beandip

Chad, there are some parts on the ZX that you will not have any trouble selling. The Dist. for one. The members with 240s or 260 can use the electronic Dist on there cars. I believe the rear disk brakes are another sot after part. Actually the engine if it is in good condition and the 5 speed tranny as well. The zx block has flat top pistons and the head has value. Welcome to the club and congrats on the '75. Gary

Welcome to the club. Fantastic save on the sheet metal. You have done some stellar work and the color is spot on as well. The whole Z , judging from the underside as well as the condition of the shinny side is vary good. Enjoy the ride. Gary

Yes , many times , at this time of year when the temp is cool it will come off as you has found. The majority of the time it chips off in stamp sized chunks. Dry Ice applied first making it brittle helps greatly. Over the past years, this has all been discussed several times. Gary

[quote Are the pumps at blackdragon of good quality? And no negatives to going to a turbo pump? There are no negatives that I am aware of. I have a ZX engine in my 240 and this engine has about 60K since the build and I haven't had any trouble . I haven't heard of any from anyone. I have right at 25 psi at idle and about 50psi while driving. I am running 10w30. They have a pressure relief valve so the pressure wont go over 70 psi . Even when the engine is cold. I don't know about after market pumps . I have heard that it is common, that the pumps that are rebuilt and sold as turbo pumps are standard pumps. Visually The difference is the amount of teeth on the gear. I went with Nissan.

Bart, welcome to the club. What year 240 Z is she? Motorsport has books that might have what you need. How to Restore your Datsun , this is a great one . Good information and instructions as well as pictures. zcarparts.com thezstore.com Another is BlackDragonAuto.com Another source for hard to find parts Zedd Findings datsunzparts.com This web site you found here is the greatest source of knowledge on line. as was stated do a search and if you cannot find what you need , just ask. All the best. Gary

If this is all the trouble, you have dodged a bullet. When you buy the new pump you might consider a turbo pump. They put out a little more volume.

Jack, if you look at the date of the thread, you will see that this is from 2006. Most likely the problem is resolved.

007, just a tip. When discussing firing order ALWAYS #1 is the one at the front of the engine. On a inline Z engine. Now you know the firing order , was given to you earlier. Remove the spark plug from #1 . remove the coil wire , the large one, from the coil. put your finger over the spark plug hole and have some one turn the engine over. When the piston comes up on the compression stroke air will be felt coming out of the plug hole. When the piston is at the top of its stroke on the compression stroke , THEN the first mark on the pulley should match the pointer. If you align the pointer to the mark on the pulley on any of the other 3 strokes the timing will not be correct and the engine will be out of time. Running a engine out of time can and will damage it. So close doesnt count. You will find it easier if you remove all the plugs and have someone just ''tap'' the starter a little at a time so you can feel when the piston is coming up on the compression stroke. If you look in the plug hole with a light you can see the top of the piston. With the car in gear you can shove the car a little to have the piston right at the top of the stroke and stop. Look then at the pointer and the timing mark. They will be aligned on the compression stroke. Now pull the cap off the dist and see where the rotor is pointing . It should be pointing to where #1 wire connects to the cap . You have either miss wired the cap with the wires . Or set the dist in place with the rotor facing the wrong direction . With the engine timed 180* out the engine will not run only backfire.

I am afraid that just because the pump is still running , it isn't a for sure that it is still working. As Jim said you can try and blow air back through the line and see if it might clear some of the crud that may be clogging a filter or screen. It is not a fix but might get you home. Since this is a daily driver and if there has been no earlier problems along this line, and the case that the filter is empty I would say a new or newer pump is going to be the cure. Now I hope you are not just out of gas. Are you sure the fuel gage is correct? this has happened before. Gary

Be vary careful using a heat gun on flammable liquid. It could easily turn into a blow torch. Why are you striping off all the paint?

First off welcome to the club. I think you are going to find that you are now dealing with a different bread of cat from before. Depending on your intentions with the Z . I recommend changing form the Weber down draught carbs. I am running a ZX 280 engine with SUs, in my 240, and she is a strong runner. If you are looking for performance you might look to triples or after market injection. Plus head work and Cam. these cars with independent rear suspension don't use traction bars , but you can add heavy duty anti sway bars and suspension components. If you don't care about comfort or street-ability , because it will suffer. Zs are known for there cornering ability mainly, not zero to 100 racers. Although because of the lack of weight they will perform well with relatively little horse power. 200 HP is high HP in a Z. Gary

you said the valves were set to tight? What were they set at? the dip stick on the top of the carbs is to control the rise and fall of the vacuum piston , which controls the mixture of fuel to air. Because this part is not operating properly. Start there and remedy this problem. The information given so far is vary sketchy and not of much help. the Air Pump has no effect on the running of the engine pro or con. Unless you know what you are doing , do not attempt to adjust the valves. If the front carb is damaged this will account for the first three cylinders not working properly. I don't understand ''the engine is louder than normal" ? are you speaking of clattering of the valves , crank shaft , exhaust ? Since you know that one carb is damaged , this is a starting point. If you start getting into several things first you will not have a clue which direction to look. You said you tried a electric pump. What pressure did this pump put out? if over 5psi then this will overwhelm the shut offs in the carbs and flood the engine. When you pulled the plug wires off do you get any spark from the wire when grounded? Pulling the plug wire off a cylinder that is not receiving any incoming air mixture will till you nothing. Gary

