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The only change I would make to the excellent info above would be to use Marvel Mystery Oil. It contains mineral oil and a solvent that dissolves anything sticky or gummy.

I would think the motor oil you're using squirted down the spark plugs holes would be good and take the valve cover off add soak the cam and valve train. Then turn it slowly clockwise from the the front and notice any hang ups or anything but smoothe rotation over and over. Leave the plugs out and use the starter but don't crank too long, short burst as to not burn the starter up. You will need a battery charger and don't rush the process, feel the starter and if it gets too hot to touch call it a day. The coolant should be all the way up to the top of the radiator fill hole. Let it run until you see the coolant flowing. I would add some water to your coolant, it looks to be straight antifreeze. That's not bad but 50/50 is what most people do.

I'm happy with how the dove tails turned out so I'll go ahead and have a batch made up if anyone needs them for a restoration. Just sourcing the right JIS screws.

It is buy it now for $40k. I told him to emphasize that the original mileage is 51k and to add some pics of his documentation... pics of the various VIN plates and VIN on the firewall, and pics of the engine number on the block and the E31 on the head. I see he has added the documentation and the engine compartment tag already. I know the market is a lot softer now for these than it was, but I think it will sell for the $40k.

Better question is what is that carb for... Sorry, no love for those with me.

The early 240Z had handed dove tails for the doors, a left and right sided fitting were required. Part numbers R 80530-E4101 and L 80531-E4101. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/body-240z/body-side-trim-side-window/62 On later cars there were replaced with a symmetrical part that fit on either side. 80530-N3400 Biggest problems with the early ones were the tabs where the screws went through breaking off. Replacement factory parts haven't been available for years. Fortunately I have a set of unbroken originals which we modelled up and reproduced in aluminum. We added an extra 1mm around the screw holes to prevent the cracking and breaking. Just picked up the first samples to fit check and they work just like the originals. The original one is on the right, you can see the slight increase in thickness around the screw holes on the left one. Also modelled up and replicated the original plastic grease reservoir for the steering rack. I'll post details in a separate thread.

Triple SU carbs...I've never seen that. That car must really scoot! Sorry you "might" have to let it go. I don't know your situation, but everyone who has had a 240Z always says...."Man, I wish I had kept that car." So, again, I'm sorry you could lose her. She is very, very nice! I found mine on BaT. I can't imaging letting go of her...

I noticed my OE muffler had a leak so decided to tackle replacing it. Only thing I could find that was near OE was a Bosal 280-520. this has a flange that goes from the Catalytic back to the muffler tip. Cheap at only about 50$ with various discounts. 1st thing I noted after pulling the OE was the pipe from the flange back was not as long as the OE before making the bend down the diff. It was about 4" too short. I am guessing that the CAT converter on my CA car maybe short than a standard resonator. Since I don't have a resonator to compare its only a guess. Anyway bought some pipe and various fittings thinking I would fabricate a joiner and use U clamps to connect it all up. After sleeping on it, and think how hokey a bunch of U clamp would look I decide welding was the answer. Now welding is something I have not touched since back in HS shop class back in the 70's and that was arc and gas, but figured it would be fun to try. Got a cheap 170amp HF mig and some gear to go with it, did not have enough gas to try the shielding gas so used the flux wire. Tried a few beads on the scrap pipe I had left over after cutting out the needed joining piece. Wow this is not easy, no granted I prob had everything working against me, cheap welder, flux wire, thin gauge steel , running a bead around a radious, but after a while I was at least getting consistent arcs and wire feed. I unplugged the ECU and put the pieces back on the car, using the big welding magnets to hold in place I managed to get a few tacks in place so I could remove and finish weld. I ringed it with small tack welds and then tried my best to bead it. I prob ground off 90% of my work and would re do until it looked like I had managed a solid unit. I pressure checked it with some soapy water, fixed a few leaks, painted the whole area with some high temp paint and reinstalled. The fitment with the 4.5" added was perfect, too bad I had to add that extension. Exhaust was quieter than before (I would hope all this was done for a purpose) and I know the exhaust gasses are now all coming out of the tail pipe and not from the front of the muffler like before. I clearly need to practice a LOT with the welder but it was fun and a nice learning experience. I cant recommend the BOSAL 280-520 only because I don't know for sure it would fit on a NON CA car, if it did then I would say its a great value. As is its still a good value if you have some welding ability.