kully 560

that looks nice also thanks

you are right ! I will check lowes this week and pick one up . rechargeable never seen one , thanks siteunseen will look this week .

yes a $ 20.00 fire extinguisher is something I should be carrying anyway . this car is like my left nut, I bought in 1979 and do not want to loose it now!!

I had a feeling mark you would chime in !! I read some were that su carbs like 2-2.5 at the float bowl but I do not remember where I saw it years ago. am I at the upper limit do you think?

I installed the new 240 fuel rail this week . now at the start of the fuel rail my fuel pressure is 3.9 psi . so I checked at the rear carb and the fuel pressure is 3.6 psi . is the fuel pressure to high for the 4 bold carbs? thanks

well I just finished installing the recondition 240 fuel rail and removed the 260 one with the asbestos . I am not going to install a fuel pressure regulator as with the carter p60430 pump the fuel pressure is at 3.95 psi with the gauge installed at the start of the new fuel rail. I just ran a vacuum line from the balance tube to the carbon canister to solve that problem.

well Zed Head, when I spoke to holley tech yesterday I was told it is a different regulator! the 12-804 is a dead head type like in STEVESJ diagram #1. they do not make a 1-4 psi bypass regulator . STEVESJ diagram # 3 is the way it should be setup when a z car has a return fuel line. [note Holley bypass regulator] what the hell is the difference between the bypass and the dead head style I do not know. Holley tech recommends not using the dead head on the return line only bypass style. so right now I am just improving the looks of the engine bay with a nice coated fuel rail and not being covered in asbestos like my 260 rail . so when the new rail gets installed I will put the pressure gauge on the supply line with a tee and take a reading at different rpms and see if it changes. if it stays steady at around 3- 3.5 lbs then there is no need for the regulator. if it does not, then I would like to have the ability to dial in a perfect pressure setting. now in this day and age we can do that on a 45-50 year old system. does it matter on a performance aspect probably not . but being stuck home with the covid and crap all around I need projects to keep from going out of my mind . this helps and the z will like !!

thanks captain, I did check with holley yesterday and they do not make a low pressure bypass regulator. so with a quick look yesterday on the net I did come up with the aeromotive style that is a low pressure regulator. but I guess I will research that after I install the new fuel rail and check the pressure, it sure would be nice If I do not need it. I am not really sure why the holley 12-804 would not work on the return line unless it is a safety thing. I guess if it gets stuck closed the bypass style will still pass fuel .

no I do understand what you were saying. I will take a pressure reading on the supply line and see where the psi is at after I install the 240z rail. if I do need a regulator I will probably use the bypass style on the return line and have the option to dial in. when I installed the new pump I ran a larger wire back there for the voltage drop so the pump will not be starving for power. the carter pump is 2-6 psi and I would like to have the pressure at 3-3.5 psi .my idea is to clean up the engine bay and get rid of the asbestos covered lines from the 260 fuel rail. the 240 fuel rail does not have the extra line for the vapor canister so I will need to install a vacuum hose from the balance tube to the evap canister. I would love to get rid of the canister for looks but is seems more trouble than what is worth .I read some place maybe over at hybrid z that a person installed a much smaller geo metro canister with great results as it is an updated unit. I will have to look into that down the road some time.

yes I saw the vapor line that runs from the balance tube to the canister. I forgot about that so I guess I will have to keep the canister. what I have been reading on the net it seems like its more trouble to remove it and better to leave it? the engine bay would look a lot better with out it !

what is the vapor line IIrc. my 260z line is insulated and the reason I am changing it it for the nice look .

I am was using the fuel rail from my 260 setup with the return line . I just purchased a refab 240z fuel rail in mint condition and would like to know what is the best way if I needed a pressure regulator or not . my fuel pump is the carter p60430 rated 2-6 psi. also I check and I though it was a dead head style but wanted to be sure

I will have to check with holley what the regulator is. I did not know the early 260z had a restriction orifice ? do you know where it is located?

I pick up a holley fuel pressure regulator 12-804 and was wondering where to install it, is it better on the supply line or the return line for 4 bolt su carbs. I installed it originally on the supply line but have been reading it might be better on the return line as it might help in cooling the fuel , does it really matter ? thanks

hi jim ,are these rail still for sale ? thanks kully560

hi marty is this still for sale? and is it chrome plated or chrome painted? thanks

ray who use to worked at msa years ago told me about the double stacked spaces for more power , but I never did try that out .

just check the posts it is a carter p60430

I am using a carter pump do not remember the model #. but is in the post by me as I installed it last year. I can tell you it is as quiet as a mouse. the most pressure I can get out of it is 3.47 lbs with a pressure regulator and the 3.47lbs is more than enough for the su carbs.

I am running and have been running a square port header that is jet hot coated on a n47 round port head for years . I did use a gasket I purchased from msa at the time,and I believe it might have been the oem brand. no problems at all with that set up but you will have a problem if you use a squared port head on a round port header !

that might be a good option ,mine are 23 years old and I would like to have a spare also . so with out pulling mine off to check the id , does anybody know the id of the hose ? thanks

I decided to leave well enough alone as from reading the consensus from ever body. but I did retorque my header bolts and intake today as is seems some of the header bolts were a little loose. I also decided to remove the heat shield and paint it with vht aluminum 550 degree paint , It needed it and looks a lot better . thanks for the support from every body great forum!!!!!!!

well you make a point , but why would datsun recommended a cylinder head retorque after a valve adjustment. do you think the dealers back then pulled the head? this is a 2 sided coin ? I guess if I do not remove the bolt and retorque to 60 lbs and nothing happens then nothing gained nothing lost make sense. I would just like to see why they recommended this at every valve adjustment , were they expecting things to get loose?

hi again siteunseen , I was not thinking about removing the bolts, I was just going retorque them . do you think I should remove them and anti-seize ? [I do not want to brake the seal even 1 bolt at a time] and thanks for the bolt sequence !!!

will do , that is a good plan