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I can sense an Xmas gift to me from me ... !!!

I looked in the How To Rebuild book and can't find any sign that there's a difference in the L24 and L28 blocks besides bore. He doesn't mention the different timing chain guides either. Nissan probably did some minor mold clean up when they went to the N42 L28 block but if zcarnut can use the L28 piece on his L24 blocks, the bolt holes must be the same. It's probably a like-for-like piece, just so people get the same as what they're replacing. I've never seen anyone notice that before though. A new mystery. p.s. I was joking on the Kameari kit. Unless you're planning for 13,000 RPM.

This! You can reuse the plastic lock. There new socket may be a little small, but you can use tape or even better shrink tubing if you can something that will fit around the new socket. Don't forget to solder on the ground wire before shrink tubing.

When I was messing with my sockets a couple days ago, one of them was so rusty that I felt I couldn't do an adequate job cleaning it up while it was all assembled, so I started pushing and pulling the socket apart. I think I was even able to push the metal tube portion up out of the plastic holder. Point is, I think you might be able to reuse your original plastic housing portion and just replace the metal interior section with a new one. That might be another option if we can't find a suitable mechanical replacement? Same fit into the tail lamp housing as before, but new metal where the bulb inserts?

We had a pretty good Z car turnout for Caffeine & Octane today. There were 15 S30s and S130s in the main group, and there were another couple of early Z cars scattered around. I would say there was easily over 1000 cars there. Joe Travis, Pat Carr, and Pete Thomas from here all brought their cars out. You can find the rest of the photos here: https://stevescartography.wordpress.com/2015/08/02/caffeine-octane-august-2015-edition-175-photos/

Hello. Hope someone could help me out. After pulling the needle on the speedo, and put back together it now shows wrong speed. I know where I went wrong. I pulled the needle when it rested on the needle-stop pin and put back there... Should have pulled it when it rested freely and put pack in the same position.. Is there any way I can fix this myself?

I also don't think there would be a problem. Stich weld if necessary. And as suggested... Don't clamp your ground wire onto the rotating portion. Clamp the ground onto the same side of the bearings the weld will be located so the welding current doesn't have to go through the balls. It's never good to send welding current through the balls.

My current set up on a 3.0L Rebello Stroker