kully 560

the only thing in my favor after the rebuild in the late 90s that I have not put 3000 miles on the motor . it comes out in nice weather 1-2 times a month for a 30-40 mile drive only. It is also keep it in a heated garage .so I guess can throw a torque wrench on it and see where it is, if it does not move at 60lbs I will leave it alone. I guess on an old motor and left out side in the weather I would think twice about ,I agree with you on that. I did not know nissan recommends a cylinder head bolt torque after a valve adjustment. this could be a can of worms as I don't think anybody does it .

never did I retorque head bolt after a valve adjustment. I guess tomorrow when the motor cools down I will check the head , intake and header bolts just because it gives me a piece of mind and also would like to see if anything has change.

I also read that 60lbs max?

heu siteunseen , I read in the z car guide .com that after head install the head need to be retorqued 600-1000 miles ans every 12,000 miles for all s30 cars? I rebuilt my motor back in the late 90s and never check the head bolts after ,I did not think I had to but this guide says different!! just checking with everybody what the deal is. thanks

does anybody retorque there cylinder head bolt after a valve adjustment?

I purchased a set of these about 6 weeks ago, it took me 3 tries to set the floats correctly . the car never ran so good, as he states in the instructions to measure up 9/16" and that is the correct setting. my floats were 7/16" up and always had hard starting when it sat for a while, the car runs perfect now. I did the mm measurement also and it was a pita to do blowing in the fuel line while lifting up the float and taking a measurement. it was never right no matter how much I kept playing with the floats . this tool is a must!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! great job randy

check the fuel filter, its a cheap change if the car has been sitting for a long time , might not be getting enough fuel through it. check fuel pump , is it mechanical or been change over to electric? start with the basics make sure you are getting enough fuel first, set carbs to 2-1/2 turns down, see if it starts and runs. if still hard starting your floats might be set to high leaving not enough fuel in the carb bowls.

the mixture is off ! floats need to be set or checked , start with the mixture screws turned down 2 1/2 turns and then balance with a air flow meter. you can try leaning the back carb with turning the mixture screw up but you will still need a air flow meter to balance. a member here sells the float- sync for the carbs on ebay which I bought and is the best tool for the float adjustment I have ever used . set the floats first then the mixture and last balance . there is also a color tune for setting the mixture also which you can buy online.

you do not need the zx module with a msd 6al unit that just creates 2 different signals . wire the zx dissy direct from the 6al unit from the ford plug that comes with the msd to the 2 wires inside the dissy . I am not home,but look up the correct way to splice the color wire in order. I made a small metal plate to blank off the hole on the side of the zx dissy when I removed the nissan module. I could never get my tach working with the tach adaptor. I tried resistors and adaptors also . my z is a early 74 260 car and I mounted a small tack in the car. maybe one day I will looked into that again.

thanks for the info I will order the nissan brand!!

that is great info , so the nissan seals are better than timken and national seals ? I do not care about price of the parts , I just want to do this once as you know what I mean . haha

hello all z members !! just 1 question , my rear main seal is weeping and in need of replacement. is nissan the best seal to buy or is there a better brand to use thanks

thanks I ordered both anyway, I got 2 for the price of 1 . its great to know I only need the electronic flasher.

thanks mike for the info! I believe the only change for the blinkers is a electronic flasher for the turn signals and the hazards , that is what I am going to try .

thanks mike it would help if you can post the spread sheet . it is going to be a big pain for me to remove the gauges as I installed the dash cover 30 years ago. and now the gauge would have to be removed from the rear like the tach and speedo. the other small three can come out from under them or through the glove box. I am going to look if I can find the old bulbs so I can measure the length and compare them to the led length for fitment. for some reason super bright and the auto parts stores call for wedge style bulbs for my early 260z . I seem to remember the style was a metal round base like a small 1157 bulb.

thanks mike , that ba9s is for the dash guage correct? can they be dimmed , and do you know if these are the brightest we can use ? I am looking at the 7000k style thanks

thanks,I am looking to do all the outside lamps right now. I ordered the electronic flashers yesterday, and I have been looking at the super bright web sight and see that some led bulbs can be ordered with a higher lumens. but if the ones they suggest is brighter than the stock bulbs that might be fine also . I did see sylvania zevo leds also.

anybody know who sells the best led bulbs for a 1974 260z? and which ones to buy . I saw on the super bright site that they sell different lumens as far as the brightness. should I go with there recommended ones or the brighter ones. thanks

count me in!!

my 74 I ran the fuel pump wire through the cabin on the passenger side and I mounted the switch on the riser wall behind the passenger seat next to the corner .the instructions say to mount next to 2 body panels . I believe that's is for a stronger attachment with less shock for sensitive tripping.

I am in for a set of 260z

I am also interested in a set for the early 260z also . also if you want to try

I use rotella t4 10w -30w oil, it is a diesel engine oil but according to rotella it can also be use in gas engines . it also has a higher zinc content than a lot of other oils on the market at a decent price tag!! [tsc store sells it]

if anybody is interested I removed the 90 degree baldwin filter that was 15 micron and installed a purolator 10 micron straight through filter and my pressure went to 3.5psi. I did not check if I could raise the pressure higher with my regulator I was happy with the 3.5psi. my l28 seem to run better with the higher pressure going from 2.7 psi with the airtex and now with the carter the psi is 3.5psi .is seems like less throttle to move the car now . hope this review help anybody interested in a quiet pump with good pressure .

I know all about it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! at my age I have to think twice