Picking up a 1977 280z 6 Hours Away. Tips?

[BayAreaZ650]

On 8/25/2019 at 11:54 AM, Dave WM said:

have you noted excessive play in the steering parts? IIRC the inner tie rod is only one flavor now, so if you go that route make sure you get the correct outers. What is the symptom that you are attempting to correct with the replacement parts?

Everything is original. The ball joints and tie rods are leaking, the bellows are torn, and the shocks are blown. 

Im worried about adjusting the tie rods. I don’t necessarily know how to do it.

[BayAreaZ650]

Just to let everyone know, America’s Tires is having a 10% off rebate for Labor Day on tires and wheels.

I will be lowering my car on Eibach springs and was wondering if 205/60/15 would fit with the Z being lowered about 1.5 inches. It seems as if the majority is going with 205/50/15 on lowered Z’s.

[ensys]

 

Mr.650:

Given the car's age and condition (by now you realize the mileage is likely more like 130K, right?), and since you figure to perform tweaks that will require extensive disassembly anyway, it would be wise to rebuild all of the front suspension, replacing all the joints, and probably some of the bushings

Helpful tip: whenever available, always use joints that can be serviced (and do so regularly). "Sealed for Life" guarantees a short one.

Just an observation...

PS: I can't say exactly how much I've lowered my '77, but I've been quite happy with 205/65 15s for quite some years now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 28, 2019 by ensys

[BayAreaZ650]

16 hours ago, ensys said:

 

Mr.650:

Given the car's age and condition (by now you realize the mileage is likely more like 130K, right?), and since you figure to perform tweaks that will require extensive disassembly anyway, it would be wise to rebuild all of the front suspension, replacing all the joints, and probably some of the bushings

Helpful tip: whenever available, always use joints that can be serviced (and do so regularly). "Sealed for Life" guarantees a short one.

Just an observation...

PS: I can't say exactly how much I've lowered my '77, but I've been quite happy with 205/65 15s for quite some years now.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

You make a good point. Might as well go through all the components while it's disassembled. What suspension components are you using?

[ensys]

 

Mr.Z650:

Well, since you asked...

Disclaimer: these decisions are highly subjective and depend upon one's personal vision of use. I chose to continue the Z's role as a driver, biased toward open road work. Clearly, not a "boy racer" solution.

For joints, I used names (like Moog) that I know and that provided service ports, i.e. "grease zerks", to provide safe operation and extended service lives. I replaced the ball joints, strng. rod ends, and top strut bearings, whether they needed it or not (last front end re-build was about 100K mi. ago (none actually "needed" replacement, thanks, I reckon, to regular servicing)).

I replaced the old KYBs with new KYBs because they worked well with good control, lasted a long time, and remain very cost-effective. Interestingly, these were not used up yet either.

New rubber bushings all around (particularly on the compliance rod ends, as I think some "compliance" is important here on a road car), with the exception of the lower control arm's pivot bushes. Urethane here because that's all one can use with the adjustable pivots.

New rubber boots on the struts, and bellows for the steering rack.

The top strut bushes (snubbers) did not require attention.

I kept the original springs as they were not compromised by age/usage, and I like the one coil cut I put on them about 100K mi. ago.

That's pretty much it, I guess.

Of course, all the suspension pieces were cleaned and re-coated for preservation prior to re-assembly.

All now good to go for another 200K mi.

That was my approach.

 

Edited August 29, 2019 by ensys

[240260280]

Outer tie rod ends are easier than ball joints to replace.  Just a nut at one end and a small ball joint at the other.  Don't be intimidated. If you can change the suspension parts you can easily do the steering parts. The only trick is to match the length of the new rod with the old. Counting threads may be helpful if the rods are similar.

 

FYI: The trick to doing a suspension is ensuring it is loaded with the car's weight before tightening to spec.  To do this simply work on one corner and  install all parts loosely loosely (with the car on jack stands) Note: do not fit sway bar endlink hardware yet.  Then put a jack under the suspension corner you are working and jack until that part of the car lifts a few mm off the nearest jack stand. Then torque all nuts and bolts. 

