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Deleted post due to " Foggy " memory....

I'm pretty sure the hose from the tank to the pump is 3/8" (10mm), and can be the cheaper low pressure fuel hose. Everything from the output port of the pump is 5/16" (8mm) HIGH PRESSURE for fuel injection, more costly but you've got to have it. You'll see the difference.

AirTex E8312 from Rock Auto = $60.79. That's what I've been using on my 76 280Z and they work just fine. It is however, very important to install a Fram G3 between the fuel tank and fuel pump as others have mentioned. These newer style pumps use a Ceramic Turbine to push the fuel. They are a lot more sensitive to small dirt particles than the old Vane type OEM pumps. Tolerances in a Turbine style pump are a lot closer than Vane style pumps.

You can buy from Advance online then use a coupon code and save some pretty good money. Usually I have it shipped to the store then go get it, quicker. http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-or-airtex-electric-fuel-pump-e8312/5772834-P?navigationPath=L1*14932%7CL2*14986%7CL3*15378 Coupon codes; http://www.retailmenot.com/view/advanceautoparts.com

It goes before the pump. Between the tank and the pump. Read this, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm

Holy moly! The OE pumps are $400 now. I paid $250 for my Bosch a few years ago, now they're Beck Arnely. http://www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-152-0253-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000CB32QG/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Nissan%7C67&Model=280Z%7C874&Year=1977%7C1977&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive

A Z-threesome sounds like a kinky tech session! Coming to a email inbox near you soon. Thanks for the quick feedback.

Gotta say... My Z keeps losing its pep. I keep tweaking the tune, but the old analog ECU just isn't doin' it. Most people would say it runs great for an antique car, but I know how a Z is supposed to run. Would love to drop in something with 1's and 0's! How's it coming, Len?

Oops... Didn't see page 2 of posts. Yes, your pump is bad! Hurray, you found the problem! Hope it's not too expensive. But at least it's an easy fix. I recommend a Fram G3 filter installed prior to the intake of the pump, so that it won't get jammed up with rust from the tank. I second Chas' recommendation for a Bosch pump -- quiet, efficient, durable. Great equipment.

Ha! OS Giken Super Lock part number NS046HA.

Good work finding your problem. Sounds like you will need a new pump. It looks like a bosch pump, but the end (not the end with the terminals) seems sharper. Bosch has a radiused end if that makes any sense. These bosch pumps are originally made for Porches and can delivery 250L/hr and 6.0barg pressure. If you can't find a original type from a wrecking yard than my choice would be a bosch. Google: " bosch Fuel Pump - 0580254044 " and you will find info on them. They use them a lot in Europe as an aftermarket replacement for all kinds of cars.

Sounds like your aftermarket pump is shot.

I just may have resloved the engine stalling/stuttering issue. I was looking under the hood and saw that the gas line going into the fuel rail was pressed up against the top of the engine. I thought that perhaps when the engine gets to normal operating temperature that the hose was getting hot via contact and causing the gas to become vapor. So, I moved the hose. It was tied down and I slid it through the tie a bit so that it 'floats' about 2" off the engine. I also saw that the cable going from the distributor to the ignition coil was a tad loose on the ignition coil end. So I made sure that was firmly in place. In any case, I have been driving it for about 45 minutes now, in the neighborhood and in city, so a lot of starting, stopping, and moving slow, and it ran like a champ. Next I will run it on the highway and see how it does. I'll look more into the electrical issues later today. Thanks everyone for the help!

Hi silversurfer, Welcome to the club. Your engine stall issue sounds a lot like the TIU is failing when it gets warm. Typical for these old cars. The next time it does it. Pull the center HT lead out of the dizzy and hold it a couple of mm of the manifold and get someone to crank the engine. You may want to do this test when its cold and all working as it should. That will give you a good base line to compare to. I used and old spark plug. That way the gap in the plug would always be the same during the tests. A second check you can do is simply check the tacho. If it starts bouncing around, its a good sign something is wrong with the ignition system. Here is a link to my TIU conversion. There are other ways to fix a failing TIU like fitting a 280ZX dizzy, but I chose to keep the original look. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/49588-fitting-a-hei-module-in-transistor-ignition-unit-1977-280z/ I don't think the lights are related to your engine dying problem. More of a coincidence. Here is a link to the Factory manuals. A must have when working on these cars http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html The Fuel injection supplement on the xenons130.com is more complete for the efi even though its on the s130 site. See the S130 EFI manuals section. Early version. http://www.xenons130.com/reference.html Chas