beandip

NO ! Not close to normal. I bet it has a clunk. I think you need a new punkin . I dont remember , do you have a 240 ? If so and if you dont want to make a drastic change in gearing and would like to have a bit better off the line . Find a automatic z they have 3.54, you most likely have 3.36s . Not a tremendis difference but it will be noticeable. Just a thought .

Mikew , I just checked the Behr web site , you are right several days before you can drive a car on there product, 72 hrs if you use cardboard under the tires. What you must go through to prep in my case is too much trouble. My garage is as old as my 240 . mriz I will look into daich and see what they say . Will , I cant remember the brand of the 2 part epoxy that H D sells , but if it scratches just sliding boxes on it , it is too fragile for what I want. Regular porch paint will do that , I have used that before . Plus it is easy to recoat . I was thinking of painting the areas where you can walk around the cars one color and under the car contrasting . Or maby a black and white checker board . I did my old hobby shop where I did all my reloading in CAMMO and coated it with urathane varish. It wore like vynal and looked great . I don't know about driveing on it though. If I can come up with something I will pass it on . If any one has anny suggestions please pass them on . Gary

I just returned from Home Depot , and they have a couple of options . Behr brand paint , has a '' 1-PART EPOXY " acrilic paint for garage floors. They also have two part Epoxy paint that is made by another company , they both have flakes to spread and or stuff to make it less slippery when wet. Has any one used either of these and if so how do they hold up ? I am wondering how tuff the coating is if I choose to use my floor jack with the steel wheels , or the dollies . I have used concrete porch paint in the past on a different house and durability and slickness when wet, is a deffinate concern. With all the rain here in Oregon , I don't want my wife to slip and fall on a slick floor when we drive in during winter . Once any of the coverings are down you have to live with it . Gary

Welcome back Mate, I dident realise that you were taking the Nile cruse either. I agree this is the way to go. Especially that beyound about 5oo yards of the river it is just sand. Isnt the valley of the kings and all the temples amaizing. We were there for 2 weeks . I only wish that I had studied about the place more before we went . Just so much to see and absorb. Were you able to make a camel auction in Cairo ? It's been a number of years since we went and I would like to go back. Insted of Turkey we extended in Italy for a week . Great that you had a good time . Gary

vagus , great post and good info . Gary

Enigma is right the mechanical pumps can fail and do this vary thing. Good call !

here is a web page that has pictures and compairs the different parts plus it is filled with great info. geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html Gary

If I understand what you are dealing with . On the early 240s '70 -71 they had a different transvers link and m bar . you need the later link that has a curve in it also when you install the R-200 and you must use it's M bar as well. Plus it must be turned around so the spring pearches are facing the opisite diection the old m bar was faceing . this allows for the longer '' punken '' to fit between the diff mount and the M bar and the drive shaft will be the proper length. The R-200 is larger than the 180 and is about 25 lbs heaver. If you see them side by side it is obvious . The bolts for the mounting of the M bar to the back of the R-200 ''punkin'' are larger also. As for the gearing look to the web page in my privious post and it tells what numbers mean what that are stamped on the ring gear.

here is a web page that has pictures and compairs the different parts plus it is filled with great info. geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html Gary If you tried the address and couldent through , try it again I had to many dots . also when through looking at the first page click on main and check the rest out. There is a page just on diffs but I cant find the address for now. sorry my old computer died and all the info is on the hard drive .

First off drain the oil and change filter. Do you know any one that has a spair set of SUs on a intake that you can use untill you get this sorted out? This way you can still drive the car with out damaging the engine further. Is this a car that is to be driven on the street , or track only ? The trouble with a radical cam is that they make there HP at high Rs and run like $^!# at street speeds. There is a member here that turns in the 12s running SU in his 240 with street tires , and it is his driver . To me that is quick . Tripples do LOOK cool though . I am running a cam that gets into its power band at 2K through 5500 , and I am vary happy with it so far . I am still playing around with the needles and ordered some from Nissan the other day. I have a ZX flat top with a little head work also . Post a thread asking for help with the webbers as the topic . there should be some one here that can help with them , I am sorry I have no experience with them . GARY

Dont come to me for the color . I painted my engine block Chrisler blue and the same for the air cleaner. I did this because the origional engine color was blue and I read that the Chrisler color was vary close . My Z is painted Screaming Yellow , a 2005 Ford Mustang color . The orange air cleaner just clashed badly so I shot it the same as the block. I am not a purest and I mearly went for the look . This is hi-temp rattle can paint . Gary

I strongly advise that you buy the book How to restore your Datsun Z-car by Wick Humble it is a Fisher Book . All this is covered and shown in the book . Gary

First of all pull the SM needles and use them for a dart board. Go with 54s or if you are running a 280 try 27s . The SM needles are too rich for any Z eingine under 3K stroker. The leaner needles will make more HP and better mileage and wont contaminate the oil in the pan with unburned fuel. The color tune is not lying to you , you are running vary RICH . If you want more informaion send me a PM with your email address and I will forward some info from some engine builders that race Zs that tried the SMs needles. The roller bearings can carbon up and stick the shaft , which can cause a problem if you are going into a corner at hispeed after a wide open throttle aproach down a stright. How many times have you had your car pop back through the carbs ? When this happens carbon particles blow out under pressure , hellow. Some thing to think about . :sick:

I am assuming that you have round top SUs not flat tops.

