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will be doing some more test (I love the test stand for this reason). the plan is to find a correct sensor for a 300zxt and check for fitment to a L28et block, then scope it while running in the engine, compare to the doughnut style I am currently using that does not set the code. See how they compare. I would like to actually see the ign timing get retarded by a simulated knock, I tried using a timing light and lightly tapping the block next to the sensor, could not see any change in timing, but that was at idle, and I have no idea of the strategy the ecu uses. I considered a band pass filter, as seen on another site, think it was hybrid Z, to narrow the freq response to about 6-7khz (the presumed freq created by pinging). Not sure exactly how that would work out, I presume I would just need to make sure I use a terminating resistor to avoid setting a short/open code. Before going down that route it may make sense to just abandon the idea of using the ECU for knock sensing and go with a stand alone knock sense control. anyway just more reason to delay the engine install 🙂 I took a trip recently (800 mile round) it burned about 1/2 quart of oil and I got 27 mpg (mostly AC off) going about 65 most of the time on non ethanol. Not bad for a 50 year old car... Needless to say the car ran perfectly and I did get a few chances to test the speed limits out on the turnpike (going the speed limit is insane there, you will get run over). The car loves to run over 80 mph.

So I model up the cams and rocker arm. Not having access to any head means I’ve had to make quite a few guesses to angles and position of the rocker arm relative to the cam center line etc. It does seem though when I do the 1.55mm parallel move the wipe pattern always moves forward towards the valve no matter where I move things within a sensible range. I guess this makes sense as the valve and pivot move away at an angle. If I go from 0.175”(4.45mm)-0.160”(4.064mm) lash pad it recenters, if I go down to 3.7mm then it moves closer to the pivot. Anyway looks like the available 0.160” pads from MSA should work. Fingers crossed

Yesterday I swapped out the EPS pump on the C30. remove reservoir transfer to rebuilt pump replaced mount brackets in place Problem is, there are more than one style power supply fitting, it turns out. I didn't think to even check that. All the online vendors that sell terminal/connecotr kits for these pumps (commonly used for EPS conversions) sell the Type 1 set, which is what is on my (2012) car already, not what's on the older remote reservoir pumps. So, today I rebuilt my original pump & reinstalled that. Remove pump no bearing remnants in this one cut off lower housing back together with new lower bearing back in, take 2. All good now, pump works, no noises

I think they forgot to drop in the small block! 😉

Fat (male) end to the back, skinny (female) end forward:

My little eye spies the wrong clutch master cylinder. It's a Nabco, but it's the new style. You guys are all gonna regret me seeing an early car with my own two eyes. Hahaha!! You need one of these. Maybe not quite as crusty, but this style:

As standard equipment on the S30-series Z range, FS5C71-A was usually paired with 3.9:1 ratio R180 in all markets except USA & Canada (including Japan). It was also paired with 4.44:1 ratio R192 LSD on Japanese market PS30 Fairlady Z432 and PS30-SB Fairlady Z432-R.

Cant angle is 12 degrees, as stated in various Nissan technical publications (none of which I seem to have to hand at this moment...).

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