The Tension/Compression rod must be snug but still free to swing up and down otherwise, if too tight, it will load your suspension. You should check this before connecting the free end to the control arm end.

To do the sway bar, finish torquing both sides as per above then have the car on jack stands and put jacks under both front control arms/ball joint area  to lift them up so that the endlinks can be fitted.  Sway bar end links  are hard to install with one side hanging.

 

Edited August 29, 2019 by 240260280

[BayAreaZ650]

On 8/29/2019 at 3:10 AM, 240260280 said:

Outer tie rod ends are easier than ball joints to replace.  Just a nut at one end and a small ball joint at the other.  Don't be intimidated. If you can change the suspension parts you can easily do the steering parts. The only trick is to match the length of the new rod with the old. Counting threads may be helpful if the rods are similar.

 

FYI: The trick to doing a suspension is ensuring it is loaded with the car's weight before tightening to spec.  To do this simply work on one corner and  install all parts loosely loosely (with the car on jack stands) Note: do not fit sway bar endlink hardware yet.  Then put a jack under the suspension corner you are working and jack until that part of the car lifts a few mm off the nearest jack stand. Then torque all nuts and bolts. 

The Tension/Compression rod must be snug but still free to swing up and down otherwise, if too tight, it will load your suspension. You should check this before connecting the free end to the control arm end.

To do the sway bar, finish torquing both sides as per above then have the car on jack stands and put jacks under both front control arms/ball joint area  to lift them up so that the endlinks can be fitted.  Sway bar end links  are hard to install with one side hanging.

 

Thanks for the encouragement! The tie rod ends as well as steering rack bellows will be here today. I’ll be tackling this project this weekend.

So far here’s what I have or will be doing suspension wise: new kyb shocks, Eibach springs, bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends and bellows. 

 

Is is there anything else that you suggest that I work on while I have the suspension out? Do I need to grease anything such as the part covered by the steering rack bellows? 

 

Also, I have some missing factory undercoating. What do you guys suggest to use to paint over it? Would truck liner spray paint work? Thank you!

[240260280]

bearings at the top of the front struts are worth getting.

also the ball and socket tension/compression kit does wonders for steering through corners and bumps

[ensys]

 

I have always used the same product as the Factory (asphalt-based undercoat) because:

- It is an effective, durable, and workable undercoating that seldom separates from the substrate when properly prepped or painted.

- It blends well when patching or expanding the coverage.

- It maintains the look of originality.

- Application is nearly foolproof; just wash and let dry as prep. Also cleans up with WD-40.

- The good stuff is still cheap.

 

[BayAreaZ650]

Hi fellas,

Just a few questions regarding the suspension install. 

-How do you disconnect the rack and pinion from the steering rod? I removed the tie rod ends and the four bolts securing the rack and pinion. It’s steering rod is stuck on. Are there bolts to remove?

- How do you remove the rear struts? I see the 3 bolts securing the strut in the trunk area. Where else do I need to unbolt at?

- How do you remove the tie rod ends? It’s stuck on pretty good. I’m thinking having the steering rack out will help. 

 

Thank you!

[BayAreaZ650]

Hi everyone,

i finally completed the suspension upgrade for my Z! Thank you to everyone who gave me advice and tips on the install. Here’s a photo of the Z with 205/60/15.

Is there a trick to installing the Konig hubcaps on the front?

Id like to add the BRE spoiler and Air Dam. Does the Official BRE spoiler for better than the MSA spoiler with two bolts? Do you guys have a recommendation on where to get the Air Dam with Brake Ducts?

Edited September 20, 2019 by BayAreaZ650

[wheee!]

280Z Front Air Dams
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=83168&share_tid=62746&share_pid=582834&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eclassiczcars%2Ecom%2Findex%2Ephp%3F%2Ftopic%2F62746-280Z-Front-Air-Dams-%2Fpage__view__findpost__p__582834&share_type=t&link_source=app