It does sound like a choke problem. being that you said you are unfalmilar with the car. with the engine off , pull the choke lever back and then shove it to the off position. Now go and reach under the carberaters and feel for the little hose that runs from the float bowl to the carb adjustment knob. Not see if the knob will snap up when you push on it. the same with both carbs. This '' knob '' is the mixture adjustment and is the bottom of the nozzle . If the nozzle is sticking down at all it is causing a vary rich mixture . The fix if this is happening could be a couple of things. One is if the little hose is stiff or brittle from the heat . this will cause the nozzle to bind and stick . Another thing is the nozzle could be covered with crud . If you remove the nozzle and clean it with 1500 grit wet dry sand paper using a little oil on the paper and burnishing the nozzle from in to end ,NOT AROUND THE CYLINDER , then coat it with some NEVER SEIZE and reinstall it . If you look you will see that there is a small linkage connecting the nozzle to the upper part of the carb. you can carefully remove the tiny cotter pin and the nozzle will drop down. Remove the hose first and catch the fuel that runs out , a rag will do. Do the cleanning and replace it. If when you first check the nozzle and find it sticking and the hose is not stiff , try and put a little twist in the hose . Some times this will do it. Gary

I don't but I just did all of mine. What is your question ? Gary :classic:

I just learned recently that the three screw has alignment ''pins'' on top of the body that align the dome the 4 screw does not . I have a extra set of each . I am assuming because of the ability to adjust the alignment as nucubsman stated . One more thing it is ablolutly impairative NOT to mix up the domes from one carb to another , they were fitted at the factory . This is mostly for the four screw carbs. Over the years there has been passed around again and again that certain intakes will produce more HP " the 10 hp thing " . I have yet to see any actual numbers that came from a dyno testing or any other measureing device. I did know about the locating pins on the 3 screws but not the fact that they were non adjustable. I have extra sets of SUs of each . And am running 4 screws on my ZX flattop engine. Another thing of the plastic pins , be careful with carb cleaners , some will damage the pins or remove them altogether , if the needle starts touching he nozzle it will wear it to a ovel shape . Then you wont be able to adjust the mixture properly . Gary

Just start the engine and run your bare hand over the wires and plugs and all the ignition . Stay away from the fan . If you have a bad wire you will find it. Or you can open the hood in the dark and many times you will see the leaking wire if it is bad enough. some times a light mist of water will show a wire that is breaking down like this also . If it was moisture inside the cap of the dist the engine wouldent run . I doubt vary much that this is the sourse . Even if the plug wires are new , check them any way . They are just a string coated with carbon covered by a insulater .

aside from hi-jacking the therad. The thread is about the air PUMP . Not a air conditioner pump . No the regular air cleaner will not clear . The down side of the seperate filters is not running the tuned volicity stacks that are mounted on the factory air cleaner . You will loose a little power . Gary

What air compresser ? What is it used for inflating tommahawks tires ? Pardon me I just looked at the picture and saw he air condition compresser. Looks like some one cut away most of the stock filter box .

I mearly inserted a cork from the inside. Ace hardware sells rubber or cork in various sizes . Either will work equally well. If you think about it cork has been used for valve cover gaskets for over 50 years . Gary

Aside from the fact that the inline 6 and the V-8 are close to the same weight . Remember the v-8 sits farther back in the engine bay , this makes the car almost a mid engine car. If you are looking for HP , you cannot compair the L-6 engine to a good hot v-8 . As with the 6 or 8 HP costs money and it all depends on how fast you want to SPEND . Witch ever you decide , build the car for your self not others.

The factory gage and sender are not that accurate , they are really just an indicater of oil pressure . I bought a cheep mechanical oil pressure gage for like $12.00 and installed it just so I could varify zero pressure reading I was getting from factory origional gage. I am running 12psi at 700 RPM and 50 at 2K and above . I am going to replace the sender and go from there. I dont want to run the aftermarket gage . I have peace of mind now though. The same holds true with the temp gage , with it , check the coolent temp with a candy thermometer to determine what the actual temp is when the gage is showing mid range or what ever . Gary

I have been told that the 240 front fenders are still being made , in Korea . They were suposedly thinner that the OEM and the quality not as good , but available. I don't know if they are the ones offered by Nissan or after market .