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Manifold is all welded up and sanded... Just the polishing left now! Sent from my iPizzle ringy dingy device....

Had fun with my good buddy Dr240z refining the tuning of his triple webers. The last time we set them we used a fuel level of 25mm below the cover-body margin (as per Keith Frank's recommendation). It turns out this is way too high and caused the cruise to be too rich... something that could not be tuned out. Idle and WOT were easy to set however. This time we set the fuel level to 29mm and used a new rig to do this as precise but much faster than the pipette method or the caliper method. It turns out that a column of water 8' to 9' high "head" gives a pressure of 3.5 to 4 psi at the base (simulating that of the fuel pump on a Z.) so we strung a funnel and hose near the garage ceiling and ran this into a carb lid on the floor. The carb lid sat on a clear plastic tub with water levels from the top scratched into it for reference. the top of the tub represented the top of the carb body. By filling the system with water, it flowed through the needle valve at ~ 4psi. When the flow stopped, we measured the fuel level and bent the float tabs as required to get 29mm. Once all 3 carb lids were the same, we continued tuning and finally dialed in the carbs to a powerful yet non-stinking/non-fume delight at idle, cruise, and WOT. FYI: Gasoline would have been more accurate but water worked and was safer. FYI the S.G. of gas is ~0.70 so a float would sink lower in it. 9' Head 29mm fuel level The Doctor This post has been promoted to an article

Fantastic idea. Whenever I have set float levels, I have never been absolutely sure that they were right. Love the simplicity of it. Red Green would be proud.

That's a great way to do that. Simple and precise

Mounted my original Fairlady grille.

I am finding all of these suggestion far too practical, serious, and sensible. My suggestion is a flux capacitor, time circuit, lightning rod or a Mr. fusion; which ever seems like more fun to you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Greetings all - When the battery needed replacing on my '73, I installed a cutoff switch on the firewall, got a new battery cable made up and bought a battery with the the hot contact out from under the fender. Since the car has a single electrical pump (at the tank), I dropped a two-position toggle switch into the pump line such that in run mode power goes to the pump and in safe mode it lights up the seat belt reminder light (which also reminds me to switch to run mode). The switch is hidden and in reach of the driver. In 'Safe' mode, there is enough gas in the carbs to run maybe 90 sec - enough to get into traffic and stall out -- I prefer to pay towing to seeing the last of my beast.