Leaderboard

Looking for one to do my valve steam seals. I'm located in Murrieta, CA. Looking to buy, rent, or borrow. Thanks!

No, I'll just take it for a high speed run and see how it feels, Whitehead has a set of T3 T/C rods on the shelf that we will install next week while it is on the alignment rack

I would now disconnect the connections from the new fuel pump, place a good battery in the back and hard wire directly to the fuel pump. Then go for a drive. Eliminate any ECU or AFM input. This way you can eliminate any obstruction issues. If it continues, you know there is obstruction some where.

I cleaned up the area where the front suspension support attaches to. After that, I hit it with the touch-up paint. I got the front suspension support and the other front suspension components back from the powdercoater. The parts look great. Can't wait to install these components along with the new Energy suspension rubber. pics below

definitely looks like low gas output welds. perhaps you have some particulate and metal build up from previous welds stuck in the mig nozzle gas ports. you can tell there is some gas flow, because the surface of each weld "bulb" does not have cratering or pitting from being completely unshielded. If you had no gas whatsoever, it would look like burnt popcorn as zinc and rubber make their way to the surface and pop out of the molten metal. I wouldn't chalk it up to skill at all going by what I see. I've made similar welds on non structural items only to realize during cleanup time that the MIG cart's wheel was sitting on the gas hose. fun day, that was.

No apology needed for complaining about the weather. It all averages out. Think of me next January when you're turning up the thermostat and throwing another log in the fireplace to keep warm. It'll be 75º here and I'll be sitting in the back yard next to the pool wearing a t-shirt and shorts. Dennis

How is snapping TC tension rods a non-issue with Poly? Plot the curve of the Lower control arm with a suspension program you'll see why Poly has a problem. The lower control arm does not travel straight up and down. It follows an Arc. That cause bind with Poly bushings. Rubber and Monoballs do not. Polly also has issues with Cold flow and "Stiction" . Poly is not a good material for rotating assembles. Never has been and never will be. Delrin liners or Teflon liners are far superior, but they can only be used in suspension arms that travel in a straight line, such as a double A-Arm setup. With suspension arms that travel in an arc you should be using Monoballs or rubber. You may not " feel " or " recognise" the bind, but it's there and is detrimental to handling. Sources. Herb Adams, Paul Van Valkenburgh, Fred Puhn and a host of other Chassis engineers.

Having a blast, are you going to the track day at Mosport next week? I'll be there, still trying to tweak the alignment. I have been going to cruise nights and 2 cars shows per weekend. Had one of those show plates made up at a tuner show on the weekend, Took the car to an alignment shop just to get an idea where everything was sitting after all that surgery, Front Left Right Difference Caster -1.8* -2.9* -1.1* Camber -0.8* -1.0* -0.2* Toe 0.0 0.0 0.0 Rear Left Right Difference Camber -1.0* -1.1* -0.1* Toe -0.40* -0.69* -0.29* So I have to figure out what to do about the caster, need to study up on it. Had it appraised and sent all the stuff to the classic car insurance and only then realized I had never put road insurance on it, just some fire/theft. 1000 kms of with no coverage, Opps