He claimed great success. Regarding the use of ACME thread, I would use the finest thread pitch I can find to apply the greatest tension with the least torque. And heat. lots of heat......

jeff In my experience with doing several extractions, the failures were all related to insufficient connection strength where the tool attaches to the 12mm threads of the spindle pin. I mean you either rip the threads right off, or the threadsert threads in the tool gets pulled apart. Its not a matter of pulling power from the threaded rod.

That guy has a career in writing car "for sale" ads. I have absolutely NO interest in that car, but after reading his description, I feel like I just have to have it! Save me!!!

Ok, now THAT'S a write-up. Thank you! Proceedure, part numbers AND full list of suppliers. A check valve in the line before the pump would also have lengthened the time after last start before the line drains and it becomes hard to prime again. The electric pump clearly removes any need for this. Maybe a suggested addition to your plumbing documentation. Part number 253006 on anplumbing.com for the #6 size. A mere $86! A check valve is a very generic and typically cheap thing. Anyone have a supplier for a small one with 1/4 NPT threads?

Blue if you really want a set of flat tops, let me know... Guess what showed up just last weekend. Very low km's....

Well, all the rubbers seem to be in Alberta!

All these z's and none with a dang fender off... The biggest grommets I have laying around look right, they fit 50mm holes. Need some?

The only place for slop in the system is either VERY worn gear on the crank and/or spindle, or something broken in the oil pump that has allowed the end of the drive to fall slightly back into the pump, allowing it to disengage the spindle when the gears mesh and the spindle rises, or a combo of the above. Just can't imagine there is enough room for movement anywhere in the system to allow this, but its the only thing I can think of...

Try these guys: vintagerubber.com