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In Search of Early 240 SU Full Linkage Diagram


DannDZ

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I've rebuilt my carbs and am now reinstalling the pair on my '71. I should have taken better pictures! I am having difficulty properly installing all the the linkages.

This thread has some good diagrams and even better pictures. But they are for the 510.

 I have the Factory Service Manual, I've search a number of forums but have not seen a picture or exploded diagram that will allow me to ensure that it is reassembled correctly. 

Can someone point me in the right direction?

Thanks

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1 hour ago, CanTechZ said:

Not pictures but here is a video of my engine bay, 7/70 car

This looks helpful. I should be able to step through it and get some good ideas. My challenge is connecting the parts that stayed on the car with those that were removed with the carbs, that is the linkage between the two carbs. 

BTW, you have a great looking Z. The video will be a good reference for detailing my own engine compartment.

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1 minute ago, CanTechZ said:

Thanks and your welcome. Let me know if you need any specific pictures, I haven't pulled the engine yet. 

A few pictures of the area between the carbs would be very helpful. In particular how the pieces that connect from the throttle mechanism that remains on the car and the linkage between the carbs is what I am looking for. 

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53 minutes ago, DannDZ said:

A few pictures of the area between the carbs would be very helpful. In particular how the pieces that connect from the throttle mechanism that remains on the car and the linkage between the carbs is what I am looking for. 

No problem, will do when I get home tonight. 

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1. Fast idle screw is fine. You only need it to hold the rpms ~ 2000 to 3000 when tuning.  It saves you from getting a friend to  sit with foot on pedal.

2. Balance screw should be adjusted when the above #1 is 2000 to 3000 and the engine is hot.  Look up tuning procedure (The only time when you use this screw)

3. Opener adjuster should have ~1mm gap when car is tuned and hot. Leave it where it is for now.

 

More helpful info.

 

  1.  Plug the PCV input or connect it to the crank case vent pipe. Leaving it open will cause a very fast idle.
     
  2.  Make sure the throttle plates are resting on the throttle screw stops at idle. The push rod between the carbs should exert NO force on the throttle plates at idle.  You leave a little slop in the linkage by changing the length of the adjustable long push rod that runs along the firewall near the wiper water hose.

 

Edited by 240260280
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