kurt, I bought my pans from Zedd Findings and you will find that they sell the best ones . My opinion. It is recommended to NOT cut the old metal out before the new one is in hand. Much depends on how bad the old pan is rotted. Are you trying to save the old Z or just the parts you are removing? I used a saws all on my floors as well , to remove the old floor. As to your roof question . Nissan has the seams at the top of the wind shield post on either side and near the top corners of the hatch. I would take the windshield posts with the top and farther down the body in the rear. This way the re-installer will have more latitude in doing the installation. If you are just going to junk the body after removing the floor . Cut the sheet metal up the firewall end about 6'' up from the floor and the same for the trans tunnel . In the rear , remove the metal up the back as much as you can. On the rocker just go as far up as you can. This will allow the person installing the floor more to work with. Be sure to save the seat supports. I have pictures of my Z if you would like to see them. send me a PM with your email address. Gary

Justin, to answer your Question on coating the inside of the tail lights. White paint seems to give the brightest result. Chrome paint or similar colors give a gray tone , although bright the white is brighter. Same for the turn signals in front. Either flat or gloss . I got this from EScanlon . I tried the chrome first and repainted white. Painted all over the inside of the lights , not just the reflectors. If my reflectors were bright and untarnished I masked them off . With all the surrounding surfaces painted white, it reflects more light out the lens. I used this same method on the dash instruments as well. Gary

She has a surprised look on her face ! Do you suppose she is sitting on the armrest?

Nissan has the base you need. What year Z are we talking about here? The ZX dist only requires two wires . I have installed a few of the ZX dest., in the past on early 240s including my own '73 and the stock tach has always continued to work just fine . If it was working before.

I recommend hybrids I think that there are several guys there running quads.

Going on 4 years ago , EScanlon showed me how to fill the holes that were left from the old rub strips along the fenders. It is simple and it took only about 30 min. tops to do both sides of the Z. I found a small crack in the factory leading where the roof was attached at the windshield and used the same method to do that repair. Be sure to clean the repair well when done. I used solid core solder with a liquid acid flux that I use for stained glass. The sheet metal is so thin that using a soldering iron is all that is needed. After this time if I were going to have a problem I think it would have happened by now. Gary

I hope this info isn't too late. There is a thrust washer inside the booster that the push rod rides , the rod then goes into the back of the master. DO NOT pull the rod out of the booster. If you do the thrust washer will drop out to the side. When later you then press on the brake pedal it will go all the way to the floor.

The dampeners work to slow the rise of the vacuum piston. This retarding of the rise, causes a RICHER mixture NOT leaner , as some think. The thinner the oil the faster the rise and the leaner off idle, the mixture is. This can cause a stumble that feels like ignition faltering. This is only effected at low rpm and off idle. After the engine is up to speed the rise is no longer an issue. You can run them with no oil if you are racing and keeping the engine speed up in the power band. I use 20w oil winter and summer , although our winters here in Oregon are not severe. To see if your dampener pistons are rising at the same rate you need to view them with the engine running, a dyno is a great help with this. Do not ever swap the parts from one carb to another. Especially on 3 screw SUs . The parts have been matched at Nissan at assembly. Since 3 screw carbs have nonadjustable nozzles , the position of the vacuum piston/needle is critical . The 4 screw carbs have an adjustable nozzle holder. Gary

The small fuel line that runs up from the inner finder to a small divert er then one line runs to the back of the air box. This the fresh air supply to the gas tank. Drawing clean air from the air box. The small lines running from the tops of the SUs are vent lines . They allow the rise and fall of the fuel level and capture any fumes and spillage in the event of a shut off failure. The large hose coming from the valve cover , discharges gases and fumes into the air box so the engine can burn them . Adding just a little filter to the valve cover may vary well cause fumes in the cabin of the Z. There is a opening at the bottom area of the air box that is used if you are running a air pump, it is about a 1'' size. If you don't have a air pump you should plug this opening. I used a rubber cork from, the inside, Ace Hardware. Now there is a large hose connected to the intake manifold but it runs from the crankcase vent. This has a PVC valve at the manifold end and it must be retained. This is a one way valve that allows any build up of pressure to escape and be burned by the engine. Check and clean this valve from time to time. If it becomes clogged of stuck open , it could cause a lean issue. Blocked and it will cause the engine to acculmulate sludge. I hope this is of help. The stock air box on a mostly stock engine will build more power than the individual filters. E-2910 is the part number for the K&N filter that fits the air boxes. Gary :knockedou

The Your Nissan Dealer is likely to have the parts.

The distributor is right but the module is wrong. The module is for a later ZX like a '82 or 3. It has the later module that requires input from the computer , that you don't have . The 12 80 is a stand alone module. all the dist. from '79--'83 will work , its just the modules that are different. As was said before , the lower half of the dist shaft is missing on the eBay part. Gary