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240ZBUILTBYME

240ZBUILTBYME 1971 240z HS-001063 Project Sheena

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    Exciting new development today! I have sourced a Subaru R180 LSD diff for my car! 

    I have a classic z specialist here in Perth. bought from one of his other clients who was selling it. 

    Apparently all I need is a front flange and backing plate from my stock 240z diff for the drive shaft join and some adapter plates to mate the 240z halfshafts to the diff. These adapter plates are made out of Japan and will be on order soon. I may also need a different moustache bar but we will see. 

    Will come out cheaper than the Quaife option hopefully. Still pricey though.... but can you put a price on not lighting up your inside rear wheel mid corner?

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    On 9/8/2020 at 7:32 PM, grannyknot said:

    If it's gas Mig you'll pick it up quickly, it's very forgiving, however Datsun sheet metal is not, it tries to blow holes in itself. Start with small tack weld for the panels, jump around letting them cool and eventually join them all up.

    If you spray with compressed air, you can cool down tacks quickly and make a lot faster progress - FWIW (for what it's worth).

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    1 hour ago, inline6 said:

    If you spray with compressed air, you can cool down tacks quickly and make a lot faster progress - FWIW (for what it's worth).

    This can be a mixed blessing. Sometimes cooling welds can cause shrinkage and warping of panels. I use to do that but I have gotten to where I move around on the car. I come back when the welds are cool enough to touch

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    6 hours ago, inline6 said:

    If you spray with compressed air, you can cool down tacks quickly and make a lot faster progress - FWIW (for what it's worth).

    I have seen lots of people do this in videos

    5 hours ago, Patcon said:

    This can be a mixed blessing. Sometimes cooling welds can cause shrinkage and warping of panels. I use to do that but I have gotten to where I move around on the car. I come back when the welds are cool enough to touch

    Good point patcon as its the cooling of the weld that causes the "pulling in" of surrounding material. I guess the cooling effect would increase the amount of shrinkage relative to a weld that has cooled naturally? I guess if you are doing a small area and are unable to move around slow enough you could just work on multiple patches so you can work your way around slow enough? Would be interesting to know which method the "experts" recommend!

    I have also seen videos where people use a hammer and dolly to stretch the metal as its cooling to counteract this shrinking, have either of you tried this? I feel like it might be easy to over beat the metal and end up with a high instead of a low?

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    The engine removal process looked pretty normal.  Many of us have been there.  Letting air out of the tires will give you a little more room.   Wait until you put it back in and can't the get the tail of the transmission lifted up to fit the back mount.

    The transmission looks like a "B" model, Not "A".  You can tell by the shifter area.  It's not "monkey motion".

    image.png

     

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    22 hours ago, Zed Head said:

    The engine removal process looked pretty normal.  Many of us have been there.  Letting air out of the tires will give you a little more room.   Wait until you put it back in and can't the get the tail of the transmission lifted up to fit the back mount.

    The transmission looks like a "B" model, Not "A".  You can tell by the shifter area.  It's not "monkey motion".

    image.png

     

    I actually had the front of the car up on stands when I took it out, my theory was that it would create a better angle to work with but I think it made it harder... lol oh well live and learn! 

    Yea definitely a B type. I believe my car was an automatic originally, so PO must have transplanted this and the engine in as it’s a 72+ gearbox and mine is a early 71. Not too fussed though! 

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    So these are the kameari Subaru R180 diff to half shaft adapters. They are really pretty.... 8) so the splines go into the Subaru diff and flanges onto stock halfshafts. Chuck your stock z diff front face flange and diff backplate onto the Subaru R180 and hey presto 240z LSD for under 2k! 

    My z man has to check the internals on  the Subaru diff to make sure everything’s healthy and then it’s a done deal!

    98056A6E-C2AC-48EF-AEF9-9AA99DD0FBAE.png

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    My panels arrived from KFvintagejdm! Well some of them... did the post on Viczcar and has lots of photos which took me ages to upload so if you would like to check out my thoughts on the panels here’s the link. 

