Replacing All Large Opening Seals & Hatch Small Seals

[HusseinHolland]

10 hours ago, jfa.series1 said:

 

The full-length bulb-shaped seal is my own invention 12 years ago. I did not like the OE-style side seals just as you don't. I sent them back to MSA and purchased a second top seal and used sections of it as side seals to get a full coverage with a bulb-shape seal. Look closely at my pic and you will see the two ends butted together.

Dang - I should have kept the bags for the side seals. Not sure they would take back sub-components of a full kit though. I'll just have to buy another top seal & copy your approach.

[HusseinHolland]

Took out the left side 1/4 glass/frame & replaced the inner, outer & forward vertical seal. That was a bitch! Getting the frame pressed back in place to align the retaining screws was quite a challenge . I had to do it twice, as the first time the top lip folded inwards instead of out.

Frame sections all cleaned, I painted where the securing plates are welded, as there was small amounts of rust. The forward edge of the main frame I sanded back & repainted. scrubbed the glass clean of all sealant residue

opening needed a little cleanup, but no paint issues

glass & seal set into frame, outer seal glued to frame

top outer seal lip properly situated on second attempt. Liberal amounts of vaseline helped to get it to slide into place

forward vertical seal

that takes care of the driver's side openings, with just the seal inside the driver's door window frame to address

the end cap was gone from the scraper molding, so I modified a trim panel retain clip to fit

Edited April 28, 2023 by HusseinHolland
typo

[HusseinHolland]

I didn't lube the upper outer seal to make sure it didn't cling to the hatch edge then closing and the seal bond had not fully dried, so it pealed inward - I found out today. We have rain forecast pretty much from now until Monday, so I removed the hatch, stripped all the adhesive (which messed up the new paint, since I clearly didn't let the paint cure/harden long enough) and repainted the upper trough/lip. I'm leaving the paint to harden until Monday when the rain gives over, then I'll re-glue the outer seal, and leave the hatch off until it's clearly properly bonded. I also bought the black super weatherstrip adhesive instead of the yellow I used previously.

taped up the opening, then covered the car with 2 breathable covers

 

[HusseinHolland]

Got the hatch outer upper seal rebounded with the black super weatherstrip glue. I'm leaving the hatch off for another day to make sure the glue is fully set this time

side panel buffers in

I was going to do the cowl seal, but there was a little surface rust along the inner lip, so I took the cowl off & got sidetracked cleaning off the surface rust in the cowl & used Rustoleum Rust Restorer on it. Really hard to wire brush up under the cowl under the base of the windshield

looked much like the underside of the cowl prior to cleanup

slamming the door with the new seal caused stress on the mirror mount - the plastic inset broke. I made a SS plate to reinforce it, glued the original piece back in place, and added a retaining clip to join the two

retaining clip

reinstall

 

 

[HusseinHolland]

Primed & painted the cowl, and prepped the underside of the cowl panel

have to make new foam pads for the cowl cover to replace these

 

 

Edited May 3, 2023 by HusseinHolland

[HusseinHolland]

Finished the cowl paint & put the new cowl cover grommets in place. Tomorrow I can glue the cowl seal in place

[HusseinHolland]

Worked on the wiper transmission this evening, after finishing the cowl cover. I also glued the cowl seal in place. For that, I added closed cell foam where the original was clearly chafing and/or vibrating & wearing the paint

I stripped the wiper pivots, one required filing in order to remove the bearing housing, looked like it had been twisted with vice grips

I then removed all the rust on the shafts, and heated & oil-blacked them

 

acid dipped the bearing housings to remove rust from the steel (WTF??) bushings

after that I lubed all the pivot bushings (brass) and greased the bearing housing with marine grease. There were originally felt collars around each linkage pivot to retain lubrication, only one remained & that fell apart when I cleaned everything up.

 

just have to chase the mount threads in the bearing housings, then I can mod the motor mount plate for the Honda wiper motor, rewire the unit & install it all back in the cowl & close that up.

[Patcon]

How do you do this heat and oil black thing?

[Racer X]

11 hours ago, Patcon said:

How do you do this heat and oil black thing?

He may be using this method:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_oxide

[HusseinHolland]

22 hours ago, Patcon said:

How do you do this heat and oil black thing?

 

10 hours ago, Racer X said:

He may be using this method:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_oxide

Actually it's easier than that - I heated the shafts until lightly glowing red , then dunk in used engine oil bath & leave them until completely cool. Makes a hell of a smoke cloud.

New upper bulb seal arrived (@jfa.series1) , so I finished up the hatch outer drip rail sealing. I used a short section of washer fluid hose to join the bulbs

[HusseinHolland]

Question for those with more experience on these - I ordered what I thought were the door glass channel seals  (6 & 7 in the catalog) - 

80810-N4500

80811-N4500

but.... those are not glass seals, & I can't figure out where they actually go. Are they supposed to attach to the outside of the door frame? I don't think there is a ridge in mine that these would fit into.

 

The actual channel seals seem to be in 2 parts (7 & 8), but I didn't see 2 parts in the listings I've found -  80335-N4520 is what I have ordered, looks like I also need to find 80336-N4600, not having much luck with that

[Yarb]

Aren’t they the seals that adhere to the top of the frame itself?