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  2. Also here’s a video of my car running with the fpr hose cut and the pump off 03792E8C-1B58-43D2-B07E-DED329CDBFD1.MP4
  3. I do have a new master cylinder, but I installed it a while ago, it may need to be bled again, as far as the pushrod goes do you mean use the original push rod? I still have it so it shouldn’t be an issue but right now it has the reproduction push rod in it
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    Yes, I think this is possible!! I'm going to check with the wife to see if anything is going on and make a trip down with the Yellow Jedi.. 😉
  5. If you installed a new clutch master cylinder you need to swap the pusher rod (the metal bit that goes into the cylinder) because the reproductions are shorter for some reason (this was my problem). Also be sure its fully bled.
  6. Today
  7. No, I haven’t had the chance to mess with it anymore I’ve been pulling doubles everyday in addition to replacing the clutch and flywheel, hopefully I can figure it out today. Now I’ve got another issue as the clutch grinds going into gear even though it’s brand new
  8. Any amount you change the cam height affects the timing. Slimming the head a small amount I think advances the timing a small amount. This can be adjusted for with the 3 dowel jokes on the sprocket, or an adjustable sprocket. The limit of this is the amount of chain Slack the tensioner can take up which may be somewhere around. 75mm for the standard tensioner. Cam tower shims aren't the only remedy for it though - there are alternate tensioners you can get (from Kameari for example) which can handle more Slack in the chain.
  9. I think that number is in the "Rebuild" book. Mine is boxed up right now otherwise I'd find the page. The MSA page says 7 thousandths, but they don't give a reference for the number.
  10. Your instincts seem on target. Fuel pressure should climb rapidly to the FPR limit. Back (front) firing out of the intake manifold is the "lean mixture" sign. Fuel pressure leak-down means that either your FPR or your pump check valve are bad, or leaky injectors. A good system should hold pressure, at least 20-30 psi for weeks or months. Are you using starting fluid just to be sure that timing is right, in between your fuel system troubleshooting?
  11. This new listing, a '73 240Z, on BAT seems to have different style of hood, not previously discussed here. It has corner reinforcements without holes/with angled hood release handle. This '73 is a very nice original example that is going for strong money after one day, https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-datsun-240z-95/ Here's a pic of the hood. Edit, My mistake this hood is a #2 production as described by @kats in post #13. @Mike B's '72 has this same hood, post #12 of this topic from Aug '07
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    @Mike any chase we will see you there.
  13. I would suggest as little as possible to clean the head up. I’ve heard .030 inches is about all you can cut without affecting the timing. Maybe someone else knows the exact number. .010 to .015 is where I would try to stop. Guy
  14. Sonoma Raceway, or more widely known as Sears Point Raceway and Infineon Raceway, is one of Northern California’s “old-time” tracks with rich racing history that stretches back to 1968. Often overshadowed by Laguna Seca Raceway, it has long been the … Continue reading → Read more at JNC Magazine
  15. Yes, with a spark plug wire pulled and grounded during cranking I get a good fat spark. The ignition system is stock. The fuel pressure gauge I have only goes to 21 psi, it is mounted between the fuel filter and the fuel rail, the needle doesn't really "peg" it creeps up. I checked it again last night after posting and it is taking even longer to get up to the peg and then the pressure releases.
  16. I have not seen any measurements fro the pedal adjustment. Did you follow the procedure in the manual for adjusting the pedal and slave cylindrr rod? Don't assume. Do the checks and tick of the list. A blocked port in the master cylinder or insufficient pedal travel can cause a lot of hartache. Push the pedal to the floor and note where it touches. Measure from that point. I made some screenshots of the 72 FSM for the slave cylinder and the 77 FSM for the pedal adjustment. I find it a little clearer. Though it helped (me) to read it twice😁.
  17. I grew up in the area. They are actually right across the street from Yamaha's corporate headquarters.
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    Join us on June 29th as the Z car club of Washington and The Shop present the 50th anniversary of the Z. Z Car Club 50th Anniversary Cars and Coffee Sat, June 29 2019 10:00 am - 1:00 pm The Shop, 2233 6th Ave S, Seattle, WA 98134, USA Hey All, The Shop is being kind enough to allow us to host a Cars & Coffee event at their facility this Saturday at 10am-12pm. feel free to show up a little early and enjoy breakfast at Derby Restaurant. There will be plenty of parking available for anyone that wants to come down. There will be some spaces reserved for "featured cars" we are still looking to fill a few spots so if you are coming down with a Z and want to be featured let me know. we currently need a 260z, 280z and Z31 300zx. We will have spaces open for others especially one off's (convertibles, slick top Z32, 2+2 280z) or 100% stock vehicles of all generations. https://www.facebook.com/events/the-shop/z-cars-coffee/2283399661926602/ RSVP if you can. Thank You, Stoph Johnson ZCCW President 206-579-9990
  19. I'm In the process of back together my A/C system and have a few questions. First off, I have the drier that the flare fittings are right next to each other and not offset like the 33286 drier. Since I have this type, can I just use a direr from a 280zx? And if I do will it have the pressure switch? Second, I believe it will be easier in the long run just to use R134a so what all needs to be done to prep for this? I have no clue what the state of the system from my car was because the PO took it apart... Also I went ahead and picked up another full system off of another Z to replace some of the mangled and seized copper tubes.
  20. I took a video and everything in the trans seemed to be working so I removed the O-ring that came with the switch and cleaned the bulb connections in the rear and now it works like it is supposed to. I'm honestly not sure why it wouldn't work before.
  21. The compression rod controls longitudinal toe compliance. Are you sure the nuts on the body-side compression rod attachment are torqued?
  22. I know the Clevis pin is good replaced it same time as I did the MC that being said i did not check the pedal itself I'll take a peak up there tomorrow ty
  23. Tbh I have no idea i bought the car out of Seattle and the guy I bought it off of seemed like he never did any of his own work so i believe it was the owner before him that wouldve done any of it and I'm not able to contact them... side note dont let appendicitis keep you from being happy.
  24. Get a friend and have them push the pedal while you watch the fork move. Use 1/4, 1/2, and all the way to see if pedal = fork movement. Don't assume that new aftermarket parts are good. Many of us have had reman parts fail right out of the box. Examine the clutch fork and the way it sits on the pivot carefully. You might have some other odd problem at the fork. People often get the fork seated incorrectly but usually figure it out right away. Diseazd, please stop chewing your toe nails. You might get appendicitis.
  25. Core plugs. My thought on the coolant passage flushing is that you're just blowing out stuff that settled in a dead zone. No flow. You should get the "How to Rebuild.." book. Lots of good stuff in it. Also, ponder what, exactly, happens when a head is milled. Bottom alone, or top and bottom. What about cam tower alignment if the head is warped? Aren't they out of alignment also? https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-1151
  26. Really strange, I was hoping we could find something causing your problem, It is quite perplexing.
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