    1EB011E5-5369-4BF2-A297-3A9F27086A8D.jpeg

    https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/20081-kfvintagejdm-replacement-panels-initial-review-and-quality/

     they’re very high quality, I’m especially impressed by the floor pans!  

    Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME

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    5 hours ago, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

    My panels arrived from KFvintagejdm! Well some of them... did the post on Viczcar and has lots of photos which took me ages to upload so if you would like to check out my thoughts on the panels here’s the link. 

    1EB011E5-5369-4BF2-A297-3A9F27086A8D.jpeg

    https://www.viczcar.com/forums/topic/20081-kfvintagejdm-replacement-panels-initial-review-and-quality/

     they’re very high quality, I’m especially impressed by the floor pans!  

    Thanks for your review of the parts from KFvintageJDM, it's very timely as I might need some of the parts they offer. Regarding your question, on viczcar, about the fit on the outside edge of the front seat rails, mine has about a pinky finger sized gap.

    20200915_070542.jpg

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    10 hours ago, CanTechZ said:

    Thanks for your review of the parts from KFvintageJDM, it's very timely as I might need some of the parts they offer. Regarding your question, on viczcar, about the fit on the outside edge of the front seat rails, mine has about a pinky finger sized gap.

    20200915_070542.jpg

    No problem cantech! Will update the thread once I start fitting panels which won’t be for a bit. Ahhh thanks for the photo I thought it might be a stock gap!

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    Welcome, the guys on here are a fantastic resource and it seems like many of them have forgotten more about these cars than most will ever know! Curious on the manufacture date? Looking at your car it has series 1 seats and console with throttle and choke, but the tool bins are in the back floor and the body vents are on the rear pillars along with a 280Z hood (or would that be a 260 in the rest of the world). I guess these things could be different for ROW RH drive cars.

    Congrats on the kid and another on the way, the Z will be good for that too. "Kids in the back seat cause accidents, accidents in the back seat cause kids". Looks like your taking the back seat out of the equation.  😁

    Wilkes

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    50 minutes ago, w3wilkes said:

    Welcome, the guys on here are a fantastic resource and it seems like many of them have forgotten more about these cars than most will ever know! Curious on the manufacture date? Looking at your car it has series 1 seats and console with throttle and choke, but the tool bins are in the back floor and the body vents are on the rear pillars along with a 280Z hood (or would that be a 260 in the rest of the world). I guess these things could be different for ROW RH drive cars.

    Congrats on the kid and another on the way, the Z will be good for that too. "Kids in the back seat cause accidents, accidents in the back seat cause kids". Looks like your taking the back seat out of the equation.  😁

    Wilkes

    hahaha Thanks Wilkes, excited for the little one but worried about how much time it will take away from my project. will work it out

    to be honest I don’t know how anyone ever restored a car without forums! The knowledge of a lot of the members is unreal and without them most of the novices (including myself) would struggle, so I thank my lucky stars for the wonders of the interwebs! 

    Yes my car is a bit of a Frankenstein! So my chassis is a series 2 I believe being a early 71 according to the vin research I have done. Can’t comment on seats but highly likely they were added in. Bonnet is a 260z I believe, Tbh im not sure what happened with the 280z here as I have never seen one advertised before, you may be right that they just came out as 260z’s. My engine is a L20 and my gearbox may be a 260z which was added in or my car was originally an automatic. As I’ve read that gearstick impacting on trans tunnel could be caused by both auto chassis or 260z gearbox in 240z. 

    I’m kind of glad that I don’t have an original unmolested matching numbers car as then I would feel compelled to preserve it and do an original resto. With my Frankenstein I don’t feel so bad turning it into exactly what I want. A mildly modded faster than stock, better handling,  originalish looking 240z! 😎

    Ryan

     

    Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME

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    On 9/17/2020 at 10:11 PM, 240ZBUILTBYME said:

     

    Looks like you have plenty to do Ryan. The rust will clearly be a challenge, but it isn't an impossible task. The rust on the firewall and roof will be the biggest challenge, as there isn't replacement panels available. Fabricating the needed parts will challenge your creative abilities for sure.   

    I see you are taking a methodical approach, and planning things well. Your videos are nicely done too. For photos, you can create a Flickr account, upload you r images there, then post them anywhere using the hotlink feature. Free Flickr accounts are limited to 1,000 photos, the unlimited "Pro" account is around $60 US (cheap). A great way to host and share your pictures.

    I think it is awesome that there are younger guys like you taking an interest in the first gen Z car. You will ensure these cars will be around for many years to come.

    Looking forward to following your progress!

    Cheers,

    Racer

     

     

     

    Edited by Racer X
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    9 hours ago, Racer X said:

    Looks like you have plenty to do Ryan. The rust will clearly be a challenge, but it isn't an impossible task. The rust on the firewall and roof will be the biggest challenge, as there isn't replacement panels available. Fabricating the needed parts will challenge your creative abilities for sure.   

    I see you are taking a methodical approach, and planning things well. Your videos are nicely done too. For photos, you can create a Flickr account, upload you r images there, then post them anywhere using the hotlink feature. Free Flickr accounts are limited to 1,000 photos, the unlimited "Pro" account is around $60 US (cheap). A great way to host and share your pictures.

    I think it is awesome that there are younger guys like you taking an interest in the first gen Z car. You will ensure these cars will be around for many years to come.

    Looking forward to following your progress!

    Cheers,

    RaceR

    Cheers racer! I often look at how much work is ahead of me and feel a bit overwhelmed! Literally every part of the car needs to be renewed! But I am not in a rush and I want to do things properly. 

    Yes I’m not too fussed about the panels I can get replacements for, like you say the roof and cowl/firewall is the major worry. I may outsource this work.

    thanks for the feedback on the vids. Plan to keep improving quality.

    cheers for the tips on the photos I’ll look into it.

    I was in love with 90’s Japanese sports cars as a teen, as I grew a bit older I developed a love for classic cars too, bit of an old soul 🤗 so why not combine the two! 240z in my mind is the original Japanese sports car, was just very lucky to buy this car a decade ago for what now seems like a very cheap price. And as you say want to save this car for future generations to appreciate and enjoy. 

    Cheers Ryan 

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    8 hours ago, CanTechZ said:

    @Racer X, regarding firewall replacement panels, there is a guy in the UK making them. He goes by Auto Panel Solution and can be found on FB.

    https://www.facebook.com/Auto-Panel-Solutions-418351785395614/

    Here is the firewall he makes, lucky for @240ZBUILTBYME it's even for RHD

    65908469_449707258926733_727375277335773184_n.jpg

    Cheers Cantech yeah auto panel solutions out of the uk makes some of the panels no one else does, I haven’t looked at pricing though. Don’t think  I’ll need the whole firewall, may get away with patches. We’ll see, is handy it’s RHD though!  I’m looking at getting his rear valance section. 

     

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    10 hours ago, CanTechZ said:

    @Racer X, regarding firewall replacement panels, there is a guy in the UK making them. He goes by Auto Panel Solution and can be found on FB.

    https://www.facebook.com/Auto-Panel-Solutions-418351785395614/

    Here is the firewall he makes, lucky for @240ZBUILTBYME it's even for RHD

    65908469_449707258926733_727375277335773184_n.jpg

    Do they make  left hand drive version?

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    2 hours ago, Racer X said:

    Do they make  left hand drive version?

    I reckon he would do, easy enough if he already has a template made up. Just reverse everything 

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    So little update but I’m excited about this one! My car didn’t have an oem steering wheel, I know.... who the hell doesn’t want the oem steering wheel?! It’s gorgeus! Was looking into steering wheels and was interested in the jdm comp steering wheels msa sell, after talking to a few people who didn’t like them, it didn’t seem worth the amount of money + shipping costs. So after looking at the prices of oem wheels in the US and picking my jaw up off the ground....I managed to source a pre loved oem steering wheel from my local z guy! For a very reasonable price too! 

    Here it is! Little rough, but with a bit of TLC should come out nice! 

     

    5BB273C6-40F9-4D54-9904-55E64B614445.jpeg

     

    Ryan 

    Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
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